savage bulldogs

I'm unsure which setting the dccd box would run without the controller set up you'll have to google that ,and both box codes to see if the ratios are the same (otherwise you'll need the classic diff as well) . Physically it will fit but pending on the year of your blob would need to switch a few other bit's around , Imo id either save for a 6 speed box or buy a later blob 5 speed as they'd both probably be stronger and therefore cheaper in the long run

It's a bit of a minefield lol Some full systems also come in different length to standard sections . they have a longer downpipe , shorter center sections and longer back box pipework

Dunno about newage but for classics, They do make them like that so the 2.5" end mates up with the standard downpipe and the 3" end mates up with a bigger bore aftermarket back box . They also make 2.5" both ends for standard size set ups and 3" both ends for a full 3" turbo back . All with either resonated or non resonated center sections (latter one being louder)

clive attowe @ norwich can do ecutek and he's a good mapper , got 347 hp @ 1.2 bar on a tdo5 ,440's ,gt headers fmic on my brvs v1 sti running apexi .it was only the injectors on the standard pressure holding it back (90% indutiy ). I haven't done much research on ecu's for a while but , id love alcertek with a toucan touch screen ,isn't there one thats big over the pond for newage "carbery " I think its called. dunno if it works on the later classics as well though

Oh that makes a bit more sence about the steering wheel not being in the correct position when they reconnected the track rod ends , as that might cause it to be of centered , but i think only if they completely removed or loosened one of the track rod ends . I'd ask them to put it right as they obviously did something to cause the problem in the first place .

Needed a sat nav to find this thread lol I need to source a few more bit's for mine before I book anything , but I am talking to simon next weekend so can ask him about costing then . any idea what ecu /software you'll be using /needing . I have already spoke to clive attowe (norwich roling road) and got a £100 per hour deal for use of the rolling road . believe me once you get over 300 hp in a lightweight classic you don't wannabe mapping on the road due to 3rd gear wheelspins and running out of road before you hit the limiter in fourth ;-)

Vvt variable valve timing which adjust the timing during certain rev ranges to get the most out of the cams . can't see that making it more awkward as it's just different cam pulleys and a few extra wires/ sensors. As far as the car pulling to the left because the wheels weren't straight when refitting the engine I doubt that very much . if the trackings ok I'd start by checking that all droplinks ,balljoints and bushes are tight around the front wishbones , just in case they've not tightened something up . also I wouldn't drive it to far untill it's been resolved as if something is loose it might cause a accident .

Nice choice matt :-) When and where are you having it mapped ? As I'm gonna book jgm @ attowes rolling road Norwich end of march , dunno if that's to far away from you but ,if not we could do a joint booking get it a bit cheaper ;-)

I think v5/v6 (my 99/ 00) can be mapped by ecutek (licenced software) same as newage V3/v4 (my 97/98) had a different code to other ecu's as the earlier we're esl capable and the later were ecutek capable . It only got decoded a couple of years ago to run the esl software . fitting is usually for the full apexi set up, boost controller,boost solenoid, and map sensor but you won't buy the full set up for £350 anyways .

The standard ecu can't be mapped unless you have a esl daughter board fitted which allows you to use open source software (don't need to pay a licence fee) to remap it . I chose this option for my 97 classic due to it being capable of running duel maps and maffless (scooby maffs are prone to failure) also now have some extra options available at a extra cost launch control flat throttle shifting and (I think) anti lag Quite cost effective at about £600 supplied fitted and duel mapped (hi /low boost maps). Apexi are also a great bit of kit but are about £350 second hand + fitting+mapping . if you intended to aim close to 350 hp I'd consider changing your 380 cc grey injectors for some 440cc yellows(about £40 second hand) as their good for about 350 max and fit them the day before you map , you'll also need some phase adapters as the yellows are phase 2 side feeds and your 97 version 3 will be phase 1.5 side feeds (mark @ lateral performance sell the adapters and offer a injector cleaning service) I'd also echo jay with doing a service and check that the cam belt is in good order before squeezing more power out of it .

