savage bulldogs

Have you got braided brake lines nick ? As they're supposed to improve pedal feel ;-) I have got them on mine but ,they were the only mod it had when I bought it so I don't know how much difference they make .

Jammy bugger :-D I must have spent 3hrs or so trying to split my casings lol looking good keep the pics comming bud :-) I was advised to use a few things on my build (by a rally engine builder) subaru exhaust stem seals for inlet and outlet cos their made for higher temps (different lesser composite vitron rubber used for the inlets) . Group N cork sump gasket. The earlier hydraulic timing belt tensioner rather than the later spring loaded one (as they're stronger) And I went for a gates kevlar timing belt as I've read they're made in the same factory as the cossie ones but about £80 cheaper . sorry if I'm" teaching my gran to suck eggs " as I know your a scooby veteran Tlag but ,just thought I'd share what few £'s saving advice I've been given ;-)

Some nice tweeks to a nice looking scoob there ben :-) I'm not normally a fan of wrapping tbo , but that's freshened up the console nicely bud

Have any of you seen this one of a scooby giving a ARTIC a tow in the snow Watch "Subaru STI trage un tir din zapada" on YouTube Makes it look easy as well lol

Yeah oil pump choice is s minefield of options I went for a rcm pump which is standard in size/ pressure but, has a uprated pressure relief valve to safeguard against failure . As I'm not running a aftermarket oil cooler and didn't think it was necessary to increase the oil pressure. I've got a few classic bit's in the man cave that might be of use ... nearly new rad ,3 port boost solenoid , v3 sti inlet manifolds, tmic and pipework . so if you do need anything that you can't source locally drop me a pm fella and I'll help out if I can ;-)

Ah sorry matt didn't have a look at the thread as it was no use to my v3 ,just saw the title when trawling for scooby scraps , Think they normally go for about £350 with the controller don't they ?

Hmmm shiny :-) Yeah I've never built a engine thats supposed to be noisy before ( dont get me wrong its only a ticking noise ) but ,It's probably the only thing I regret about the choices I made for components on my build, as I only went for the 750 hp ones to match the Brian crower rods . what oil pump are you going to use tlag and are you gonna go fmic straight away due to your tmic having to many entries ?

There's a apexi v5/v6 for sale on scabby net ;-) My brv runs a apexi fc , boost solenoid and boost controller in his v1sti works well .the only thing that I think is not as good as ecutek , esl and simtek is it only monitors knock (shows loads of info on the hand controller though) but doesn't !Removed! the timing to reduce it (automatically) otherwise I can't fault it Also esl and simtek have the ability to run maffless , launch and flat throttle shifting if you wanted to .

Nice shopping list :-) Are you getting the 2618 race spec with Teflon coated skirts or the 4032 's ? As I've found the 2618' s to be a bit over kill for my build (road car) and therefore still noisy during normal driving temps . My engineer was well impressed with the quality though and they do quiten down but only when spanked hard

Nice work matt , scoob looks great fella. loads different from the first few pics , much meaner with a touch of stealth (if that makes sense lol ) How did you get on with the back box bud ?

Yeah I like seeing something outta the ordinary and learning a few things along the way. Tlag how will you overcome the single turbo from twin turbo loom and ecu differences ? Or is it just a case of swapping the ecu / engine loom from a single turbo version and swapping that devils box full of solenoids for a 3port

Glad you got the box sorted (braver man than me lol) I helped a mate of mine break his jun 2.1 stroker classic last year :'( His 550 hp engine went in this it had a 450 hp newage sti engine in but , he said it didn't "wheelie " enough. I bet it does now lol Anyways as tlag said they fit in a camper but ,im unsure what box to use for power and have no idea how you get around the cooling system differences

been looking forward to a update on this thread B) are you going to get the bores " pinned" on the 2.5 block or will the scd be ok for your target power ? what injectors are you intending to use to run it in ? as I used the standard ones that were in my uk turbo (380cc) which max out at 300 hp so that kept things simple for the base running in map ;) then the day before the td remap i fitted a fpr and some nissmo 555cc injectors which I'd had flowed by mark at lateral as there good for just over 400 which ample for the td05 on a 2ltr running a exedy stage 1 clutch

