savage bulldogs

Cheers stants and hmmmm 21yr olds asses Well the back end of the scoob had started to feel a bit "wallowy " and I new the rear shocks and top mounts had seen better days as they were the originals off the v3 uk . so i ordered some new rear shocks and group n top mounts from icp and set about stripping my elbaich springs off the old legs fitted the new top mounts and old springs to the shocks and fitted them with new elbaich rear camber bolts I've set the camber bolts in a neutral position for now as i still need to get a geo set up done but the overall ride is much smoother and she now turns in nicely (like a scooby should ) instead of feeling like i was towing a caravan

I think I bought these last night [emoji5] If they do turn up next wknd I'll have my 4 pots for sale and they've been refurbed with stainless steel pistons [emoji6]

Stripped the old fubar'd rear shocks down , fitted my group n top mounts, elbaich springs and camber bolts to the new shocks . Still got to get it geo'd but it Feels much better now and turns in nicely like a scooby should [emoji41] Instead of wallowing about like I was towing a caravan [emoji4]

I've bought 3 5 speed pink box exedy and currently run a 6 speed pink box exedy (both are full plate type) but never new they did a pink box exedy paddle clutch. Dunno what brand paddle mine had in it was worn to the rivets and fubar though

Sorry when you said stage 2 I thought you meant pink box not paddle . My scoob had a paddle clutch in when my brv bought it but we removed cos it was shot and had eaten the flywheel . I think rick has recently fitted a paddle clutch on his daily so might have some insight into the bedding in

Did you skim the flywheel /fit a new flywheel ?

Ordered my new rear shocks and group n top mounts yesterday morning and they arrived today , gotta love importcarparts for oe stuff [emoji106] Apparently sti make their mounts with the same rubber as bulldog toys . As liz wouldn't leave em alone so I've gotta keep a eye on her when I fitt them tomorrow [emoji5]

have got the smaller dia vacuum pipe connected to the recirc ?

I've been modding my classic for about 3yrs so far and can't see me finishing it anytime soon [emoji5] My original uk turbo had 90k fsh and when I fitted the forged engine (after I'd run it in) the gearbox died about a week after the road map probably@ about 330hp My brv killed 2 early jdm short ratio gearboxes in 3 months @ 350 hp and generally people do say the standard classic boxes limit is 350hp. Saying that Ash on here runs 370 (I think) and I know someone who ran 375 through his late classic box too . The common upgrade is the newage sti 6 speed which are good for 600hp+ but cost £1.5k+ fitting . Newage 5 speeds are considered stronger but don't like much more than 400hp . 5 speed dog box are about £2k+ pending on spec and handle abuse better than all the above. Classic uk /wrx engines 320 hp limit A Classic sti engines limit is about 360hp Of cause all those figures are just rough pending on s/h ,condition, supporting mods and how much you push em [emoji6] Brake wise some classics have 2 pot front calipers anything over 280 hp these become scary and need to be binned . I'm running 4pot front and 2 pot rear calipers off a newage with drilled n groved discs and at 350 hp ish (admittedly without abs) I think there near their limit.so I'm currently looking into newage sti brembos .

Hi n welcome to soc bear in mind If you're considering breaking the 400 barrier in a classic sti the engine , drive train and brakes will need to be uprated. Unfortunately the modifications are quite costly (£3.5k+ in parts alone) , you might be better off ever aiming for the sub 350 hp and sticking with the standard sti equipment. Or looking for a clean wrx to upgrade over a longer period rather than paying sti money(for the car and insurance) only to remove most of the sti bits when you want a reliable 400hp Just food for thought before you buy the base car and best of luck with the hunt

I've noticed that the scoob has felt a bit "wallowy" when turning right especially since I've refitted the refurb'd rotas and just assumed it was the cheaper rear tyres not gripping as well as the new front firestones. Gave it some beans over the wknd while going down a right hand bend slip lane and the passenger side rear tyre seemed to loose traction far earlier in the rev range accompanied by a knocking

As long as the recirc fits the tmic and seals up ok maybe try using it as a vta by leaving the bung in the oe recirc to inlet pipe (so the recirc then vta instead of dumping the air into the intake pipe) and connecting the vac line . If it runs /drives ok that would indicate that the aftermarket vta dumpvalve isn't sealing and letting in extra unmeatered air causing the idle issues .

Erm right post ........ wrong thread i thought it was the japshow thread lol

I'm also eyeing up a brembo front brake conversion[emoji48] so guess I'd better start looking for a wagon.... Cos if I get those as well I'll be needing somewhere to sleep [emoji5]

Hmmm I was on target for going to this and even did some diy to keep the mrs happy [emoji33] but one of my rear shocks has decided to spit it's dummy out and (as most of you know) I can't take a part of my scoob without fettling or upgrading it [emoji5] Two new rear shocks, a pair of group n top mounts and a £240 bill are on their way so I might have fooked my chances now [emoji57]

Not much of a update just a couple of pics i had done by matt woods photography while at a meet with my local forum He's obviously talented with a camera as its the cars 21st birthday this month and i think she looks quite good [emoji41] well in his pics anyways[emoji5]

it gives the mapper better control on boost targets during a remap . Bear in mind They're not just plug n play and have to be mapped in though

When trying to locate air leaks use soapy water after the turbo as the positive pressure will cause bubbles where it leaks . Before the turbo (air filter to turbo) you can try spraying a bit of carb or brake cleaner if it's sucking in air through a leak the idle will rise when you spray in that area due to it sucking in the cleaner . Don't go crazy with the carb or brake cleaner as its flamable (hence the idle change if its leaking) especially near the turbo outlet or "hotside " It does seem like its a issue with the dv have you tried to refit the recirc and remove the dv all together ?

Just been chatting to the mrs whilst having a beer or 4 and I've almost sealed a deal for the sunday [emoji41] I recon I'm about 2 more beers and a bit of diy away from her signing on the line [emoji5]

Dunno stants he's got the original california and the uk plate in the windscreen . Was thinking about getting a smaller square plate for my jdm classic but plate sizes seem to be a bit of a minefield

The left hook bug has a few grim speed and crower trick bits and the owner has taken it to every track he's been posted near, apparently it hit 160 on the autobahn and the ring . Think its running a vf49 but no dyno printouts as it was road mapped

Couple more of the supra And the usdm (air force) bug

If a gear or dif cog breaks any bits of metal that break off can get stuck between other cogs causing it to "jam" and lock up the wheels . at least you've got another one ..... Mr greedy 2scoobs [emoji5]

I'm crap with trimming pics tbh I'll chuck some of the ones matt woods did when we get them as mine have more carpark than car lol. I tried to take a pic of under the bonnet of the malloo but soon as that big block v8 started singing there was a few people in the way lol The twin turbo supra sounded quite sweet too

Does it make a noise in every gear if so is it any louder if you accelerate , decelerate or in idle I've got a r160 3.5.4 uk ratio diff here gambit shame you're a bit far away . Hope you get it sorted bud Er hum...... 6speed[emoji4]