Tlag

It's a completely stand alone system with separate sensors for everything that I chose. All I had to do was install the sensors and fabricate the screen into the dash.

The bit between is the cup holders. The top screen is the new bit and is the gauges. Third picture shows it powered up.

Well I managed to get one part of the build completed today so I'm a happy chappy for now :) It's gone from this: To this: To this: :)

That's going to be a good size garden

An Impreza classic kit should fit. Although, I have never seen a kit that dosnt need a little fettleing to fit. Using it on a fozzy may need a bit of thought once you have it to get it to fit as the chassis rails are in a different position to the Impreza ones for example. You will probably need to cut away some of the insides of the bumper too, to get the actual IC to fit Don't forget to get a remap done too, or you could end up with epic turbo lag.

Done the MRI scan waiting for an appt with neurosurgeon. After that, I don't know. It's taken a while but at least the pain medication is working now. To start with, even morphine had no effect.

I blocked off the PCV in the manifold first. I have two breathers on each of the cam covers (as it's a 2.5 bottom end). One pair runs to a 't' above the crankcase breather and then to a catch can. The other pair on the cam covers go to another 'T' and on to another catch can. The holes in the air intake pope have just been blocked off. Quite crudely in the case of one of them. I wrapped a bolt in tape, jammed it in and then put a jubilee clip around it. As long as no air can escape, or enter, it's good. Unfortunately, as I slipped a disk 4 weeks ago, I haven't been near the car since. I'm waiting to benefit enough to get the mapper back with my sorted ecu. Only then can i test the modifications made.

You need to measure the gap in the piston that the oil ring came out of. The oil ring is the one with what looks like corrugated metal in the middle. (It's also the one in that photo, if that's yours, then the 3mm is the one as that's showing 2.9mm) If you are still unsure, ring advanced up and tell them the exact model of car you have and year. They are really helpful and will point you in the right direction.

It's not so much about the power (as long as it's standard) it is all about the way it's looked after. I've seen them with over 200000 on the clock and still running sweet. Having said that, I've seen engines expire at 65000 as well. It's all down to the way they are treated and maintained.

Nothing is impossible but you may have to get creative with the way it fits in. It definitely won't go straight in.

Try http://www.importcarparts.co.uk

Actually, that's a good point. In your first post you mentioned an area of wetness on the under tray. That obviously has to have come out of a pipe or a component. Take the car for a drive and get it up to temperature. With the engine running, lift the bonnet and have a look for where the coolant is escaping. My original though was the overflow tank, but it could also be that the radiator has sprung a leak. You may need a torch at this point. With the engine running and up to temp, look down the radiator end pieces. You should be able to see engine side quite easily but you will need the torch to see down between the rad and the slam panel. If the coolant is on the undertray on the passenger side and the rad looks fine, it could be the water pump but you won't see that as it's inside the cam belt covers.

Sounds like it may be a simple as new plugs, leads or battery. It maybe just needs a good service.

That sounds like early signs of head gasket failure. The gaskets tend to break up between the combustion chamber and the water jacket that surrounds it. Compressed gases get into the coolant system which increases the coolants volume. The excess is forced out of a tiny overflow hole in the overflow tank. That's where you get the wetness from and the lower level of coolant. It's rare on Subarus to get the classic sign of head gasket failure (oil and coolant = mayo). The one way to check for certain is to go to a garage and ask for a sniff test to be done. They should have a device that suspends a chemical above the radiator cap. The fumes will send the chemical a different colour if combusted material is in the coolant.

Yep, agree with above.

They are not normally that stubborn! Before doing the other side, I would soak it in oil /wd40 the night before and then again just before doing it.

Blimey, word spreads about my back! At the moment it's damn painful but hopefully on the road to recovery.

Ok, the video won't play for me but from the still picture, it looks about right. There is a test you can do on the solenoid to find the voltage but I've never done it. I've always just replaced the unit. If it's an electrical problem, cleaning won't help

Hi Myke, Welcome along. It's just as friendly here as UKL. :)

The big problem with a 6 speed is finding one at a good price :)

Please don't take this the wrong way, but, from the comments above, I'm thinking you have actually cleaned out the throttle body and the valve attached to it. If so, that's the throttle position sensor. The idle control valve is further down the manifold, passenger side. If I'm wrong and you have cleaned the idle control valve several times with no effect, it's probably time for a new one as it's the electronics inside it that won't respond to any amount of cleaning. Although, if it has no effect whatsoever on the running of the car, it's not an urgent job. Have you cleared the code after each time you've cleaned it?

I've not fitted one to a 2008 but every car I have fitted one to has required modifications to make it fit. Things like: Cutting the bumper to allow the intercooler to fit behind it. Re shaping the windscreen washer bottle to allow the pipework to pass, Some cars have required the inner wing to be cut to allow the pipework to go through. Not saying your car will need that work, but I can't imagine it's as simple as bolting it on. If you do it, don't forget to get a remap done or you could end up with it reducing your power and or causing other issues.

Sounds like alarm/immobiliser problem. When you put the key in the ignition and turn the key, do you get anything at all? Dash ign lights, Radio, Electric windows, Interior lights, If nothing works at all, I doubt it's an alarm issue. Time to look at the battery terminals, earthing, etc.

Not familer with anyone to the north to be honest. I'm sure someone will suggest someone soon though. What ecu do you have? If it's ecutec for example, you could just google ecutec mappers.

Plenty of good mappers around. Where in the UK are you?