savage bulldogs

Type r's are 2 door and most people think that their better equipped than a p1 Ra stands for race altered and comes in various guises . Some ra's (especially the wrx ones) only have ally bonnets and wishbones . Whereas a "true" wrx sti ra has no spoiler/side skirts , manual window winders and a factory fitted roof flap. In a nutshell ra means it's lighter version compared to a normal wrx , wrx sti or a wrx sti type r

Are yours side feed or top feed ?

Electronic faults are difficult to find without diagnostics and even then can be down to a bad earth or fault somwhere else . Maybe try to find the particular relay thats clicking and one of the newage owners might know what it's for . Or there is a blue tooth odb interface and phone app that some newage owners use , but unsure if you can wipe /read codes with it . Hopefully someone who knows a bit more about newage electrics or the app will post . As early classic mechanics are more my thing tbo

Does sound like a relay or solenoid as I know when you do diagnostics on a classic the fan relays and boost solenoid click to test themselves . Did you fix the vacuum "T" piece as a leak in vacuum would possibly cause the boost solenoid to click .

I won't insult you with a offer as I need to do some more research first . to see if it will definitely mate up with the p20 or 7cm exhaust housings I've got in my box of bits . then finding out if it will perform any better than my current tdo5 on my 2ltr ,which so far I don't think it will (unfortunately) For now Just bear me in mind if nobody else wants to repair it pls bud and glwts

Clicking or misfiring ?

Quick Google and it's probably a ihi vf48 It seems its better suited to the 2.5 ltr (shame cos I'm running a 2ltr) Saying that if nobody else wants to repair it and you don't want to much for it. I do fancy having a go at building my own turbo but, wouldn't want to spend to much on bits to play with.

Is it a single scroll turbo ? If so what number is it ie vf 35 ' 34 ect

Is it still doing it ? Or was it when you first re connected the battery ? If it was just when you re connected it was probably the ecu checking relays/solenoids after the reset

Good glad it's sorted If the symptoms do come back get the codes read and that will hopefully let you know what's causing the problem.

Hi and welcome to soc any pics ? Looks like you're going to feel at home ..... As a Subaru badge and a sence of humour are the main criteria needed to be a part of soc [emoji4]

Only the fact that the alarm won't be on whilst the battery isn't connected .

No problem fella Gaps are normally preset but it's advised to gap them a bit smaller if you're running more than 0.8 bar of boost (remapped) I always check them just in case one's been dropped . It might be a cracked spark plug or coil pack . I'd still suggest to take it somewhere where they'll read the codes as this will give the best diagnosis

Did the garage check the codes/reset your ecu ? If you're checking the plugs yourself and it's been miss firing one might be a slight different colour , indicating which cylinder is the issue . Its also Worth checking their gap and re gapping them slightly under standard . As boost is known to blow the spark out if they're gapped over size . All the best and hope it's a cheap fix for you fella

Have you done a ecu reset ? If not try disconnecting your battery earth for 20 mins , but make sure you know your alarm will work afterwards (ie turn it off manually beforehand.

I got mine from importcarparts but, if your buying a few bit's, your better of phoning them as they'll normally knock a bit off for bulk orders

Some imports are logged wrong with the dvla when they are imported . A friend bought a classic wrx import and when he was getting insurance quotes it kept coming up as a sport , he re registered it as a wrx before insuring it as the fmic and scoop was a dead giveaway anyways

Yeah that's outta my price range at 3k anyways. I've only got £1k play with atm, just started looking for 2 door shells as well and then ended up looking at whole cars (as you do lol)

I found myself looking at that earlier [emoji5] As I'm getting bored waiting for my brv to break his sti (so I can nick the shell) and was looking at clean import shell prices

Nice looking scoob you've got there fella [emoji106] Always loved the 22b nice choice [emoji41]

Hi and welcome to soc Any modifications or plans for it And Feel free to post some pics of your pride n joy[emoji6]

Stanton you can get a early inlet converted , they blank off the oe throttle body side , fit the throttle body the other side and do the same with the icv . You do have to relocate the alternator and extend a few wires ect as well , but it can be up n running for under £500 [emoji6] The phase 1 inlet set up has a snorkel on the turbo (hence why early tdo's have to be converted to front entry) so the intake pipe doesn't have to run under the manifold Thats a pic of my brvs v1 sti when he first got it I'll try to find a better pic

I've been thinking along the same lines as you with removing/simplifying the intake route (as im running maffless esl) I've been thinking about using the phase 1 (v1&2) inlet and fitting a snorkel to the turbo inlet , so the intake pipe passes over the inlet manifold . Also considered flipping the fmic core and inlet manifold to try and shorten the fmic pipework as much as possible .

Double post

Found this thread with a how 2 for the vf series http://m.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197287&styleid=15 I think I'll eventually clock mine , as I like something different and it means that the compressed air doesn't pass over the hotside[emoji6]