savage bulldogs

Rm performance in banbury, isn't too far from you . Mick knows his Subaru's really well

Sorry it's taken a while to reply to this , bit manic around here atm . You have pm @gemlp82

Have you done a classic self ECU code check and did any codes come up if you did ? Theres a "how 2" in the tech section on here, if you haven't checked for codes and reset the ECU . Few things worth checking... Spark plugs ... check gaps and colour , as this might indicate a lack of spark (wet with petrol ) or bone dry (lack of fuel) . Check engine loom plugs (near clutch slave and battery) , engine loom earth (near fuel hard line to fuel filter connection on the inlet ) and injector plugs . Are all free from corrosion, splits in insulation and plugs /bolt are a snug fit . If mechanical compression and timing are good , hopefully it's just something loose or a corroded terminal causing intermittent a loss of spark or fuel . Was the engine running fine before or is the build running in and only had the issue since the build , bud ?

Think most don't like to re grind the turbo cranks , possibly due to the later ones being heat treated or nitrade cranks . I've personally have only ever built turbo variants and had one crank journal very finely polished . It was fine for 65k miles + but it was still within factory clearance on that journal , so I just mixed n matched a stock sized set of acl bearings to bring the clearances to a more even spec . As for one oversized big end bearing, you should be fine in a n/a 1.5r but might have to buy 2 sets of bearings (one oversized set and one stock sized set ) Just bear in mind by the time you've had machine work done , run everything through a hot wash (to clear any debris from the oil galleries) bought new bearings and replacement genuine gaskets ... It might be cheaper to source a 2nd hand replacement engine . Heres a couple of UK companies that supply genuine subaru parts/gaskets . As performance . Import car parts

V1 and v2 are the same scoop . V3 onwards differ with the facelift bonnet 👍

Unfortunately I don't have any experience with the boxer diesel engine but do know some years tend to be more problematic. @Mr B might be able to help ? Otherwise how damaged are the block casings? If finding a decent recon engine is proving difficult, Might be worth getting quotes to rebuild your block instead of replacing ? Few companies that might be able to help .. As performance (Midlands) Rm performance (bandbury ) Enginetuner (Plymouth)

Looks like a relatively standard v1 wrx bay , unfortunately I can't help much with the oe vacuum line set up . As mine wasn't standard when I got it , if you think it sucking in air and increasing idle ? You could get a smoke test done to rule out intake air or vacuum leaks . If not then cleaning the idle control valve is the next cheap thing to try . Get a icv gasket, remove the icv from the inlet , take note which way the o ring and diaphragm face that sit between icv and inlet (for refitting). Clean icv and diaphragm with brake, intake or carb cleaner . Let dry, Refit with new gasket and top up the coolant if necessary. Could try a ECU reset afterwards too , just dont adjust the 2 screws on top of the icv (as these adjust the voltage to the ECU)

I'd have thought anywhere between £300 to £600 pending on condition, service history , recent cambelt ect . Also on what's included ie turbo ,manifold, injectors, tmic ect .

I still can't commit to any major show stands myself atm , solicitor's are dragging their heels a bit with my house move 🙄 But I'll ask some of the other mods and try to find out the usual method to book stands and purchase tickets 👍

I have no experience with autos but most of us use either luke at import car parts or Alyn @asperformance for stock subaru parts . Give them a call with your reg and I'm sure they'll be able to help

Off the top of my head I can't remember the disc diameter but all classic turbo rear discs that fit the single pot sliding rear calipers are the same diameter and 5 x100 pcd . Only difference is the early import and most uk gt varieties have solid rear discs but later ones are vented rear discs . So as long as you buy either vented or non vented to suit that type of single pot sliding caliper that fitted to your car , you'll be fine fella 👍

At 365 hp you'd probably be ok with the standard blue box exedy . If you wanted a bit more headroom but oe pedal feel ,I personally run a pink box exedy and stock 6 speed flywheel at 416hp /388flbs without any issues 👍

Definitely mate , can't fault the service and finish 😎 Finally found a place to order the hockey stick fixings , local subaru main dealer has been very helpful 👍 Hopefully get them refitted at the weekend 🤞

There's quite a few differences in spec between wrx and sti blobeye spec , hence the £4k + price difference. Although the wrx is a capable car , that does its job and is easily unable to around 300hp . it has 5 speed and non forged engine . So if you're aiming for over 350hp ,the sti is a better base . Sti has sportier interior and suspension . Brembo brakes , stronger 6 speed gearbox , stronger forged engine (450hp capable) ,tmic waterspray, bigger turbo and injectors as standard . Theres also the widetrack ,wr1 , spec c , spec d and a few spec differences between them too .

