savage bulldogs

V7 wrx sti type uk engine refresh

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Well as most of you know I've bought another another scooby project , yeah yeah i know i haven't finished the classic project yet

 

i (probably lol ) won't be keeping the bug and definitely won't be selling my 94 sti .

 

So a mate bought a low mileage, with 2 owners and good history 52plate bug wrx sti type uk about 2 yrs ago

 

Unfortunately a previous owner had hidden a mild crank rumble and even after spending a fair bit on maintaining and mapping it's gradually got worse . Although it's a nice clean example, it was probably worth more in bits than whole scoob with a knocky lump .

 

He didn't want to see it broken , so i decided to buy it and rebuild the engine , to save a fairly rare uk bug sti from the scrappy in the sky

 

I've decided to do this thread solely through tapatalk to save me uploading pics to my tablet , so you'll have to bear with the pics being on seperate posts .

 

So heres a couple of pics of the new edition to get started and i'll post more as i go

 

 

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It's got a few mods but i intend on keeping it standard as possible due to it only having 77k and 3 owners .

B.c coilovers .

Strutt brace .

Intake pipe .

Samco hoses.

Rcm lightweight pulleys and flywheel.

3 port boost solenoid.

Ecuteked bob rawl map .

 

And deffis ,but they might end up in my v1sti .

 

800 miles before i bought it the bug had some major maintenance done too .

Exedy clutch .

Graham goode uprated oil pump.

Full oe cambelt kit and new water pump and it came with a bnib oe raditor in the boot

 

Seeing as the bugs sti standard forged avcs engine is capable of 450hp i intend on keeping the build to a fairly standard spec too .

 

Made a start ripping the guts outta the bug

 

Tmic and air box removed 5fdbbaabae06a0d12e2522ac0e1adb5a.jpg&key=ee524b1e30e148d13e11810ad621d9cbcccf5d33336f8d0a78fb6ca3c4b6cfd89a4da64e2b633f154130899e6b27c653.jpg&key=369c040c96a87d5773c3c32de40e39b77d8cfda31214cd13bdbb5c5a6b18c33d

 

 

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I left it overnight once the Rad and downpipe were disconnected as i wanted to do a compression test and check the bores with a endoscope before removing the engine b0c49ad54d66e678c75060c918f68cd3.jpg52712a47b36d3cb93c741d65ce6ac927.jpg

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The compression test came back ok with 133psi across all cylinders but due to the depth of the heads , all i could see in the bores was the piston sizes ie a or b , which is pretty usless seeing as that info is already stamped on the top of the block

Guess i'll have to wait until the heads are off to see bore condition, then 6ffc1b60e32924bad93d42c0b5931080.jpg8a12229338a08227d93adf4e3fbde42a.jpg

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Once I'd removed the clutch fork pivot pin, any remaining coolant pipes, vac lines , fuel pipes , gearbox and engine mounting bolts. I took the p.s pump off the block with the p.s lines still attached , so i didn't get oil everywhere or have to refill /re bleed the p.s system .

Once the engine was out i removed the new clutch so i could fit the engine onto the engine stand . c2c9bd9ad28edd57a60a99f40714aaf9.jpgfdac2a6360df2e7c0dbf77eb3316ed3e.jpg

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Removed the coolant tank and air con pump , then disconnected all wires from the engine loom to the block and took note of all oil breather pipe routes . Kids old paddling pool has been a life saver , mrs would go skitz if i got oil on the patio lol c7939cfccaa68b772f8a2d153b97840b.jpg&key=e42614199aa542fe8c6b75ef811b93a367d3236b61f1731ea706c550005127bd718570d56df7484cc6aba80e1ae9f976.jpg&key=32ca02d8b1e79327bc01a786327bcd0199ab90e73a4d4308e3213c5ab5ddbcf7

 

 

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Ive only spotted the 1 minor oil leak from cylinder 1's spark plug to cam cover gasket and a fairly big leak from either the oil separator plate or rear crank seal (i'll get back to that a bit later ) otherwise it looks like its a 77k fsh lump .cb63da5730ee6bc1324e462d6968996d.jpgd7840516ec157498d66f57d353d483f3.jpg

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Basically once everything that connects the inlet to the block can be unplugged , then the whole inlet with fuel rails, injectors , engine loom ect can be lifted off in one piece.

 

Removed heat shields,to get to the head exhaust outlet studs and took the headers off , then undone the turbo coolant and oil feed /return pipes . Removed the turbo , turbo support brackets and up pipe in one piece too .popped the cambelt covers off to have a peak at the avcs pulley set up before lunchtime .e1f5a086fbcca95a6c17ca4e84419818.jpg&key=d17bde0271e3a95270fcd4b12a5a996834ec53f1710fbfa50479048bb1ceaf3a13a904910011ad13f2992f1867ff2581.jpg&key=61f44eb2817fdc7e7f5918b3a7edb2fa668b9bfb66e23d904800b12a5f716c70e9b56c5832fda3da6c02ce7a2a182c9e.jpg&key=96a8ba6cb778f0547f2abe9aad03c592d0edaf31c9fef358126aa77f39dfa3df

 

 

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Once the engines fitted and run in , take it to attowes and get the map tweeked /dyno health check . take it to a few shows early summer and work on the v1sti's whilst its off the road .

When i sell it probably depends on if someone offers me the right money , to cover the car , build parts and my time .

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7 minutes ago, savage bulldogs said:

Once the engines fitted and run in , take it to attowes and get the map tweeked /dyno health check . take it to a few shows early summer and work on the v1sti's whilst its off the road .

