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pop goes the scooby time for change


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2nd thread not a lot of dealings with this so wanted to know peoples thoughts

 

boxing day 2015 showing off to a family member huge plooms of smoke out the back and no boost!!

first thought turbo seals gone which is a pain in the !Removed! car recovered home and found oil spitting out the breather pipes!

Piston rings shot? drawing oil in on the stroke??

 

Either way im not confident in this engine, I almost gave up on it BUT seeing as I like it more than my misses I will be doing a complete rebuild including suspension running gear and engine!

 

time scale I reckon will be most of this year, I enjoy reading build threads so thought as im at it I might as well document.

 

1995 jdm wrx saloon

v2 with phase 1 inlet

apexi induction

direct earth kit

td05

turbo back de cat

 

engine will be coming out sometime over the next week or so as im working two jobs to finance living and getting my sube the way I want it.

im aiming for 400bhp mark, forged rods and heads, injectors, oil / fuel pumps, turbo (obviously) and possibly ecu swaps

 

Any advise - criticism general ha look what you did will be welcomed!

I wont be rebuilding the engine so does anyone have kind words about anyone in London herts area?

have had good dealings with neil foley and slowboy racing.

Cheers

 

post-5518-0-27821400-1452088826_thumb.jp

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Slowboy have a good rep down near brands hatch. If that's the same one you mentioned. Bit of a trek out but it's always worth travelling for the right engine builder.

Looking forward to your build like yourself love reading them and no doubt I'll be in your position one day. Car 1st missus 2nd. Don't tell her I said that [emoji12]

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Ha! secrets safe umongst us men!

yeah I used to live in west kingsdown, sre is prob nearer to me (watford)

people have told me to bow out of it like its cursed but I keep telling them I will win lol

engine out hopefully in the week and start from there.

 

Not a daily driver so can be off the road

 

this isn't a bottomless pit build ive took on a second job so 14hr days for me!

as they say ' a faint heart never won the fair lady'

:D

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Worth travelling for a decent one. As most folks know scoobyclinic do all my work and I wouldn't go anywhere else. You'd be ten times closer than some of their customers as well ;) lol

 

As far as what you have done i'd pick a tuner and get a spec and price sorted and stick with that. Ringing round your gonna get 18 different answers some will be too cheap for the work, some will spec somethign that isn;t right for what you want etc etc.

 

You also need to have the damage assessed to find out whats needed, if the block is damaged then it's gonna be a very pricey job.

 

Also need to decide if your gonna stay 2.0, go 2.1, or even 2.5.

 

2.5 would be my choice ;)

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totally agree with everything you just said, Scooby clinic are now in the midlands no? motor is still running I recovered it home as soon as it happened hasnt dropped all its oil just burning off.

I do need to do some homework and find the comparison costs between 2.1 and 2.5 as that is what I really want, I understood that a forged 2.0 / 1 would handle 400hp? it will depend on how deep my pockets get or how long I can stand staring at it sat idle.

 

Question: A later 2.5 would need a complete new loom ecu?

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Yeah based up at chesterfield mate. I wouldn;t drive it if its that nackered.

 

forged 2.0 will easily handel 400, for road use a 400bhp 2.5 will walk all over a 2.0 due to the low down grunt of the 2.5. I just went for a 2.0 to a 2.5 in my type r and its a very different drive, even without the turbo running lol

 

Cost wise will be massivley dependant on the damage. If block is shot then cost for a 2.5 vs a 2.0 prob wont be huge difference depending on what can reused, if block is ok rebuild will be alot cheaper.

 

Ecu wise depends what you want to throw at it, alcatek or syvecs would be my choice

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When you say damage do you mean to the engine casings (block) or internal damage as its holding its fluids and idling all be it abit rough but cranking and firing ?, if im to have a rebuild I would do all the bottom end, crank if need be so as long as the short engine is ok then its fairly straight forward?

ecu wise im under the impression a z4 will be mapped for a 2.1 for correct mix where as a later engine will need a stand alone?

 

Appreciate the wisdom tidgy

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The piston rings could be scoring the bores of the block if they are damaged, only takes a split second and one rev to damage them if your unlucky.

 

If part of the piston ring has detatched where has it gone? has i been crushed up and gone into the cylinder? iof so has it damaged the valves and the heads? etc etc

 

untill a full engineering report is done to ascertain whats damaged and not you wont have a full picture, it could have done a ring land, could have done a piston itself, etc etc 

 

At the min all you know is its burning oil and theres oil where it shouldn't be.

 

 

full stand alone ecu system, if your having it rebuilt then id go that route so you can sack the maf off etc 

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Gutted that you think the engines gone but glad you're sticking with it [emoji106]

Have you checked the spark plugs for oil deposits or done a compression test (to make sure it's fubar'd )

If it's a early 95 it might have a closed deck block which are good for big power (with the right internals)

Cdb's are normally identified by the #### marks on the modine under the alternator

it's a slippery slope and if you've read my build thread you know I'm not lying lol .

Easiest way to make sure a 2ltr ,2.1 ltr or 2.5 ltr engine will fit into a v2 phase 1 scoob. Is to use v1 to v4 heads as they will bolt directly to your v2 inlet manifold ,auxiliaries and loom .

I'm unsure if the 2ltr heads need machine work to make them fit a 2.5ltr due to the bigger bore pistons but they will go directly onto a 2.1 . Well once you've calculated the headgasket thickness to achieve the 8.5.1 ideal compression ratio .

You'll ideally need to add a 6 speed conversion ( £1500 + fitting) or a 5 speed ppg box (£2k + fitting ) to your shopping list. As my classic 5 speed ate 3rd at 330 ish hp .The later blob or hawk 5 speeds have been known to run 400hp but it's fairly close to their limits .

If you're lucky that there's not too much damage to your bores, a over bore ,a set of 0.5 mm oversized forged pistons and newage sti rods mated to a standard crank would be the cheapest 400hp build option (sub £2k )

If it's not broke .....upgrade it

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