Newman2213

I have a 2001JDM import bugeye wagon STI. I have what's considered the more reliable 2.0 litre semi closed engine, VF34 turbo, forged pistons and 6 speed gearbox.

Passenger side parts out ready for returning, I want to regrease the driveshafts, but they have those awful one use clamps on.

It's a decent piece of engineering though.

That's a nice looking car. I live in a cul de sac and most of us just do it out on the street, nobody complains.

I've got everything to rebuild all 4 corners now. So I can crack on, but i will have to battle the weather. Arches, shocker, driveshaft, steering rack, wheel hub, caliper all resprayed.

I'm in West Yorkshire. Paint £20, laquer £8 ,new seals front and back £40 (genuine Subaru), Subaru lettering £4 £72 Cheapest refurb I could find was £200 ish Hardest part is removing the pistons.

Remove front caliper, stripped the pistons, seals and split the caliper. I've repainted them black and pink, just waiting on the seal kit for rebuilding.

He discusses it on a YouTube video called "reverse cooling and how it applies to subarus" its towards the backend of the video, he says it's from the Subaru manual

The function diagram of the cooling system shows it returns directly to the pump from, the return line. As a plumber to me it's a poor design. But when it's not installed the coolant flows either through the turbo and back to the reservoir and radiator, or to the heater matrix, and back to the pump

He recommends the return line, the only thing buging me about it is, he claims the fittings he used are designed to allow a specific amount of coolant through the pipe, and that it's his design alone that provides not too much or not too little. But I see no reasoning for this there are too many variables to specify what is exactly correct. To me less heat means less chance of detonation at high loads. You could also put it through the flow into the matrix, as it would act as a passive cooler, but looking at the direction of flow it already splits off to the radiator and matrix, on the flow side, and adding another tee into that section could create flow issues, but maybe using a y fitting rather than a straight tee would create a less friction environment for coolant flow.

Too hot to do anything, but have been reading about a cooling modification for EJ207 cylinder 4 cooling. http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/ He has some solid research, and I've sourced the parts for £20 (dont tell him 😉) I may give it a bash.

I hope the install of the body kit was better than the repair attempt, or you could be opening a can of worms. Or are you going to attempt it still attached?

What the hell. It looks irs tie wrapped together with a load of body filler slapped on and painted. That looks like a lot of work.

I'm happy with it, only 3 left to do.

Just needs a final wash and it's ready to go back on. Whilst the suspension is out I will be repainting the drive shaft, steering rack, and wheel arch. I'm waiting on my caliper rebuild kits, and they will be re-done also.