Miggs

Sorry, 2001 can be classic shape or bug eye, if it's classic there's a self diagnosis you can do, having said that, I might be wrong as if I remember correctly I just stripped a version 6 and that had an obd port under the dash, I don't have diagnosis software for subaru but I would recommend finding a forum member near you, not necessarily off here but an enthusiast to diagnose it rather than a garage, a garage will tell you somethings wrong to get money out of you whereas an enthusiast won't rip you off

Now that's dedication

Love the dodge, I wouldn't mind doing a replica cop car with my wagon, don't think it's the same with a wagon though, the cusco one in another thread looks cool

My missus has has a grinding noise for a few weeks when braking, I got in the car the other day and heard it, she said, "oh Yeh, I meant to tell you about that the other day" turned out there was no friction material at all left on the rear brake pads, it was metal backing of the pad against metal of the disc, now it stops twice as fast when you brake, !Removed! women

i've never been myself but i know a few people that have been and what puts me off is they say it can be quite clicky at times, it's part of another scoob forum that i have been a member of for years and not posted as much as i have on here as you don't get the same friendly atmosphere as you do here i'm not trying to put you off i just don't want you wasting time and fuel going then thinking i'm a git for sending you if you end up not liking it lol

what year subaru is it pal?

One of my friends mentioned scooby today, a woman on his friends list the replies, "what's a scooby?" lol

I'll pin him down you stick it on the car

Hmm looks like I'm paying halfrauds website a quick visit

Best one for the money is a kestrel das6 they usually sell on ebay for just short of £100 as with most things you get what you pay for, the das6 has rave reviews from all over if you pay less for another it could be good but may not last as long, there's the detailing world forum for guides on what to look for when buying and reviews on different machines, Michael at the polishing booth may be able to source one for you and would be more than happy to give you advice, give him a bell, he's more than happy to help, also he posts products out as well as sell in shop, he's extremely busy so hasn't updated the website on what he has for sale but if you tell him what colour car, type and what you want from the end result he will let you know, and every time you spend over £10 you get a stamp on a loyalty card, after several stamps (don't recall just how many) you get £10 free for whatever you want, I usually get 4 cali scents for a tenner

Poachers pub in Bamber Bridge near Preston, it's not too far from the motorway

I wouldn't have it on mine if it was, there be too many people following me thinking I'm the sexy one in the sticker

The sti if complete should have the td05 and if that's the case you will be able to use stock ecu and loom, there's plenty of info on other stand alone management options within the vag community due to all the mk1/2/3 golf's getting mk4/5 engines, an intercooler is as good as charge cooler for cooling, but as it's in a beetle the charge oiler doesn't need to be front mounted, if you were taking it on the strip you can fill the charge cooler with dry ice for a nitrous like boost Other than that, at the moment, that's all I can think of, if you can find a rear shunted import you will get most of what you need from that Oh and a walbro 255lph pump at the least

That's why I didn't want to be doing it on my phone, battery doesn't last that long lol

Out of the ones on the list iI'm partial to subie, yet I tend to type scooby more but I actually prefer scoob, I always think about typing subie but it's more popular on American forums and I hate the way this country is trying to be American so I try not to type it yet the scooby I do type I think is that popular it's almost becoming chav like but when I hear see or type anything to do with the name subaru it instantly makes me think impreza when it could mean any subaru It's a minefield lol

At least with a bug if you don't like the look then the blob and even the hawk fronts will fit straight on

Sorry just trying to give as much info as possible

Lol

as said it does sound to be an air or fuel issue, how have you tried to reset the ecu? there are plugs under the dash to do it but it's one of them scenarios where you connect the plugs, blink 3 times, turn ignition on and off, flash the headlights and grab ya nuts for 5 mins...easiest way is to disconnect the battery for 1 hour+ after 1 hour it will clear the memory and start as a fresh ecu, also if you want to get rid of any residual power in the ecu, take both leads OFF the battery and touch them together, this grounds out all the excess power in the system, leave off for the hour or more mentioned above then put it all back on and hope for the best, at least thats not going to cost you

welcome aboard, nice looking motor, i love the subtlety of the non flared arches, fit a front mount and non turbo bonnet and debadge it then it would be a real street sleeper some cool cars in that list, i've never driven a rotary engined car, always fancied one just not the engine rebuild costs every 40k

trouble is by hand theres a limit of what i can do paint correction wise but if i get 3 customers at £50 each i can then invest in a machine and do pink to red paint and swirl/hologram removal i do enjoy it to a degree, it takes a day to do right and half way through it starts to get to me but the end result is well worth it, if i do some proper reflection shots when i've finished and have them in a folder for the customer to look at i can go round to each customer and show them the pic portfolio and ask what they want doing and give them a quote my only issue is my appearance, i'm 18 stone, 6'5" and have a shaved head, i look more like a baliff than a valeter i'd probably scare them into a detail rather than talk them into it

i was going to type the truth like that but the wife was reading what i was typing so had to lie, in actual fact Hugh Hefner has nothing on my "playboy" lifestyle

