tking_wrx Posted August 3, 2014 Posted August 3, 2014 I have asked this question on the forum already but j don't think j put it in the right category so here goes, since I changed the oil and fuel filters on my car yesterday and replaced the rear suspension i have had trouble between 4 - 6k, the car dives fine normally but when I put my foot down it feels like the car is hesitating and it keeps backfiring between these revs even whilst driving. Any help is appreciated.
savage bulldogs Posted August 3, 2014 Posted August 3, 2014 What year is it ? As if it's a classic have you done a self code check ? As you might have knocked a plug off a sensor (o2, maff ect...)
tking_wrx Posted August 4, 2014 Author Posted August 4, 2014 Hi mate, it's a 2001 bugeye, I have checked the plugs and maf sensor and they fine, when j first got the car it had a manual boost controller on so I reconnected it tk the electronic boost controller and put in a restrictor pill so may need to check the pipes where the restrictor pill is located. If the pipe is split would this cause the same problem (air leakage)? Thanks and sorry for rambling
savage bulldogs Posted August 4, 2014 Posted August 4, 2014 It might be spark plug condition/ gaps or spark plug leads or coil . As they would give misfire symptom with unburnt fuel causing a backfire . Vacuum leaks generally cause rough idle /holding back on boost as symptoms . Have you been using 99 ron fuel all the time ? As a change in octane can also cause backfiring for a tank or so (until the ecu learns)
tking_wrx Posted August 4, 2014 Author Posted August 4, 2014 Hi, thanks for the replies, I have had the car for about 5 months now and since I have had it I have used 99 Ron unless on the rare occasion where the petrol station has run out and I have had to put a bit of standard petrol in. Sorry for the silly question but can I test if it's the coils/lead breakdown? Thanks
savage bulldogs Posted August 4, 2014 Posted August 4, 2014 Not silly questions m8 just hope we can help you resolve it, tbo if it's a electrical fault you might be better off getting the ecu codes checked before replacing bits . I've been mapped for 99 ron fuel , but occasionally have to put lesser octane in to get by . I just don't "give it the beans " until I've filled up with the right stuff .so don't worry too much about that if it's not done on a regular basis with full tanks . Not knowing to much about your bugeye set up ... Have you got 4 plug leads from the single black coil pack attached to the inlet manifold ? If so can you borrow some leads off another mates scoob for a spin round the block ? Or individual coil packs on top of each spark plug ? If so check for cracks around the bolt holes that attach them to the spark plugs (as they're prone to cracking if overtightend ) and any arc'ing to the cam covers .
tking_wrx Posted August 4, 2014 Author Posted August 4, 2014 Thank you very much for your help, im taking it to a garage on saturday to get it tested and he thinks it will be the knock sensor so hopefully this will resolve it. I will keep you updated
tking_wrx Posted August 7, 2014 Author Posted August 7, 2014 Thanks for the welcome, no news yet, I am getting it looked at on Saturday
Nevell Posted August 8, 2014 Posted August 8, 2014 Individual coil packs on each spark plug on newage Check all the connectors on the coil packs ,check you haven't damaged the coil pack,s whilst changing the plugs ,to be fair if it only started happening since these were changed so go back through your steps , Hesitation is usually plugs or leads
tking_wrx Posted August 8, 2014 Author Posted August 8, 2014 Thanks for the advice, the plugs were done a couple of months ago and it was running fine then bug I will double check them just incase. Thank you
tking_wrx Posted August 9, 2014 Author Posted August 9, 2014 Update...so I went to the garage today and got the maf and knock sensor replaced and still no changed then noticed that the tee piece between the turbo, solenoid and actuator had melted so though thus was the problem buy when replacing it the garage do not have the correct pipes fir the tee piece so it's now repaired with reducers all over the place and still feels like it hesitates :(
tking_wrx Posted August 9, 2014 Author Posted August 9, 2014 Sorry for the bad grammar, im using a mobile and it keeps auto correcting.
savage bulldogs Posted August 9, 2014 Posted August 9, 2014 Have you done a ecu reset ? If not try disconnecting your Battery earth for 20 mins , but make sure you know your alarm will work afterwards (ie turn it off manually beforehand.
tking_wrx Posted August 9, 2014 Author Posted August 9, 2014 Hi savage, thanks for the suggestion mate, no o have not tried a ecu reset but I will give it a go 1st thing and hopefully this fixes the problem otherwise it will be the spark plugs and coil packs which will need checking. Thanks again I will let you know tomorrow how it goes
savage bulldogs Posted August 9, 2014 Posted August 9, 2014 Did the garage check the codes/reset your ecu ? If you're checking the plugs yourself and it's been miss firing one might be a slight different colour , indicating which cylinder is the issue . Its also Worth checking their gap and re gapping them slightly under standard . As boost is known to blow the spark out if they're gapped over size . All the best and hope it's a cheap fix for you fella
tking_wrx Posted August 9, 2014 Author Posted August 9, 2014 Thanks mate, I have been impatient and disco nested the Battery now so hopefully will find out in about 20 mins or so, no the garage did not plug the car in so no ecu reset mate. I changed the spark plugs about 3 months ago and was advised from eurocarparts that the gap is preset so just put them straight in and it was fine?
savage bulldogs Posted August 9, 2014 Posted August 9, 2014 No problem fella Gaps are normally preset but it's advised to gap them a bit smaller if you're running more than 0.8 bar of boost (remapped) I always check them just in case one's been dropped . It might be a cracked spark plug or coil pack . I'd still suggest to take it somewhere where they'll read the codes as this will give the best diagnosis
tking_wrx Posted August 9, 2014 Author Posted August 9, 2014 Ok mate thanks, I will leave the Battery si a connected, does it matter if I leave it overnight? And if this does not fox the problem I know someone who owns a garage and will plug it in for me.
savage bulldogs Posted August 9, 2014 Posted August 9, 2014 Only the fact that the alarm won't be on whilst the Battery isn't connected .
tking_wrx Posted August 10, 2014 Author Posted August 10, 2014 Hi, thanks for your help I have now reconnected the Battery and it's fine but I will change the pipework to the original for good measure. Thanks again
savage bulldogs Posted August 10, 2014 Posted August 10, 2014 Good glad it's sorted If the symptoms do come back get the codes read and that will hopefully let you know what's causing the problem.
tking_wrx Posted August 10, 2014 Author Posted August 10, 2014 Yeh mate I will do thanks, just one last question, when j reconnected the Battery I can hear a clicking noise inside the car?
savage bulldogs Posted August 10, 2014 Posted August 10, 2014 Is it still doing it ? Or was it when you first re connected the Battery ? If it was just when you re connected it was probably the ecu checking relays/solenoids after the reset
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