Hi n welcome . Nice clean looking hawk 😎 , are you thinking of doing regular trackdays ? If they're not fitted already , look into a baffled sump and spec c anti surge fuel pump cradle or aftermarket swirl pot set up

Unfortunately even listening to it on a video, its difficult to know where the sound is coming from . Anything from a blowing downpipe ,cracked header , sticky cam lifter or piston slap can sound like knock . Normally low sounding metallic sound that increases in volume and speed with engine revs from 1.5 to 3k

That depends on how bad the damage is and you won't know until its stripped . Worst case top end is probably valves bent ,head chambers pitted ,valve guides need replacing . So a expensive fix and probably better off sourcing new heads (engineers labour would be more than heads are worth) Bottom end ... it a bit of valve has come off and got Trapped between piston crown and cylinder head .. Bent rods ,knackered crank, piston crowns damaged... the list goes on pending on how bad the damage is . I'd add the price a second hand good running engine supplied and fitted to the car cost, as a bear minimum . As it's often a cheaper route if budgets tight and if it works out too expensive. Walk away and save for a running scooby . Tbh bud we could guess what's wrong all day but until you've found out if the compression is good (cheap fix) Or If the Compression is bad and its stripped down , nobody knows what's fubared and what's not

Been busy drinking all the milk and popping out to essentially buy some more 😊 But shes home and pimple free 😎 had the rear bumper and faded wing mirrors painted too , so shes not looking fairly fresh for a 27 year old car 😊 Not too keen on the naked backside ra look . so need to source some rear hockey stick fixings , as Asperformance and icp dont stock em 😏 as I much prefer the hockey sticks and areoguard look it used to have .

Normally go to this with s.o.c , great show 😎 But I'm in the middle of buying a house that needs a lot of work , so can't commit until closer to the time 😏

EJ's are "interference engines " in other words the pistons will contact the valves and valves will contact each other ,if cam and crank are turned independently. Tbh it depends if it's just skipped a few teeth on the belt , it might be ok . If its completely snapped the belt and done a few rotations, its probably at least bent the valves . You could try setting the timing Mark's and fitting a new belt , then turning the engine over a few rotations by hand . If it turns over without locking up , do a compression test to see if the valves are returning into their seats (not bent) and it hasn't damaged a piston crown . If compression is good , plug the ignition fuse back in and see it it will run . If not unfortunately, you'll only really know the full extent of the damage , once the engines stripped

Unsure if na heads have the oil feed and return for a turbo , so you'll probably need at least turbo heads. Id imagine The na runs a higher compression ratio due to not being boosted . Unsure if this is accomplished by different piston crown design, head chamber sizes or gasket thickness. It would simplify things if you had a full turbo donor car engine, loom and ECU . As the stock na ECU and loom won't be able to control boost . Inlet manifolds,engines looms and ecus in classics are different pending on "version". v1 to v4 are interchangeable but v5/v6 run a different inlet port pattern . So there's a few compatibility issues pending on year of car, loom and engine to consider too .Even when fitting another turbo engine to a turbo car , let alone a na Obviously it will be eaiser and cheaper to just buy a turbo version, probably cheaper to insure a oe turbo version too (not modified) I like the diy approach, so will help if I can but unfortunately my na engine spec is pretty much non existent

You've got roads ? I've got small bits of tarmac between the potholes 🙄😂 I'm fairly sure most standard classic shocks are kyb, not sure who make the springs though . Other than elbaich make the oe p1 springs, that suit the sti shock dampening rates really well . There is a difference in rates/dampening between uk/wrx (same) and sti (stiffer /25mm lower) in the springs /shocks pending on model . Think there's a few pics at the beginning of my build thread that show the "stance" of elbaich pro springs. Tbh they felt more forgiving in a straight line than stock but stopped the car wallowing in the corners (best of both worlds). But they're not stock

I have a transmission chart but it only has ty number gearbox info , unfortunately I can't help unless the gearbox number you wrote isn't correct . Did you take the number off the white sticker on the bellhousing near the starter motor ?

I don't have much experience with the 3ltr but I've always drained ej20's via the bottom hose . Colour of anti freeze isn't necessarily the best way to determine what to refill it with . I personally use motul ingul premixed anti freeze (around £40 from as performance) but as long as you use a antifreeze suitable for aluminium blocks (oat) you'll be fine . On the ej20 /ej25 you can buy a oil cooler hose kit , that comes with the 3 silicone hoses and hard pipe that crosses the front of the engine to the waterpump . unsure if the 3ltr has exactly the same set up but worth changing it all if your draining the coolant imo

Coming along well with some nice progress in a relatively short time 😎 I bought some aftermarket uk turbo spec shocks from luke at import car parts but coupled them with elbaich pro springs . He might be able to source oe struts and springs though . If not the elbaich pro springs lower a uk or wrx around 25mm to stock sti height , they're also progressive rate . So are forgiving for pot holes in a straight line but stiffen up under load in the twisties . Failing that a few members have swapped stock suspension for pedders struts and springs .