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Featured Replies

hi guys

My Forester has been standing on the drive for around 6 weeks, mainly while I did some jobs on it.

During that time the car hasn't been started or moved and the battery has gone flat, so I've removed it for charging.

I'm aware that once the battery is reconnected that there is a learning 'process' that the ECU will need to go through to enable it to re-learn it's idling parameters.

My concerns are for the engine itself.

  • Having stood for this length of time will it be ok to 'just' start it up again (taking into account the re-learning process)
  • Is there anything I can should do to mitigate any potential rattles/wear during the initial start up?

As always your advice is greatly appreciated.

 


How long ago was the oil service?

 

You can disconnect the crank sensor or cam sensor before trying to start the car. It will allow the car to turn over but it won't start. It'll help to get a little burned oil circulated.

  • Author

Thanks for the reply Scoobyghost.

Oil and filter are brand new, changed them while the car has been standing.

Are the sensor connectors easily accessible?

  • Author

Should have said that the engine did run briefly once the oil and filter were replaced (oil filter topped up before fitting etc.) but realistically hasn't run for around 6 weeks


6 weeks is nothing, just start it and let it idle and warm a little before driving .

on an impreza you can fairly easily access the cam sensor and just unclip the connector to it, my guess is the forrester is similar. I'd do that and crank it for 10 seconds to make sure oil pressure is good, then reconnect and fire it up. 6 weeks shouldn't be too much of an issue though in truth. It may be a bit grumbly till it warms up and might be worth just restarting the engine when its warm but other than that should be fine.

  • Author

Many thanks for all of the replies so far, all very helpful.

Car up on axle stands at the moment, expected to be back on it's wheels at the weekend, so will post up again when it's running.

 

Just unplug the fuse for the fuel pump[emoji12] quicker and easier, turn over till oil light goes out, put fuse back in and fire up

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Pop the crank sensor off is the usual way as there's no chance of it firing up if there's a bit fuel left in the rails .

 

Crank sensor plug (in tidgy's pic) is easy to get to and cuts ignition spark so it won't start but will turn over . This helps get the oil all round the engine to avoid any dry start up damage 😉

  • Author

Thanks for the updates.

One more question before I try to start it up?

I've not had the car that long, but the way it starts seems to me to be a bit 'old school'.

What happens is this:

Without touching the accelerator, turn the key, engine starts. The revs then immediately start to rise to say 1500 rpm (like an old school choke would). As the engine warms a little (or you gently blip the throttle) the revs start to lower and settle nicely when the engine is warm (or you drive the car).

Is this normal?

In contrast, my Octavia Scout (2008), just starts and immediately settles at 900rpm which is what I thought the Forester would do. Done diagnostic scans previously and there are no faults registered.

Again any advice welcomed.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

 

30 minutes ago, nidgep said:

Thanks for the updates.

One more question before I try to start it up?

I've not had the car that long, but the way it starts seems to me to be a bit 'old school'.

What happens is this:

Without touching the accelerator, turn the key, engine starts. The revs then immediately start to rise to say 1500 rpm (like an old school choke would). As the engine warms a little (or you gently blip the throttle) the revs start to lower and settle nicely when the engine is warm (or you drive the car).

Is this normal?

In contrast, my Octavia Scout (2008), just starts and immediately settles at 900rpm which is what I thought the Forester would do. Done diagnostic scans previously and there are no faults registered.

Again any advice welcomed.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

 

Completely normal

  • Author

Thanks again for all of the replies and advice.

The car is up and running again now :-)
Removed the crank sensor connector, turned the engine over 10-15 seconds. refitted the crank sensor connector.

Turned it over again, started almost straight away, no rattling, sweet as a nut.

Only thing to add was that after removing and reconnecting the crank sensor, the engine warning lamp stayed illuminated and the cruise control lamp was constantly flashing.

After the car had fully warmed up,  I stopped and restarted. Engine warning lamp stayed illuminated and cruise control lamp continued to flash.

Stopped the car, connected the ODB reader, showed 1 fault - the crankshaft sensor. So reset it and restarted the car.

All good again now.

Out of curiosity, why did the cruise control lamp flash?

Car isnt designed to stand for long periods so it may well do funny things initialy. as long as it doesnt come back on then your fine.


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