savage bulldogs

Had a bit of a read up on the v1's and I think your right it was only the v1 sti's that had a build number and v2 onwards came straight from the factory . I asked about the turbo entry type cos early 96 is v2 (top entry) and late 96 is v3 (front entry) but if it's a v2 sti model code it will have a phase 1 inlet and fuel rail set up with a top entry tdo5 as standard

I forgot to ask has it been decatted or any other breathing mods ? and I've just edited my last post as it was meant for a different thread lol

Rattling heatshield and eml has it been decatted ? If so has it been mapped ? As nevell said I'd want to know why the eml was on just in case it was something serious . On the other hand I think the bugeyes do have a easily repaired cam sensor earth fault which sometimes causes a random eml . So it could be a simple fix but me personally I'd wait for a well cherished example , unless it was cheap enough to set some money to one side for repairs

No the 4pot subaru calipers run larger discs but the calipers and discs bolt straight on just watch your wheel offset [emoji6]

It's so the solinoid moves to push the cleaner through bud. It also gives you fault codes which might indicate where your problem is [emoji6] Edited as I posted on the wrong thread [emoji15] [emoji4]

Tbh I only started cleaning and painting stuff under the bonnet cos I got bored while saving for the engine components /waiting for the engineer to finish the over bore . But like most things "scoob" it's a slippery slope cos once one bit looks shiny it makes everything else look !Removed! [emoji5] At least it's cheap to do as it only really costs time and a bit of paint but I would recommend buying cheap second hand bit's(inlets , header tanks ect) and painting them . As you can take your time between coats and once lacquered let it cure for a week or so before fitting [emoji6]

Nevell try..... mark@lateral performance or alyn@AS performance either of them should have injector o rings in stock give either of them a bell rather than ordering through their websites ,as they don't list all their stock online[emoji6]

Boost creep is sometimes caused by a faulty actuator not controlling the wastegate accurately . Especially if it's decatted and not remapped as the ecu might struggle to keep the boost targets in the standard map parameters. It could just be a leaky vacuum pipe or the boost solenoid might need to be cleaned or replaced Have you done a classic self code check? (by connecting the plugs under the dash)

My mate had a 93 wrx in black but tin worm put pay to that [emoji20] Nice to see a clean looking early classic [emoji106] Had it long , any mods ? they're definitely thin on the ground due to rot and being robbed for their cdb's [emoji19]

Is the issue "boost creep" the boost waivers and sometimes even hits the fuel cut ? Has the actuator arm got play in it ?

afraid I haven't changed one on a engine full of coolant or am I 100% which one of the water sensors goes to the ecu. But it's one of the two sensors on the water crossover pipe in the pic below.

Not to sure how to tell if it's a genuine spoiler other than my current one has subaru stamped near the fixing studs. The bigger v5 onwards sti spoiler I had was cheaply made n sprayed and weighed a ton lol model codes are the best way to identify the cars version and spec , although sometimes your better off checking the code against a few lists that are online as not everything on the web is fact . Mine being a early v1sti started life as a wrx which was then sent to subaru techinica international stripped down, blue printed , re asembled , given a build number and then sold as a wrx sti . I do know the later v1 wrx sti's were given the same treatment but they made 200 per month . As the build numbers are ***/200 . I thought the v2 wrx sti's were also hand built and had a build number plaque as well . I was told from v3 onwards that they left the subaru factory production line as sti's in mass without a plaque but that's not a fact (just what I was told) . is the turbo top entry or front entry (intake passes under the inlet)

Mine weeps from both ends of that pipe occasionally due to the !Removed! spring clips that hold it in place . I'll eventually buy a new silicone hose and replace the !Removed! clips with stainless jubilee ones . I haven't had any air locks (heaters still hot ) and the water hasn't dropped by much so I don't think it's a major problem on mine

Have you tried cleaning or blanking the dump off as it could be that leaking

Hi n welcome Easiest way to up load pics is with tapa talk app on a smart phone . Otherwise use a image hosting site like photo bucket , upload pic , click on links for the pic then copy and paste the "img" code on here

Nice choice [emoji106] Not to many earlier foz sti's about [emoji6] Stants will be along shortly , when he's stopped licking his phone screen [emoji4]

I loved the look of the higher spoiler on my classic but it was a cheap heavy copy with dodgy paint so I've sold it and put the standard one back on for now until something decent catches my eye . My v1 sti has a bit of paint fade and it's fair share of carpark dings but hey it's 21 yrs old in may so it ain't gonna be mint .

Hi n welcome . Don't be shy with the pics lenny cos at this time on a Saturday night most of us are to drunk to type coherently [emoji6]

Hi n welcome to soc Is that a white saloon hmmm always fancied a white one myself

What power rating is the new walbro good for as I'm sure you know the turbo's good for 420+. Mappers normally run the ait info to the ecu via the old maf wires but it's better situated just before the throttle body like this Few things that might be worth a look If it's got a aftermarket fpr with a gauge does it read a steady pressure ? Have you checked the vaclines to the fpr ,purge valve and charcoal canister ? How old are the spark plugs and what grade are they ? Are the engine earths and grey loom plugs clean ? if it runs separate coil packs have you thought about a newage coilpack conversion . Cleaning or replacing the icv is a good shout as well . Intermittent faults are a pita best of luck bud

i tend give advice mostly based on experience , some of its useful but some of it's a bit of a ramble lol. Either way if someone else disagrees or offers another opinion I tend to ask a few questions and hopefully learn something new . I just can't stick keyboard warriors who wait for somebody to offer advice or put up pic's of their pride n joy and try to rip them to bits . I know what i like in a car but Each to their own with car modding imo

Have you got a ait sensor fitted ? As Mafless can cause a bit of rough idle as the air density sensor and mass air flow meters are taken out of the ecus parameters and it has to function purely from the map sensor . So if it was mapped for warmer air in the summer the colder denser air in the winter can make a difference , so most mappers recommend fitting a air intake temp sensor to the tmic or fmic pipework to help with fuel trim

Smart move lol Think a old school friend might have beaten him as far as stupidness goes He thought it would be funny to nick a robin reliant [emoji57] Drove it all of 30yrds , mounted the kerb, wedged it between a lamppost and a wall ...... Police found him 20mins later still in the robin clawing at the windows as he couldn't move the car or open the doors [emoji23]

I'm going to get some rear camber bolts and probably go for this set up as it's supposed to lesson under steer but not scrub the tyres out as much as the classic prodrive set up [emoji6] Haven't got any personal experiences with different geo set ups but the above was recommended to me for fast road applications

Drove to norwich(50 miles away) Bounced it off the limiter on the dyno a few times then scalped a boxter and a s3 on the way home . Even though I only managed 330/320 with the tweek it still goes well but .... I think I need a bigger turbo lol