Newman2213

Tested the Taxtrix today and can log with BtSsm

Engine bay is back to normal with no leaks on the banjo bolts, fuel pipes, injector seals, or any check engine lights. I'm going to try and find some apps for data logging with the taxtrix and hopefully pull the stock map off the ECU.

Bought a Tactrix today, ready for some data logging and monitoring

I have removed and inspected the brake master cylinder and, sprayed the servo. I'm just waiting for a few gaskets delivering, and I can refit everything, and hopefully start on some engine mods. I'm looking at de-cats to begin with. I'm very curious to run some water methanol mix.

According to some Mercedes forums the have a similar issue. They had various fixes, like, adding pigtails to the sensor (which mine has) cutting the wires and putting butt connectors in so if the capillary attraction occurs it will drip off them before contaminating the loom. I had oil inside the sensor and the pigtails, but no further. I de-pined the pigtail and cleaned it out, with contact cleaner. It seems the oil goes down into the sensor and travels up the sensor.

I discovered the reason for some of the oil on the engine How F####D up is this!?!? https://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/19909-attn-all-owners-of-cars-that-have-avcs/

I'm waiting on a delivery of some fuel hose, cable conduit and banjo washers. I took the banjo bolts out of AVCS lines and the filters were clear, I just have the turbo one to do. Removed the cam and crank positioning sensors and swapped the rubbers whilst I was there. (All imperial sizes so far) and PTFE taped the oil sensor. I've started cleaning the dried oil from the engine block and cam covers, I'm concerned the cam covers are leaking but I will find out once I've cleaned off the crud

Get the G4 link, drop the lump into a 6 speed STI shell, sell the left over shell and tune it to the moon.

You show that care some serious love. Did you get the stroker conversion?

What duty cyle are the injectors running at, at 380bhp? According to apparent best practice anything above 85% is risky as they can overheat, burn out and create issues with attomisation of fuel

What power levels are you aiming for?

I've rebuilt the throttle body today, cleaned the Idle air valve and, stripped the loom off the intake manifold, it just needs a clean and wrapping in new tape. Also been reading about the banjo bolts with the oil screens in, I better clean those whilst i can get to them

Started stripping down the inlet manifold, I've read that the rubber fuel hoses can become brittle, that sit on the underside of the manifold, so I'm going to replace all of them, possibly with a parallel fuel setup, injector seals and filters will be replaced, and the loom tidied up.

Thanks, I may as well renew them whilst I'm in there. I was a bit annoyed to remove what is sold as the PCV assembly to find no valve inside. It was in the Intake manifold.

It has single AVCS not dual, oops

Intake manifold off today to find the oil leak culprits. This engine has dual AVCS and both sides are leaking, im going to do a compression test and rebuild the manifold, new hoses and better cable management. Turbo has a very small amount of side play but no front to back, plugs look good too I want to remove the long block and replace all the gaskets bearings and seals but I'm not sure yet. Does anyone know what the sensors are in the second picture, i have one on each side.

Alternator bearing fitted, and reassembled, i can't find the torque specs for the pulley in the manual. I will keep looking online.

I've moved house and got a garage now so i can get more done. My PCV system hoses have some oil around the crankcase so I'm going in for a closer look, the air intake manifold is coming out so i can get to everything easily, but I may as well have a look at everything on its way off. Alternator first, I've cleaned it up and removed the rear bearing as its beyond repair, the others I re-greased.

It will be interesting to know how many passes it does, the way it snakes down the track, it will probably crash before it breaks.

Stopped worrying about my notchy gearbox.

Passenger side parts out ready for returning, I want to regrease the driveshafts, but they have those awful one use clamps on.

It's a decent piece of engineering though.

That's a nice looking car. I live in a cul de sac and most of us just do it out on the street, nobody complains.

I've got everything to rebuild all 4 corners now. So I can crack on, but i will have to battle the weather. Arches, shocker, driveshaft, steering rack, wheel hub, caliper all resprayed.

I'm in West Yorkshire. Paint £20, laquer £8 ,new seals front and back £40 (genuine Subaru), Subaru lettering £4 £72 Cheapest refurb I could find was £200 ish Hardest part is removing the pistons.