When i sell it probably depends on if someone offers me the right money , to cover the car , build parts and my time .

Hopefully by then I'll be in a position to get back into the Scoob game :D

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Hope so bud , i hate not having boost n burble in my life .

I've got 5 people intrested in the bug already and i haven't even got the block to the engineers yet .

Best pull my finger out 🤣

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Locked the flywheel to remove the crank pulley and center cam belt cover , which shows the new full belt kit , water pump and uprated oil pump

Unfortunately, i forgot to take a pic of the cambelt locking tool you need to lock the left bank pulleys to remove the belt without letting the left bank pulleys move . Once the belt was off i removed the 4 cam pulleys and the cam covers to expose the cams .189a3a3aa4c2ba3222ea06cb42e9b813.jpgd26ef8848298bf3e954130f9d5b6dd29.jpgeba8244608c29f3b23cc59bad1dbb372.jpg

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With the cams , pulleys and avcs solenoids out you can finally get to the head bolts and remove the heads .

Its a semi closed deck block and the bores are in that good a condition that you can still see the original hone marks . Not that a visual check is enough to ok the bores but its good to see that it was obviously the original 77k fsh lump 02c325be93eb8f03e4a13ce994baf91f.jpg02495957c8eb614e817c364669a21a8f.jpgd0cebb5a9c89e1bb1f099733755048b8.jpg

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Once I'd removed the rcm lightweight flywheel i could see the oil leak (i mentioned earlier) was coming from the rear crank seal. It had obviously been leaking for a while . It doesn't make sense to me why it wasn't replaced (or at least cleaned) prior to flitting the new clutch

Good possibility that the leak being so close to the rear crank journal would cause a dip in oil pressure or oil level at some point . Which might have starved the main bearings of oil and caused the crank rumble in the first place .

Cleaned the back of the block , took the sump off and spotted my first bit of fubar'd bearings stuck to the side of the oil pickup 436857d792982e82702c1b941f58a3db.jpg0e05bc34b115c6d89940a0170aa6c26a.jpgdf959be2fec159fc852fae288ae9b3f9.jpgfe346ad2879699c6934564612a7c4759.jpg

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You had to remove the access bungs to get to the wrist pin clips , take the outter clips off the wrist pins ,then use something long (que bbq skewers ) to tap the wrist pin out from the other side .

As the bottom of the bores have "webs" which mean the pistons have to be disconnected from the rods in order to split the block halves to get to the crank af2504b9a51da29262466c2b116670df.jpg67ce706429578d0e27f5f3bb33ad0980.jpg9db137da0c3123948bc670f04e7a35ba.jpg660be5e58c22720646a2375f41d6d9ce.jpg

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Once I'd split the block and removed the crank the cause of the rumble was plain to see ,fubar'd main bearings .

Although the bearings had taken the wear and the crank measures up ok , i won't be taking any chances and will be fitting a brand new crank 25ace1b869ba92bbc1ac3b53791a635f.jpg67ffb8843e40df55e92c6818ca438e40.jpg

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Luckily I'd pulled the engine before the beast from the east dropped a blanket of snow in suffolk. Having another scooby came in handy , as the snow didn't stop me dropping the block halves off at pat segars (my trusty engineer)

I'd originally planned to leave the heads in one piece, due to them being quiet and the engine not smoking , so valve stem seals and seats were ok . But the urge to fully refresh the engine took over and I've decided to (at least) re seat the valves and fit new stem seals

They'll also go to the engineers for a pressure test and a general check over once i collect the block halves
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Block half faces have been checked over, bores have had a light hone (to bed the new rings in) and the pistons have come up well .

Looks like im gonna have to start getting my shopping list together soon 0615e3c199da2f1a8ff9923b7815662a.jpg

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The avcs Heads have the usual visual crack between exhaust valve ports and spark plug hole . Although it's almost impossible to find a second hand set of avcs heads without cracks (very common issue) and the 3 other scooby engine builders ive spoken to , said they looked fine .

I dont want to take any chances so i had my engineer pressure check , lightly mill the faces and recut all the valves in both heads . Which cost me a extra £300 on top of the normal face work but it's worth it for piece of mind for me .

Looks like I'm starting to run outta excuses not to upset the wife and order all the rebuild parts


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Great write up so far buddy those heads look exellent you'r engineer has made a really nice job of them, when is the rebuild starting? 👍. I've just started to rebuild my v1 engine so should hopefully be back together and back in soon then a quick mot and off to see mr forrest for a map 😁👍

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Still haven't ordered the parts yet as im getting AS performance, icp and R.M performance to quote me and price match first . So I'm not too sure when I'll start just yet ,As i need to keep costs down but won't cut corners

 

I'd originally planned to get it fitted and start the running in process by the end of April but as it gets closer to the warmer months i tend to get a higher work load and struggle to find spare scooby time

 

Could always just turn my work phone off until may 🤣

 

Thanks for the comments chaps , hopefully this thread will help familiarize members with the ej207 and give the new owner piece of mind seeing it's been built properly .

 

 

 

 

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Finally Ordered the build bits this morning so once they're here and everything has been through the engineers hot wash again , i can hopefully crack on with building the engine

Due to the rear crank seal failure the bay and gearbox bellhousing are quite oily , I'd been putting of cleaning everything for a while .

But after a couple of hrs and nearly a bottle of machine cleaner , not only does the bay look a bit better, but the new clutch has got a much better chance of not being contaminated by all the oil
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