oh and i have no heat in my car either, i cleared the radiator of radweld shortly after i got the car as i wanted to see if there was a leak just how bad it was, since i did this there has been air getting in the system, i re rad welded it just to see if that sorted the air lock issue which it seems to have done (new rad when i have spare cash) but i still can't get the car to warm up inside, i have just got in from messing about checking the flaps are all working as they should in the heater unit and they are, i can only assume its some kind of resistor that i spotted in the centre tube section i pulled out behind the glovebox, i have no idea what or how this would affect it just grasping at straws, and the wife called this morning to tell me her car was wheel spinning in the wet so she checked the tyres and found she has 2 bald fronts

:( always around this time of year. With the fire place Miggs I take it it's a new one or a modern one should I say. I would just try get the hoover on it clean all the dust out of it and check that the flue isn't blocked. But It sounds like over temp sensor is faulty, but worth trying to hoover it all out seen that happen a lot with it not being used over the summer same with the boiler that could be a number of things. Just as bad as cars :( 

the wife said she was gonna clean it the other week as the fake stones on the tp had got miss lodged, stones were straight so i assumed it had been cleaned, i did however drag the compressor out of the garage to give the inside of the boiler a blow out to make sure there was no crap in there, gave the fire the same treatment, fires fixed but boilers still not working, cheers for the advice though

Miggs have checked the fues for ur heater matrix on the scooby. Oh dont pull the hearter pipes from the dash that is there just to direct the airflow.

the heater matrix has a fuse? i just assumed it was always hot as it came from the radiator water and the flap just directed into the car as you turn the temp knob, i will go look at that in a min (looks at clock) maybe not, i have the school run in a min, also the part i took off that has a resistor looking thing is between the main unit in the centre of the dash and the fan unit on the passenger side, i looked on a my2000 matrix i have in the shed but that's only 2 pieces whereas mine appears to be 3, it could be mine is non aircon on the newer one in the shed had aircon, will check fuse while out, cheers pal, let you know shrtly

Ok, just checked the fuses and both for the heater are in tact, I did take the resistor looking thing out and cleaned the metal plate that was mounted to it just incase that had something to do with it, now with all this messing about I'm not sure what was causing the problem as today is the first time I have run the car since I filled up with radweld and it didn't seem to cure it but on the trip to school I've just had heat WOOHOO

Cheers for the help

sounds like a bad earth but a result all the same

 

wrt the boiler does it do the house hot water as well?

yeh it's hot water and heating, the hot water side of things is fine just the rads, when it's heating the hot water a blue light comes on to say it's burning, the heating brings up a C and the blue light, the C comes up saying the stat and timer are calling for heat but it doesn't fire, i'm going to drain the rad from the bottom this morning see if theres an issue elsewhere in the system stopping it, i joined a central heating forum, all was going well with the advice until i told them i open the from casing of the boiler (no major parts are exposed as it's a sealed unit) and blew it out with the compressor incase there was dust blocking something, i got a resounding "on that note i'm out of here, i suggest you call a boiler technician and get them to look at it before you hurt yourself" it's like i told them i'd lit a match to find a gas leak lol

I have had a 3 way valve motor fail on me in the past that stopped the system working.

 

Boilers are portrayed to be some sort of magical unit that a chosen few must touch - mine was getting noisier earlier this year, funds being tight I did a bit of research and discovered they are just like a smaller heat exchanger unit I had worked on before in the mob - the noise was coming from the exhaust fan which suffer from dry bearing shafts which stops the fan - no fan, no flow, no flow no fire up.

 

One whistle around with the vaccuum cleaner a blast of BG Products penetrating oil and all is peachy :P

Well if you are getting Hot water thats a good thing mean's it not completely fubared. Can your hear the pump trying to work? 1st thing I would check bleed it too. After that if it's still not doing anything move on to the diverter valve. And taking the case off is not a problem But I guess people worry in case they become liable or something. But as a guess diverter valve is stuck or not getting power to open.

The old boiler had a fan that used to seize over summer, quick lube in winter and worked a treat, then it started burning a dodgy colour flame so got a new install throughout 3 years ago, I have done some more hunting on the net and it looks like the pump unit that was also new 3 years ago and has a 2.5 year warranty is the issues, I was told as it's a gravity fed system to drain a ground floor rad, once done turn the heating on bleed upstairs rads of air and see if boiler fires, I did this and finally got an error code from the boiler saying no circulation which points at a duff pump, I think if I get one I could fit it myself, looks quite easy

With regards my car, I've ordered and recurved the new crank seal and cam belt, took the cover off and it's quite dry round the crank, took the rad out for a better inspection and noticed the oil return pipe looks like it's been previously repaired, badly, I've jet washed the entire underside of the car and all the areas with oil on, now dark so will take a look tomorrow, I'm gonna throw some more oil in and if it's not instantly visible I'll run the engine for a quick stint and see where it's coming from, as a temp repair until I find a new pipe what would he best do you think? A piece of radiator type pipe that can handle the pressure of some of that metal putty stuff, or maybe a combination of the 2?

Rad pipe should hold it as a temp no problem - I wouldnt like to risk bits of the putty going around my system possibly sticking somewhere else

I've used the putty on throttle bodies before and it sets like steel

Ive used it on wheels and casing but not on anything to do with a lube system though.

Yeh I'm starting to think again about the putty, will use some pipe I've got from various engines in the garage