Hello to the red faced 12 plate civic type r on the A14 trying to undertake me 3 times today :-) Yeah I know he's probably never look on here, but his passenger gave me the thumbs up whilst he hung his head in shame when I saw him a petrol station afterwards . Numpty saw me come past in 6 th doing about 55 and tried to undertake me I just hit the throttle and the lag kept me just in front of him .i slowed down for a lorry that was about to pull out and once we passed it he swerved into the inside lane and tried again but I was in 4th @ 3k this time (not a chance civic boi) . Finally stopped at the roundabout side by side and he tries again by the time I got in 4 th this time he was a distant speck in the rear view mirror lol . I don't condone racing on public roads (all this took place within the speed limits anyways ) and I'm not normally baited into it tbo but ,I hate people that swerve from lane to lane , without indicating and especially trying to undertake me when I'm keeping a safe distance from the car in front . Mabye next time he sees a 17 yr old scooby he'll think twice ;-)

I'd have a look on here http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts.asp?page=1&cat=96⊂=97&sec=143&var=60&dc=0&gen=&searchKey= Id make sure you get the "half moons" as well cos they get brittle over time . I'd also consider changing the spark plugs (if their due ) as you'll have good access when it's stripped to do the rockers

As tlag said surprised you haven't got any codes . when i replace the oil and filter I pull the crank sensor plug off to stop it firing and turn it over to get the oil around the engine prior to starting . I've never had a code come up once I've plugged it back in and started it, so maybe check the connection to that and a few of the other sensors. Failing that have you tried putting a old spark plug in one of the ht leads and holding it to a bolt on the bodywork (earth) with some insulated pliers and getting someone to turn it over . You should be able to see if it's sparking . best of luck fella

Glad to hear you're making better progress with the insurance company fella :-) Not so glad to her about the scooby misbehaving :-( Any joy with finding a suitable replacement ? If not I'd chuck a wanted post up on a few forums ,as you can check some of it's history by doing a search of the previous posts the seller has made ;-)

Halfrauds do one Ihttp://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=203553&categoryId=255216&langId=-1&catalogId=10151&ddkey=http:SearchCmdMobile I've used it before when fitting a few 5 and 6 speed scooby clutches. make sure you use the torque settings and some threadlock as well ;-)

Did you have the noise before you changed the diff oil ? Maybe you didn't tighten something / disturbed something whilst tinkering . my first guess (seeing as tried zorst and shocks) would have been gear box stabiliser ("dog bone " mount at the top of the gearbox) or engine mount, due to it happening during engine brake are you sure it's coming from the back ? Maybe get someone in the back to try to narrow it down Otherwise mabye try checking for worn bushes around the propshaft uj , drop links ,diff braces ect . it's probably something minor....... mabye just get a 3" decat you'll never hear it again :-D

We're unsure of the type of rotas im afraid, as they were on it when he bought the car a couple of years ago . he's away till next weekend so can't ask him the offset but ,they easily clear 4pots and are definitely 17 's .

My brvs classic runs rotas only got this pic of it slammed ,when we first fitted the olins coil overs . It shows the offset being on the limit though as the wheels only just tuck under the arches ;-)

I quite like a classic in red as you dont see to many .matt how many scoobs have you owned ?(greedy boi lol) As for me at 21i had a Mk1 astra gte ,wish I still had it as they go for silly money now :-(

Glad to hear your getting a few parts together already and sounds like you had a result with the tdo5. If you're aiming for 340 my brv s classic has 347 with fmic , tdo5 , gt headers and 440 cc injectors (yellows) . will admit the injectors are running at 92% (nearly maxxed out) but the tdo5 is only running at 1.2 bar . as for pistons have a look on the "advance automotive" website as their mahle pistons are reasonably priced , for a quality piston . I'd go for the 500 hp rated ones though as the race spec 750 hp ones iv got are noisy ,even when warm and only quiten down when being spanked hard (ooh err mrs lol)

I think most of the wheels above look sweet I'm rather partial to a set of revolution millenniums myself on a classic ;-)

Hi and welcome to soc fella I've changed a few boxes / clutches so here's a few tips you'll need to be able to clear the bellhousing on removal , you'll need to get the car up high on 4 axle stands . drop the oil outta the box as you'll loose most of it outta the prop seal front drive shafts have split pins on the inner cv's but you'll have to break the balljoints to withdraw shafts from the box. They've got a "push " clutch so you'll need to remove the (10mm I think) allen key bung from underneath the starter motor in this pic and withdraw the clutch pivot pin buy using a small (cam cover size) bolt other than that you'll need to check the flywheel is 100% true or get it skimmed as you might end up with clutch judder once you've fitted the new one .new gearbox oil , spigot bearing (in the middle of the flywheel) turbo outlet and down pipe to catback gasket . Otherwise it's fairly the same as any rwd box change . if you get stuck chuck me a pm . Clive