kershaw-330s

But apparently v power isn't 99 anymore so the only place to get 99 now is tesco lol Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Well it just seamed to drive fine till about 3k and it just would just go flat like I had a massive boost leak or something Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Sounds like my car when it had ringland failure. You a 2ltr tho so I would prob think it's your maf try unplugging it then give it a run Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Well I'm about a bit later where bouts are you based I'm down Portsmouth way , looking at pics online the cooler looks like it can swap strait over if the ypipe is the right size Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

What brand of coils would you say where most resistant to corrosion? I will be looking to get a set for the hatch soon but I would rather spend the extra now knowing they're going to last Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Was it full till it clicks ?? I recon It must just be your dial freaking out I know Scoobys are in now way frugal but you should return an average of atleast 25 mpg with some spirited driving I return 33ish and even more on a run and I've got 650cc injectors and a bigger turbo. although in stock trim a quarter of a tank in 40 odd miles is defiantly doable if doing very spirited driving because at WOT it will drink a lot and I mean a hideous amount, and cold starts with high idol will use a lot trying to warm the cats. My recommendation would be, if it does it again go strait back to the pet station and brim it till it clicks again, then you know for sure how much fuel you have used. Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Are you lowered ? Also you are defiantly clearing the breaks ? Are you running spacers ? Also is it a steady clonk when going strait is it when turning ? Does it get quicker wen turning. Could be all those things also could be drive shafts or wheel bearings Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

That's not good considering they rant about how good the anti corrosion coating is on them [emoji52] Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Best advice is remove the whole egr system and air pump it's just a stupid design . Mine is in a box in my garage . Also I'm unsure if this has already been mentioned but there is a major recall coming in on air pump because they catch fire [emoji15] Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

I filled it from empty mate. 55L roughly in it. That's similar to what I'm thinking (hoping) has happened though. Just dropped 1/4 tank quickly and will now slow down to a normal rate. Haven't hit full boost loads in it yet as I'm just trying to learn the car at the moment. Oh that's random I've never had that happen from a full tank Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

I'm going for the mishimoto one for me comes with air box if you want and reasonably priced .. I would avoid the arch / wing mounted ones just because of road dirt and water . And a remap is a must stair after if you install one , I literally wouldn't drive it without a map Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Aye I meant like does anyone run it? Think there's something wrong on my end. Used just under a 1/4 of a tank going 35miles...that works out to around 9mpg roughly?! Surely something's wrong there...only put my foot down twice in that time too! I could understand 15mpg but 9! [emoji33] Wife's gunna kill me haha Sometimes my fuel gage spaks out if only topping up a lil bit , then if you boot it sometimes goes right down to where it was before. Go chuck another £15-£20 in for peace of mind and it shoots right over half way I always try top up over half a tank now for this reason Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Free if anyone wants it collection only Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Any news on this ? Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

I would say it would be you bearings that will go first even if well maintained at about 100k they're getting towards the end of their usable life if the car has had spirited use , mainly because of the design of the flat engine the bearings are slimmer that a conventional strait engine , thus meaning they wear out quicker but the life can be prolonged with 3k or sorter services and proper warm up procedure, but I would be cautious buying a scoob with over 100k or at least be prepared to spend some cash on it. Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

I can vouch for the 2.5 I'm running 410lbft before 3.5krpm but does depend on how far you want to go Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Oh I just assumed it was a 2.5 lol the 2.0 don't suffer the same as the 2.5 with the piston failure Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

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Yes wot = wide open throttle . it's somthing todo with the short stroke and just general big turbo and huge Pistons on the 2.5 try not to give it full beans below 3k Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Sounds more like a spun bearing to me :/ glad it was something simple go RCM headers and magma heat wrap top quality and the heat wrap is defo worth it cos once you go tubular headers the heat that is generated is mental Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

What fitment Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

A lot more torque too Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Applying wot under 3k is not recommended especially in higher gears dramatically increases the risks of ring-land failure Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

It's a resonator and also helps give a consistent maf reading by keeping a constant pressure was thinking about removing mine but also it must help prevent water getting in so I've left mine on till I get an induction kit Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk

Changing heads could be an issue and all 2.5 sti blocks are semi closed anyway I think you mean the closed deck insert . The most reliable would be put the 2.5 crank in the v8 2ltr make a 2.1 and closed deck insert be bullet proof and still Rev to 8 Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Tapatalk