Siluro

CV Joint? Is the gaiter split? Do they knock on Scoobies when foobar.

Stay away from 2007 Hawkeye as the road tax is horrible

@Ryu44 that makes sense now you explained it. Forgot they have that cat in place

Think I like the MBRP Axle-Back but could I live with it as a daily. The 2.0 liter sounds harsher than the 2.5, has more of a burble in most cases.

Why do you have to swap out up-pipe out of interest (is only 2 liters cars)? I ask cause my Hawkeye is mapped but otherwise standard bar backbox and panel filter. I have the opposite issue, mine is too quiet.

Maybe cam belt tensioner

TBH if what I have read about them is true you will not be dissapointed other than the power. All have said it to be a very fun car. I guess it depends on your expectations.

My old Sport classic would run bad and have a slight miss fire if parked up for >1week. Every time after she got warm again it went away.

Is the GT86 that much different? Can you not test drive that to get a feel? I prefer the BRZ myself but I cannot remember seeing one in a long time. GT86 are more common but not that common.

Damn it, why have I never thought of that. My dad first showed me that when I was a kid but not the funnel upgrade.

I have seen videos on youtube where the knock is actually the Belt tensioner. Here is hoping.

You can apply that to the world. Cars are the least of our problems

Obsidian Black 32J has the flakes. I used to like black cars, !Removed! nightmare with swirls

https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/ Try them. I have had no issues with them. Give you an idea of prices.

22mpg town driving and 28 mpg motorway driving. To get 28 you have to stop yourself enjoying the car. That is for 2.5 Hawkeye wrx. Oil change every 3 to 6k miles your choice and depends on type of driving. 10k miles is min 2 oil changes. DIY under 100 quid. Cambelt £400 just for belt change more if you replace water pump (may as well) and all the guide wheels, tensioner etc. Tyres at least £100 per corner, foolish to skimp on tyres again my opinion. DIY is best option I have found cause even Subaru dealerships are clueless paid part swappers with no diagnostic skills or basic understanding of how the cooling system works. Unless you lucky and close to a decent garage. Plus it is way cheaper. For me tax is £535 and insurance £600. My post code kills my premium. I did 1000 miles last year due to lockdown which is >£1 a mile before I add fuel etc. Every year when tax is due I think about selling it. Then I realise what would I replace it with and then I drive it and forget the tax bill. Repeat every year. I would base all your fuel cost on around 25 mpg. I doubt a 2.0 will be much different, may actually be worse. If you treat it properly it will be fine. If you drive it and treat it like a 18 year old and skimp on maintenance cause you cannot afford this month it will bite you in the !Removed!.

One thing to remember is when taking a battery measurement you should let it settle after use. It should slowly rise a bit. Below 11 volts and it will start to sulphate, reducing it's life. Jumping is also not good for batteries as you can bend the plates, if you have to leave the battery connected for 10 mins before jumping or longer

In the UK it is illegal to leave a car running unattended. Maybe that why if an option elsewhere and not here.

No one has any pride in their work these days, grab your money and go.

Glad you won. Now the really hard bit. I won a case in tribunal, never managed to get the money though. Wish you the best of luck

http://opposedforces.com/

You said rad cap, should bleed from the Filler tank cap not rad cap. Bleed from highest point.

Rad cap on mine is just a release valve if the internal pressure gets too high. The filler cap is connected to the expansion/overflow tank. It adds when hot and sucks it back in when cold. Different to most cars I have ever owned.

On a 2007 WRX the cap with wings goes on the filler tank and is a 2 way valve. The Rad cap has no wings and is a one way valve. The have different ratings too. Not sure if that helps

I have been thinking about this and so far I gather that coilovers are generally overkill for a road only car. Plus what sort money you prepared to part with makes a big difference as always. I am interested to hear what the experts say or someone that has experienced coil overs vs uprated springs etc.. Rear sway bar seems to also be an easy quick upgrade.

Cannot beat a good wiper blade, these minor details become big details as i get older. Like seeing properly/ Sounds good will have to treat her to some.