Most subaru blocks and heads have ## raised marks on (i think they serve as sort of cooling fins) Only closed deck blocks have them under the alternator near the crank sensor ;-) If it's running the original engine it will be a open deck but , the uk internals would be the limiting factor I'm afraid. I wouldn't want to push those past 350 hp but that's generally the limit of the drivetrain anyways . Has the car been remapped already ? If so what ecu/daughter board has it got ? The standard 97 uk td04 turbo and 380 cc injectors would normally max out at about 300 hp , so I went for a walbro fuel pump (for piece of mind) ,sti tmic and a esl daughter board remap . Imo 300 hp is plenty in a lightweight classic and if you've still got the standard 2 pot fronts I'd upgrade to at least 4 pots before you aim for much higher horses ;-)

Hi and welcome to soc . Nice clean looking scooby you've got there fella :-) Any mods present or future ?

How did you get on with the zorst matt is it much louder de catted ? Where did you find that temp sensor and did it come with a fitting kit fella ?

Been busy so im a bit late with this but here you are anyways just bear in mind that mine is a v3 so there might be a few differences . this pic shows the black and white part in your pic number 4 it runs from the black and white bit(just visable under the grey plug) to a t piece ,1 end off the t goes the the inlet (near the actuator in my pic) the other end goes to the black part on the big bore pipe off the canister in my second pic . hope it makes sence lol. clive

She's a goodn my mrs ;-) already bought me a ps4 hence why I haven't been on here very much lately as I've been enjoying the 64 player mayhem on bf4

Yeah my projects taken a back seat due to having more work than I can fit in during the week and being a self employed plasterer ,I can't justify turning work away so haven't got the time to play scoob :'( Saying that it's my birthday at the end of march the mrs has said she'll buy me a few bit's decat downpipe cone filter intake temp sensor (to help with fuel trim due to running maffless) 2 pot rear conversion brackets/pads and a remap once all the above and the hdi fmic are fitted :-) So hopefully I'll be taking a long birthday weekend off and getting stuck in with some updates then . Cheers for the comments , clive

Try checking the condition / gaps on your spark plugs as boost is known to "blow the spark out" if their gapped incorrectly /worn . It would show a misfire fault code if you follow the steps in the link above to check your ecu codes yourself

I've got a few pics of the v3 / v4 inlet set up which shows the recirculation valve plumbed in im sure the v5/v6 set up has the recirculation valve directly fitted to the tmic ( like newage) and unfortunately I don't know where the pipework runs for those

I ran a cobra sports cat (great bit of kit for the money) on my standard classic for 3k miles without a remap and had no issues but, maybe just have a power run / check up on a rolling road for piece of mind seeing as it's been mapped already

Nice progress tlag :-) Soon be up n running at this rate well done fella . + 1 with the collets and the strangely magnetic effect they have on needle nose pliers lol

Do you know if they only made 200 in total or per year ? As mabye yours might have been the 3rd one made on the 2nd year of production. I'll ask a mate that's owned a couple of catalunyias as he might be able to clear things up for you fella

mines a v3 my 97 so there's probably a few differences with the vacuum set up the small bore metal pipe from the rad connects to the bottom of the white expansion bottle and a short length of pipe connects to the yellow cap and pokes through the hole in the inner wing which acts as over flow (not connected to anything at the other end ) I think the pipe from the charcoal canister connects to the underside of the flexi tube (the pipe between the maff and under inlet intake pipe) via a plastic elbow. although I've recently replaced my vacuum pipework I cant remember where the rest go but if its dry enough when I get back from work i'll have a look over the weekend fella

I've always liked the sound of a v8 but due to the road tax and fuel costs I settled for a 2.5 v6 vectra . Then got bored with the performance so i Added a 3ltr 24v omega engine .then found out that 250 hp + fwd = getting stuck in the snow with a 20 min journey taking 3 hrs . decided overnight that my next car would be 4wd couldn't afford a rs4 (v8 ) so decided that a boxer powered scoob would be the best choice for practicality , power , handling and the noise . 2.5 years , full engine build , transmission change and a 17 yr old car thats made up of more shiny new bits than old ...... And the only thing I wonder is why I didn't buy one sooner :-)

Yeah I used a air saw to elongate the original hole's ;-) I did used to have a 2k kenwood mono block amp, 3k 12" vibe space series sub and two battery capacitors (to stop the battery drain) but , I found myself turning the music down to hear the spool n burble . so I sold it all and bought a 3" jasma zigen cat back much better soundtrack lol

I just removed the resonator box from under the drivers side wheel arch !Removed! guard to help with air flow .It then draws more cold air from under the wheel arch. as for speakers I think my vibe fronts are 6.5 inch and I bought some spacers of egay to fit those and a tin opener to fit the vibe 6x9 's on the back shelf lol I run a alpine head unit with a 8 gb stick with most of my music on