savage bulldogs

Hi n welcome to soc you certainly won't have any trouble finding that in a car park , both of my classics are common silver . If you're looking for a replacement long engine (block n heads) any v1 (93) to v4 (98) will be a straight swap[emoji6] although the v1/v2 has a phase 1 inlet and the v3/v4 has a phase 1.5 inlet (different shape and turbo entry) your phase 1 inlet , turbo and auxiliaries will fit to v3/v4 heads as the inlet stud pattern is the same

I'd guess at turbo to downpipe gasket or upipe . Try jacking the front end up (safely) get someone to block the exhaust exit (bit of rag held over the end with their foot) and listen underneath and near the turbo outlet to see if you can pinpoint where it's coming from . Don't run it for a long while blocked release the pressure every now and then just in case you make the blow worse with excessive back pressure

Although bugeye sti's are getting thin on the ground (due to being broken for spares/only being made for 2 yrs or so) and that does look a nice low mileage example so had to find /value Saying that if I was looking for a standard bug eye sti I'd want it to be very clean underneath without any signs of rust on the rear strutts/arches with a full good history as I think that was about jdm blob eye money at 8.5k (last time I looked at newage)

I think most of us with turbo versions run 99 ron especially if you like the occasional spirited drive cos as you know leaning off under heavy boost is a sure way to melt stuff . However I think that uk spec cars are mapped for our lesser octane fuel as standard

Its Quite a easy and cheap thing to do sam . Just have a look at your existing pipe dia and order a few meters from "autosiliconehoses" (A.S.H) probably only cost you about £15 delivered for 3 mtrs of each dia [emoji6]

although japspeed are at the cheaper end of the scale they do tend to get good reviews . Failing that try looking for a second hand hdi or autobahn fmic as they will slightly out perform the Japspeed and cost a bit less than a new one

Early classics are probably the lightest not just the ra (rust altered) versions [emoji5] due to having a lot off ally bits (bonnet , wish bones ect) and no abs or air bags . My v1 sti was 1220 kg with 280 bhp and a close ratio jdm box out of the factory I'd imagine it would have been a contender for one of the quickest standard scoobs ...... Plus it's silver lol

Had my depo fitted for 3yrs or so without any problems . I'd love a toucan touch screen or defis but the depo's not broke so I'll spend the extra £'s elsewhere instead

Markicp on ebay will have the genuine gaskets your after . Left hand gasket ,right hand gasket ,4× spark plug gaskets ,4× half moons and some 3 bond sealant (to smear on the moons and faces ) You will loose a little bit of oil and it might be worth doing the spark plugs and making sure you've got a decent 3/4G drive socket set [emoji6]

Loving the old school beemer to bud [emoji106] Nearly bought a dolphin grey 325iM sport years ago it had mint mechanicals and black leather interior but the rear arches were shot to !Removed! [emoji20]

Looks much better nice work

Really rusty looking ones go faster

Will admit it's a shame that even new age sti's are worth more in bits I've broken 3 pre 98 classics in 2 years , 2 eaten by tin worm and 1 with a break in the loom somewhere (they were beyond economical repair) Chuck a thread up with your issues/details and what makes you think the engine's fooked they're might be someone who is near you to help out as there's a few garages that are members on here

Hi n welcome , Lovely looking wagon Gary [emoji106] How long have you had it and what have you done to it ,fella ?

Has yours been mapped dino ? Mine still needs a tweek due to a new induction set up but here's my afr at 3 different boost settings Needs a trim but they're all in the ballpark at full throttle under load on the dyno but I'm unsure what adjustments the tps has made to the afr is at different throttle positions as I didn't get a printout for those

Yeah i Think the ideal afr is around 11 which is fairly lean in comparison to most other cars . I'd imagine that the cold start part of the map is set leaner (hotter) to warm up the engine to ideal running temp quicker . it would probably help lessen coking up the bores with over fuelling off boost. As ideally you should be off boost till it's warm and cool it down before switching it off

Nooo don't paint it ....... I'm sure there's a law against painting good looking carbon fibre [emoji5] Maybe if it was scratched or needed to be re lacquered [emoji6] has the paintwork been done yet bud ?

Going to this with a local forum but thought I'd share it on here as it's free and not much else is now days . http://www.buryretrocarclub.co.uk/carsonthegreen.php couldn't tell anyone much about it tbh as I haven't been before but its only 30mins away from me and will only cost me a fiver (donation to mcmillan) to put my scoob on the stand . Cheers clive

96/97 would be v3 classic impreza which would be phase 1.5 inlet . I'd imagine that gear linkage wise it would just be for a 5 speed classic but if you phone alyn I'm sure he'll know what's what and point you in the right direction [emoji6]

still not had the opportunity to have someone to double check the live readings on the apexi controller during a 3rd gear pull[emoji57] I'm fairly confident the filter swap worked though as the boost is holding better higher in the rev range according to my boost gauge [emoji41] So I tried the other setting attowe said to switch to and midrange torque /top end pull are much better with a fair bit of boost for 3/4 throttle uphill

Glad it was just a rim and nothing wrong with the foz stants [emoji41] Still think that you're mad not telling your mrs all 4 rims we're fooked and "it would be cheaper to buy a new aftermarket set if 17's "[emoji39]

There was definitely a difference between the standard 6 speed in my brvs set up to the 6 speed with ppp short shift in my classic I haven't had any experience with a aftermarket short shift but I've heard a few people rate the "kartboy" short shift unsure if they come with new linkage bushes ,so it might be worth checking and if not getting some from the likes of alyn @as performance (to tighten things up as well)

As stants said The oil temp sender is the only pita bit but just take your time and make sure you get the "subaru specific" brass bung to fit the oil temp sender above cylinder number 3. as they're not ofter included in most fitting kits supplied with gauges

Here's a pic of my depo 4 in 1 gauge can't fault it for under £100 [emoji6] Didn't like the colour so switched the colour over to this Love being able to know how warm the oil is before I use any boost and being able to monitor oil pressure is a bonus [emoji6]

Nice clean looking v4 uk [emoji41] maybe a front splitter ? As imo classics look a bit "chinless" without them .