Help needed car won't start

[Swino]

Hi all got a slight problem my car has decided it don't want to start anymore was driving running fine parked up come out next day and won't start changed fuel pump checked spark pulled injectors rails and started have fuel coming through have spark but still nothing all fuses are fine even tried some easy start but still nothing running out of ideas any help would be good car is a v2 import with alkatec ecu running maffless I've tried the original ecu still no joy 

[Scoobyghost]

Import Impreza? Any CEL? Sounds like Cam or crank sensor. I'm assuming it turns over, it just wont catch?

[Swino]

Yh it's an import and no cel light I've checked and it has no codes stored Yh it turns over just won't fire up 

[savage bulldogs]

Have you definitely got spark ?

As ghost said, check the crank sensor plug (under the alternator) and cam sensor plug (near the oil filler neck) .

If either 1 of those isn't giving the correct reading the engine will turn over but not start .

Could it be a imoblizer issue ?.

When you put the original ecu in did you reset it and check for codes . As the self code check function doesn't work on some aftermarket ecu's .

Even if it doesn't start with the old ecu it might be worth a check to see if it gives a code .

[Mark D]

Try turning over while spraying intake cleaner into the intake to eliminate fuel problem.

When my friends classic didn't start because of immobiliser, it would fire up then turn off with check engine flashing so might not be that

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[Mark D]

All fuses?

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[Mark D]

Or the other way round, try pulling fuel pump fuse then turn the engine over a couple of times. My friends old Nissan would flood if started for a couple of seconds when cold then turned off!

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[Swino]

Deffo got spark I did spray some easy start it didn't start but did see fire in the intake lol all fuse are fine I have a Clifford alarm which turns off once I press the button and then the dash lights come on so I no that's fine just ordered a cam sensor looking for a crank sensor but hard and expensive to fined 

[savage bulldogs]

Just check the plugs are not corroded on both sensors and that the engine loom has good earth and no breaks in the insulation.

Maybe try the old ecu ,reset and check for codes using the classic self code check function

As the cold damp weather does tend to bring out the electrical gremlins.

[kayzarh]

I think I have a spare crank and cam sensor, but it should be easy enough to test the sensor to see if it's bad! Get your multimeter on ohms ASAP ;)

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[kayzarh]

If you be a ninja, there is no need to remove the sensors, the cam and crank sensors can be tested the same way! Go for it, takes no time to do at all.

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[Swino]

I've just got a new cam sensor gonna put it in now see if I have any look if not I'll test the crank sensor fingers crossed 

[Swino]

well cam sensor didn't sort it and now the Battery is going flat from cranking so much even changed the the temp sensor for ecu while I was there as was told that could cause it still noting 

[Swino]

getting 1040 ohm on the crank sensor and 1530 ohm on the cam sonsor

[kayzarh]

that seems off, according to the spec, the crank sensor seems way off.  dont even have my damn multimeter so i cant even test the spare ones i have.

if youre getting fuel pressure, checked for spark, and the crank sensor is okay, its either then a really bad short/bad ground or the timing may have slipped, bless us with your opinion @savage bulldogs

please, dont go around buying parts for jokes!!!

if the sensor is bad, the reading WILL be bad,

[Swino]

Yh I've got fuel pressure and spark do you know where the main earth points are as could take forever trying to find them in the dark I've only brought one part the cam sensor as I've got another classic which I've been taking parts off but to be awkward Subaru changed the cam and crank sensor after my car 

[savage bulldogs]

Few things to check .

Whip the plugs out to see if they're covered in fuel , which they should be if you've got fuel but no spark .

Vac line to the fpr , if you've got fuel is it the right pressure .

Plugs from the coilpacks connected properly.

Have you got spark on all cylinders ? .

Passenger side rear , to the back of the inlet manifold is the main engine earth location. It might be worth checking the condition of the connections on each end of the engine loom . 1 by the Battery the other is near the boost solinoid bracket (grey plugs ) .

Have you tried checking for codes on the old ecu ?

[Swino]

Thanks I'll check the earth points and pull the plugs Yh I've tried the old ecu and no codes stored it has the same fuel pressure it's had since I went for my map can't remember off top of my head but think it's around 3 bar or psi can't remember which been running fine ever since I've got spark on front two cylinders as they were the easiest coils to get to so would have thought it would run on 2 cylinders atleast but I'll take the rest out and check might just put newage coils on while I'm there as I've got them sat here 

[savage bulldogs]

The newage coils won't just plug in ,you have to solder the pigtails and bypass the igniter.

If the igniter has already been bypassed the classic coilpacks will have a very weak spark and could be the issue if so ?

I ment if the vac line to the fpr was damaged it could affect the pressure maybe?

I'd have thought it would have at least shown some attempt to start on 2 cylinders but just taking the plugs out drying them and cleaning them, might be enough to "unflood" the bores ? .

I assume you can smell petrol ?

Hope it's a cheap fix and it does seem strange that it's just "stopped working "

[Swino]

Might sound dumb but whats the igniter? Yh can smell fuel had the Battery off all night and on charge going to get plugs out this morning and fit new ones as I'm not sure when they was last changed might just leave the newage coils until it's sorted 

[savage bulldogs]

The Only dumb questions are ones that you don't ask imo, bud. I didn't know classics had a igniter untill I researched the newage coil pack conversion .

Early Classics create a high amp spark via a igniter behind the boost solinoid bracket .which then looses current as it traveles through the engine loom towards the single coilpacks on top of each spark plug.

This needs to be bypassed when fitting newage coil packs as the newage ones have a low amp signal going to the coilpacks. Which is converted to high amp by the coilpacks themselves directly on top of the spark plugs. This gives a stronger spark due to not having to pass hi amp's through the engine loom (less resistance ) .

If it was running fine before ,I'd try to get it running again before "changing" anything . Once it's running again either give classic coilpack conversion a google or scroll through my build thread for the pics of coilpacks with pigtails and there's a link with a how 2 .

[Swino]

Ok mate I'll leave it till after going to get the plugs out tonight been so busy at work just not had time been playing on my mind all day what it could be do you no what the compression should be on each cylinder going to do a test while plugs out just to be sure left Battery off all night and on charge so it's got plenty of power 

[Paul_JJ]

What was the initial issue with the car not starting? Did it crank the engine at all? Was it that it started for a second and cut off then? Or was it completely dead?

I had a faulty fuel pump it did start for a second only then it would just crank... Replaced that but don't forget that the fuel filter should be replaced as well. have you tested the fuel pressure? My bet it's either fuel related or alarm related. Also I've read some faulty maf sensors might result to the same issue, however you said you don't use maf on your ecu, have you checked your MAP sensor then? And last but not least - replace the starter motor may be???

[Swino]

Hi mate it started for a second then died it has done it twice in the past but always started the second time I put it down to the cold start on the ecu I've changed the fuel pump as I had a new one here that was my 1st thought as I had one go on me before I've got fule pressure as I've got a snard fpr with gauge I haven't thought about the map sensor tho could that cause it? I did plug the maf back in with the old ecu to see to see if it was cold start but no luck 

[Swino]

Still not running swapped map sensor boost soliniod all the stuff on the bracket on the drivers suspention tower still no look starting to pull my hair out now spoke to Clifford to see if it could be something to do with immobiliser but they don't think it would be as I have fuel spark and starters working ran out of idea now any more help guys