Tlag

Like your thinking. :)

Not a great deal at the moment. The gutting part is the amount of time I've put in to getting the inlet manifold ready for this set up and the fact I had to buy the TD05 which I didn't need to do. :( I've now got to spend time figuring out the air intake pipework for a rotated turbo set up and I need to buy an external wastegate which I hadn't planned on doing for a few months yet. It also means that once it's built and in the car, I've got to be really REALLY careful with my right foot. :) that could be tricky.

Managed to fit the turbo this morning. At first glance, it looks great. Then I plonked the bare inlet manifold on top of the block and I have a bit of a problem The leg of the manifold is stopped from going into place by the air inlet of the turbo. :( I did think, when I fitted it that the turbo looked a little forward of normal. I can't see why though, the exhaust/up pipe all fit exactly, as do the brackets. I may have to abandon my stage 1 TD05 plan and go straight to stage 2.

From memory, the front bumper on an outback is different to a standard legacy, it has larger fog lights. The ride height is also greater than the spec B

Oooooo, Cashmere yellow, My kind of colour :)

It does sound like an airlock/water pump issue. Once the pump is changed, filled with coolant with the header cap off, you should see the coolant moving/flowing in the header tank. It just dosnt sound like HG's from what you describe.

All the ej20 sumps are the same basic shape so should fit fine. The difference is what's inside. They will still all fit but some of the later ones have baffles inside. Either way, it's not a problem. To fit a new one, you will need to undo the engine mounting fixings and jack the engine up, just to get to the rear sump bolts. It's fiddly but do able. The dipstick tube is also a pain to get out sometimes, but that' just needs a bit of teasing out

Might have lost the burble, but i ve said nothing about the decibel level

It's unfortunate that I will lose the burble as I love it. Still, I have a twin turbo with an awesome noise for that if needed. I've gone this route just to get the most from the mods and conversions that I've done. I really can't put a figure on bhp that I could gain from this but everyone I've spoken to recommends it. Maybe I could do what they do with the new Mclaren, just play the exhaust noise through the stereo.:)

Does it matter which way you turn on full lock, or do you only hear it in one direction?

Got the equal length headers on to today. Whilst I was looking at the bottom of the engine, I started on the sandwich plate for the oil cooler. I found the oil sensor I have to install in it is quite long and just wouldn't quite fit. So, out with the Dremel and a bit of material removed. It then fitted just right. :) Next was the engine mounts and turn the engine the right way up again. I turned my attention back to the inlet manifold, which it keep, finding excuses to walk away from. Converting it to single turbo has been a bit of a mission. Whilst I know the twin turbo setup very well indeed, the single turbo setup, which should be simpler, I have very little knowledge of. Anyway, I think I have the manifold just about worked out now so I put it all together. I still need to actually fit the wiring loom but the air pipes are now fitted along with the top feed injector conversion. Next will be the parallel fuel conversion.

That road to Applecross is brilliant. We did it a couple of years ago with about 15 Legacies. Brilliant day but glad we didn't meet too much oncoming traffic. :) This clip was part of our day too.

This is what I did a few years ago when I fitted a PC to the car. This was a 7" touchscreen. And this is what I'm currently working on. It started life as this. And currently looks like this, although not finished yet. This is just mocked up.

Haha, I meant a topic room on here, not an actual room, although that always helps :)

I feel a room for this kind of project could be useful :)

I'm doing a similar type job at the moment on my Legacy dash. I've found the best tools are, in no particular order: Dremel, Tape measure, Sharpy pen, Patience, Filler, Patience, Wet and dry paper, And did I mention, patience.

Oil pressure and boost are the two best things to monitor. Both of those will let you know immediately if something is amiss with either of the two most important parts of the car. After that, most things are just nice to have. Although, oil temp will let you know when the engine is at high enough temperature to give it the beans ;)

With the oil pressure, you have a choice of three options really. The first is the where the current switch is, under the alternator. It's also the easiest to get at. The second is a blanking plug on top of cylinder number 3. It's a pain to get to but will show the pressure on that cylinder which is the one to suffer first usually if something goes badly wrong. Thirdly, if you are considering an additional oil cooler, you will need a oil filter sandwich plate which has additional ports for oil pressure and temp of required.

I agree, silver cars look best with dark wheels.

Hi fella, welcome along. Great to see someone else getting a GTB. Are you looking for gen 2 or gen 3? It's not just the styling that's different. It's all personal taste of course. Whichever way you go, if you need any answers before or after you buy, don't be afraid to ask :)

If the boiling water from a kettle didn't open the stat, throw it in the bin, it's had it.

Heres the adivise I gave someone else recently: All the flat four Subaru engines can be a pain to bleed the air out of the coolant system when refilling them. Ideally, it needs to have the front of the car in the air. Fill with coolant and start the engine, with the filler cap off. Put the heater on full heat and aim the air at the windscreen so you can feel the temp with your hand from outside, . Keep topping up as required. You should see bubbles in the header tank that will eventually disappear. Just after that, the rad fans will come on and go off. At that point turn the engine off, let it settle and cool a little. Top up the coolant of required and replace the cap. That does seem really quick for the temp gauge to rise, which indicates to me, its probably an air blockage. No, There is no bleed valve on thses cars. It would make so much sense to have them though.

Is that because the JDM plate apertures are a different size? That's why I've not ordered any.

Cam belt tensioner a are self adjusting but it depends what year you get as to which shape you need. As above, import car parts are brilliant.

It's quite worrying really. When I first started the project, I made a list of bits required and ticked the bits off when I had them. What's worrying is, every time I move on to the next section of the build, I have to add to the list. Although in general, the size of the parts has got smaller, the size of the list never seems to. :)