Miggs

If you see any wet spots under the car, best way to check if it's coolant is dip finger and taste, antifreeze/coolant has a sweetness to it which makes it easier to distinguish from washer fluid or rain water

You can cook them in the oven you know, much easier, just don't forget they are in there lol

Without going looking under the car I can't remember which side it's on, it's not that hard getting the aux belts off though, I have an undertray for mine, it lives in the back garden so makes things easier lol

My first play with android was the wife's HTC sensation, I then got the S2 also, I too found it a bit of getting used to as the iPhone has less buttons on it and slightly different ways round things but I'm now on the S3 and my next phone is going to be the HTC one, awesome phones

Gambit, there are alarms that are Thatcham approved that you can buy and fit BUT the insurance company won't recognise the fact it's Thatcham approved unless a Thatcham approved installer fitted it, if you have a receipt then chances are you can find if the installer was approved by searching them on Google, insurance companies have them all on record so will know when you send them the receipt and discount the policy accordingly Davie, instead of a Clifford I would go for a viper, they are both made by directed audio but viper is the us version, the viper comes with a 2 way remote lcd pager so if your alarm goes off your fob goes off to tell you and you can control it from the comfort of your home (if your within the reach of it) if you have a turbo timer or remote start or plan on fitting them I suggest you clarify with the insurance first as some don't like them and will put your policy up, if you are wanting them and don't want insurance headaches then either Clifford or viper can be added to at a later date so the receipt won't state the add ons for insurance

Well the ones I had were depo lights and spkittable, I should imagine nearly all lights would split but without seeing yours I'm speculating, the glass is usually just bonded on with a strong silicone adhesive to the rear plastic housing so heating them up will loosen the glue and allow it to be split, I have said elsewhere on here about how to split lights using the oven

The plastic belt covers are easier to remove with the aux belts off, I've never done it with them on so can't comment

The better brake force you have the later you can brake into a corner thus carrying more speed into, plus you slow quicker so can get on the power sooner too A flex stopper stops the servo from flexing on the bulkhead when you hit the brake pedal, subies are made with thin metal so the bulkhead moves considerably when braking, a percentage of your pressing the pedal is lost through the flex, a stopper shouldn't cost more than £50 and you will be very pleased with the difference

I'll get him to smear it all over and take pics of us both writhing about filthy

You usually have to travel to find the right car, I havenever let distance put me off ffinding the right car for me

At least now the iPhone caught up a bit, when the 4 was out they were still a few years behind other phones with features, the camera was always well behind in the megapixel chart too

Try doing a quote with the car in the garage, then do the same quote with it out of the garage, mine dropped a few hundred when I took it out of the garage, if the car is hidden away a car thief can take his time, if it's out in the open he's got to be quick so as not to be seen With regards to alarms, car thieves will just walk away when they see a Clifford light flashing as it's one of the hardest alarms to get past, but that said they are the ones most prone to random alerts The only steering lock I can't get past is the full disklok, the easiest is the ones that feed through the wheel and clamp at the top, took me 5 seconds to get that off, twist and it snaps open, the disklok is the only Thatcham approved steering lock available As for cat 1 and cat 2 Cat 2 is just an immobiliser, factory or otherwise Cat 1 is alarm and immobiliser factory or otherwise If you have just an immobiliser and you go to an alarm fitter they will upgrade to what they call a cat 2-1 basically adding an alarm to be integrated to the immob, mine has the factory immob and then a second immob and alarm on top of that, I have the factory immob light flashing in the clocks, alarm light flashing in the window and second immob flashing in the glove box Wheelclamps are quite easy to get past, especially the ones Joe public can buy, the handbrake locks just take a quick whack on the lock with a hammer and they come undone, and the first 5 years of after market immobilisers the were available could be bypassed by towing the car up to 30mph and bump starting it

I had black ones on my mk4 golf too, you could split the lense and paint them, maybe green to match the car

Not to mention all these parts can go on a classic turbo if you decide to upgrade in the future

One thing the sport lacks over the turbo, bar the obvious, is rear disc brakes and rear anti roll bar, these additions would make a good upgrade, also if you upgrade the front calipers and discs to those off a bug eye wrx you will gain 4 pots, I've done this upgrade on my 97 turbo and it's quite an improvement, also look into a brake flex stopper, tegiwa make them as do other companies, again a cheap but worthwhile upgrade

True I didn't take the load into consideration, too many things to read and consider with not enough sleep lol

Yeh, I don't give the best advice at stupid o'clock in the morning lol

Lots of money for little gain to be honest, I'd save the cash and get a turbo engine or full car

They all come fitted with a cat 2 from the factory, that's the immobiliser, if you tell the insurance it's been upgrade to cat 1, alarm and immobiliser, they will ask for the receipt from the fitter, 50% of Thatcham approval is actually the fitter, they have to be approved by Thatcham themselves If you contact http://www.scorpionauto.com/sigma.htm they may be able to help as they are as far as I know the biggest sigma approved sellers

I've just posted a how to get air out guide on another thread, if you can't find it let me know and I'll have a look for you When running up to temp don't forget the status only fully opens when the fans have kicked in, this gets water round the whole system and will give you more of an idea of what's what As for how much water, doesn't matter if it's deionized or not bit NEVER put cold water in a hot empty engine If you fill it to the brim it will get rid of any excess it doesn't need, I keep a 2 litre bottle of water in the boot just incase

Basically if I have read that right then yes, all your doing is tapping into the current feed, fit a t piece in line somewhere, fit new gauge to t and original 2 bits of pipe to the ends and job done

Go for as many of the cheaper bits to replace first, best way to look at it is If the head gaskets are gone or the heads warped are you going to fix it or sell it, if your willing to do gaskets them go for thermostat, sensors, pipes, caps that kinda thing If all that's done and still nothing, get a pressure tester that screws into the spark plug holes, if there's a massive deviation between pots then it's a head issue The heads are know to split round where the plugs go but this will only be visible when removed A tip for getting an airlock out is cut the bottom of a 2 litre bottle, put insulation tape round the threads where the cap goes and make it a snug fit into the expansion tank, run the engine and fill the bottle, wait till fans have kicked in and give it a couple of minutes after that before you remove the bottle, always keep the bottle topped up, once done that should get shut of the air in the aystem

When your doing it I'll bring my camera round and do the photography

Love it, I too have a green wagon, love them headlights, are they angel eyes too? Always had a soft spot for them, I'll get some at some point

Plus a bigger ic runs lower boost