EJ22 Phase I: Found in Legacies from 1990-1998 and Imprezas from 1995-1998. Comes rated at 130hp and 137 ft-lbs, 135hp and 140 ft-lbs, or 137hp and 145 ft-lbs. EJ22 Phase II: Found in Legacies in 1999 and Imprezas from 1999-2001. Rated at 142hp and 149 ft-lbs. EJ22-T Phase I: Found in Sport Sedan and Touring Wagons (Legacies) from 1990-1994. Turbocharged and non-intercooled. Rated at 160hp and 181 ft-lbs. Closed deck, cast pistons, forged rods, oil squirters: turbo motor. Poor flowing heads. EJ25 DOHC Phase I: Found in Legacies from 1996-1999, Imprezas in 1998, and Foresters in 1998. Rated at either 155hp and 140 ft-lbs in 1996 or 165hp and 162 ft-lbs in 1997-1999. EJ25 SOHC Phase II: Found in Legacies from 2000+, Imprezas from 1999+, and Foresters from 1999+. Rated at 165hp and 166 ft-lbs. There was a slight compression ratio change from 1999-2000 where it went from 9.7:1 to 10.0:1. USDM EJ20: US Domestic Market WRX. Found in 2002+ WRXs. Rated at 227hp and 217 ft-lbs. Turbocharged, intercooled, open deck, and decent heads. EJ25T DOHC: Available in 2004 in the Forester XT. Rated at 210hp and 235 ft-lbs. Turbocharged, intercooled, VVTi (Variable Valve Timing), and drive by wire. EJ25T-STi DOHC: Available in 2004 in the WRX STi. Rated at 300hp and 300 ft-lbs. Turbocharged, intercooled, AVCS (Active Valve Control System), drive by wire, intercooler sprayer, and semi-closed design. There is also a large variety of engines available from the JDM and EDM locales. The EG33 from the SVX and the EZ30 from the new H6 Legacy can also be found, but they are larger and will be more difficult to swap. Until proven otherwise, the exhaust from a standard WRX from 1993-2004 has remained relatively unchanged. There are four types of downpipes available from any of the EJ20 equipped cars: the twin-turbo downpipe, a la GTB; the twin-scroll downpipe, a la STi Ver. VIII; the IHI flanged downpipe from a pre-MY01 JDM vehicle or post-MY01 non-JDM vehicle, a la USDM WRX or STi Ver. VI; or finally the IHI flanged downpipe from a post-MY01 JDM vehicle; a la STi Ver VII. The twin-scroll downpipe can only be used with an IHI twin-scroll turbo. The pre-MY01 JDM downpipe is the most common downpipe used with EJ20 vehicles. The post-MY01 JDM downpipe was introduced with the GG/GD chassis and is a few inches shorter than the pre-MY01 downpipe. If you choose the pre-MY01, then you must mate it with a similar system. It can be mix-matched as long as it is not matched with a post-MY01 JDM system; this includes using cat-backs designed to work with the EJ25 engines. If you choose the post-MY01, then you must mate it with what is commonly referred to as a "JDM cat-back". The flange at the axle was rotated on the GG/GD chassis so the mid-pipe and the axle-back must be from the same chassis generation. Obviously with the beetle this may all be irrelevant to you as these details are mainly for swapping form subaru to subaru but it gives you an idea of what's on what. All EJ series engines share the same bolt pattern on the bellhousing. While some use fewer bolts than others, they will still bolt up. One caution: the turbo transmissions use a pull-style clutch whereas the NA transmissions use a push-style clutch. If you are swapping transmission types, you need to match the transmission up with the correct clutch/flywheel assembly. One more precaution: if you are swapping in a transmission, you need to be sure that your rear differential final drive ratio matches the final drive ratio of your transmissions. Installing a new transmission without checking this could permanently damage your center differential! Putting an engine from a FWD car into an AWD car or vice versa does not change the swap criteria as it will still all bolt together. Thirdly, the older transmissions use a different shift linkage joint attaching to the shift forks of the transmission. The older transmissions have a fork that attaches to the rest of the shift linkage whereas the newer transmissions have a barrel joint. This must be updated if you are to change from an older tranny to a newer one or vice versa. It is believed that the older style shift linkage was used up until 1997. Beyond 1996, the transmission linkage should be the new style. Finally, the older transmissions utilize a stud on the transmission for mounting the lower hole of the flange of the starter. If you swap in a newer transmission onto an older block, the block will not have the threads for the lower starter bolt. Some have reported success with just using the upper starter bolt, others have tapped a hole into the block. Again, you are NOT doing subaru to subaru and from what i know you just use an adapter plate and mate the beetle box to it, not sure what you are and are not using so the info is there if you need it. basically what i have found is the forged parts fitted as standard are the rods not the pistons, the engines are good for the power without using forged pistons but if you want super reliability and possible more power at a later date i'd probaby strengthen as much as i could while it's out and being done.

I believe it's a case of take the original sender off, fit a spacer type plug thing, usually in the kit, and fit the sender on top of that, basically putting the plug in between engine and sender, Appologies if that's what the link is for I didn't look, it's not hard to do and Sandwich plates are prone to leaks due to lazy gits not checking and cleaning the seals on them come service time

I found last time I got tyres if I paid online and had an appointment either home or at the garage they were £15 a tyre cheaper than just driving in off the street and paying, and that was kwikfit that were the cheapest