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impreza 1998 wagon non-turbo


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hi all

recently i had the chance of buying a impreza wagon 1998 green auto 2.0 non-turbo....so i took the chance..not bad condition overall,good inside,engine sounds good and only done 97000 miles but it does have the dreeded rust factor mainly on rear end,top of shock towers,arch to wheel bowl,driver rear sill section inner and outer,bit on arch lip,passengers side is also sill area and arch lip but not as bad....today i found the fuel filler pipe is also gone to rusty heaven also...here is a few picture of it,,,but theres more to come when i start getting in it

its a scooby😍

 

thanks nic

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well,,not as bad as i thought is was goner be.....few piece to be made up and also reinforce the jacking point,,,inside i also so good,light rust in places but spray kurust down it and all is covered nicely but il do another spray worth now its gone off and managed to get a air filter 3d printed air intake adapter(pic to follow)

 

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well,had a good look at it today and im thinking of cut into the shock tower to gain access,weld up the inner section that is no longer there hense why its rust out and come thru,wheel spray has done the damage

or is there another way of done it? oh and its on both sides but driver side baddest of the two.....any advice from members on this,im here and waiting

anyway had more fun re-sealing the roof bar,fairly easy to take out and put in all sealed up now and water tight,used some butyl sealent,,good tacky stuff that dont dry out

roof lining in and ready for finish off,,will leave rest of the plastics off till welding is done

 

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From what I have seen posted before your suggested approach is correct - cut a larger portion away at the panel to get access then repair, weld new panel in place once inner repair is completed - Trying to think who posted pictures of this approach??

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thanks jay762 😀

ive seen others on saloons do the same,cut into the tower to gain a better access to the area that need welding but first to make a brace/steady fixing...its the only way to sort out the rusty area properly and only way forward

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had a problem with rear window wiper motor,seized wiper arm spindle and strip teeth on main gear caused by stuck seized spindle,replaced that with good second hand one and now its fully working,new bushes for the new front arms have arrived,gave it a wash before bad weather came.........just the welding now to do and a fuel filler pipe to get also

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Making some good progress,  chap 👍

Although I can weld to iso standard , when my old v3 uk turbo rear strutt towers and arches disintegrated . I just scrapped it and bought a clean import Shell 🤐

So unfortunately cant offer any first hand advice but have read that cutting the strut tower from the inside , helps with access 👍

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  • 1 month later...

well, not much has happened since last month...sorted rear light custers with new sealent leaking now stopped.been buying few parts,lower front arms,ball joints etc......but been looking at the suspension legs,they are rusty but not leaking but on the look out to replace or re-new them.

so...if any one got full set of good useable suspension legs/or full set of coilovers message me please

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  • 3 weeks later...

not much has happened,few new spare parts have arrived,,mainly fittings and fixings,,its has been 22years on from new......took dolly out for a drive to go and pickup some alloy wheels...v1 wrx wheels 6x15" but in very good clean condition

as you can see had fun fun fun down a dirt road today aswel 😀

roll on spring so i get some welding done....only major part to do now

dolly dirty after subaru impreza turbo rims pick up...19-11-2020.JPG

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  • 1 month later...

Used to own a 1.850cc dolly with twin su's,  fun little car that went well 😎

Had a bit of snow in Suffolk too but not enough for skiddy snow scooby shenanigans 😏.

Project is coming along well , keep it up 👍

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  • 2 weeks later...

been reading posts regarding turbo engine and there problem ringland pistons...is that the same for non-turbo engines aswel? what should i be looking for,what are the common faults and what to watch out for

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13 hours ago, nictriumph said:

been reading posts regarding turbo engine and there problem ringland pistons...is that the same for non-turbo engines aswel? what should i be looking for,what are the common faults and what to watch out for

That issue only affects the 2.5 turbo lump from later on. The only thing yours might develop is piston slap when cold, which is nothing to worry about - my old '98 Forester has been doing it for about 10 years. It's now a farm vehicle and still runs ike clockwork at 180000 miles. Pretty much the same engine as yours, strong and simple, easy to work on.

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im looking at shocks and springs.....are these any good for my wagon?   ebay number 182046550330     maxspeeding rods coilovers

has anyone fitted these to a wagon....any advice

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Before going coilovers I would consider what you want the car for. Cheap units can be horrendous for a daily car where a higher quality set of aftermarket shocks and springs eg Bilstein, eibach combo, would give better damping and a nicer ride whilst still being able to push on if required

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No I cannot say that as I have never used them myself, I have read several pieces on the coilover topic though - for example BC have great branding and distribution but the lower end of their range can be harsh and 'crashy' over uk roads.

I have Cusco Street Zero A coilovers on my hatch which are a really good compromise between ride and control but they are not budget. I compare to a koni / eibach setup I had years ago which had the car like it was on rails but if you caught a pot hole you knew about it.

So dependent on budget and driving requirements I would look at a higher end strut spring setup vs lower end coilovers for a predominantly daily driver. If you plan to spend most time on a track more budget coilover options could be investigated due to smoother surfaces

 

 

 

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£200 pound for set of 4 coilovers or £1000 for decent set of 4 coilovers....its a no brainer really...why are they so cheap! compared to decent set,,,cheap set built to low poor quality..i might aswel stick with the crusty standard set on the car and clean,repaint them

trying to find good quality and affordable is getting really hard to find nowadays

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