ROSSCOSM Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 36 minutes ago, Tidgy said: not always, check engine light is as reliable as the 2.5 hahaha Haha 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattiekane Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Being a 2004 sti I think it will have a 2ltr ej207 , if it's the same as the v7sti ej207 they're a very capable engine in standard guise (mid 400hp) . So just a standard refresh with maybe stopper headgaskets . I'm not saying that your being ripped off but if I'd like to know why it's running on 3 cylinders .... no spark , fuel or compression are the only 3 reasons a cylinder won't fire . If it's a compression issue then I'd understand why a rebuild has been suggested but the other 2 might be a much cheaper fix . I Do eco what Matt said and find it difficult to believe that it's been running on 3 cylinders , passed a mot ,not got a constant eml and you haven't noticed . Phew, it's not just me then! Genuinely thought I was loosing the plot or had missed something!Loud pipes save lives 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 While I was typing , James did post up that the compression test showed red on that cylinder. So unless the compression tester wasn't sealed , the results do show either head gasket, ring or valve damage . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROSSCOSM Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 16 minutes ago, Scubzjames said: Well it was a bit of a shock but they did the tests and i saw the results of the compression test and they were in the red :/. It struggled through emissions and that’s all I know . Are you suggesting the garage may have it wrong or? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Even the best mechanics in the world make mistakes but judging from the word around here scoobyclinic seam to be pros. Hope its notto pricey to sort mate good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubzjames Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 Vehicle came in for a service, upon starting the vehicle we found it to be low on compression on a cylinder, a cylinder leakage test was carried out and we found number one cylinder to have 95% leakage, this required engine removal and strip down.On strip down we found an exhaust valve on number one cylinder to have melted on one edge, all the valves were removed for inspection and found the seats and valve face to be badly worn with the exhaust valves fairing the worst, the exhaust valves will all need replacing but the intake valves can be refurbished, the valve guides were measured with the exhaust being worn out of specification, the intake guides are on the upper limit of specification but will put the down for replacement as the valves are on the lower limit.On strip down of the short motor we found big end bearing on number one cylinder to have worn through to the copper, this has caused some light scoring to the crankshaft, the main bearings also show signs of wear with number four main bearing showing scoring to the Shell and crankshaft surface, this is to be expected with this mileage and age.The cylinder bores were measured and found to be about 0.001 of an inch out of round at the top of the cylinder, the bores are still serviceable and will require a cylinder hone and some new piston rings.Some of the cylinder head bolts were badly corroded and will need replacing, I would recommend upgrading to ARP head studs as the price difference isn’t that much more.The clutch is worn down to the rivets and the flywheel has hot spot damage where the clutch has been slipping, they will both need replacing.Basically the engine is just worn out and needs a full refurb.Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 If cylinder 1 hasn't been firing due to burnt valve causing a lack of compression, it would cause big end 1 to fail . As that piston would've just been flung up n down the bore by the crank , instead of combustion and heat 😒 Sounds like you really need to get your car serviced and mapped by someone that knows what they're doing . As no disrespect to you James but by the sound if that report , you've been driving around with a melted valve and shot to bits clutch for a while bud 😏 I Do still find it difficult to believe that you didn't notice the lack of power and noise it would've been making . Best of luck with the rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubzjames Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 How come you think it needs to be mapped after the build??Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidgy Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 5 minutes ago, Scubzjames said: How come you think it needs to be mapped after the build?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk i would always have it mapped after an engine build, bear in mind your changing the whole internal airflow of the engine, the bores will be slighlty enlarged due to material removal during honing etc etc not to mention you wouldn;t want to be runnign the map from a duff engine on a nice new one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubzjames Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 Ah right I see Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Has it been mapped already ? Any mods , airflow especially? Generally speaking valves ,pistons ECT will only melt if a engine runs lean , as more air than fuel equals a hotter combustion. If it's due to fuel starvation ie cornering hard with low fuel levels or weak fuel pump /faulty system it's normally cylinder no 3 that fails (As it's last in line to get fuel) Plus Personally if I spent over £3k getting a engine built , I'd want it mapped or at least dyno health checked to make sure I protected my investment. It Would be good practice to find out that if there is a fault (that caused the original lump to eat itself ,)that the fault not still there 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubzjames Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 It’s completely standard bar a cosworth panel filter in the original filter box. Not been mapped before as far as I’m awareSent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubzjames Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 Kev did mention that it could of been run on normal unleaded fuel before I had it. I also use 99.It’s only had 1 previous owner so she might have put bad fuel in all of its life [emoji2369]Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubzjames Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 Always use 99 **Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tidgy Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 37 minutes ago, Scubzjames said: Kev did mention that it could of been run on normal unleaded fuel before I had it. I also use 99. It’s only had 1 previous owner so she might have put bad fuel in all of its life Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk once the damage is done, its done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattiekane Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 So, what's happening with it then buddy?Loud pipes save lives Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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