savage bulldogs

If you need more room to get at the speedo drive ? Could try removing the engine /gearbox stabilizer (dog bone mount on gearbox to bulkhead) supporting the gearbox cradle and undo the bolts ,then lowering the gearbox on a jack to tilt the engine and box . Tbh I don't know if this will give any better access but thought it was worth a mention. Otherwise buy some gearbox oil and prop/front driveshaft seals, downpipe gaskets and drop the box . If you can't get all of the old speedo out you'll either have to strip the box down to remove it or replace the box 😏

Think the best option is to get the ecu codes read to find out exactly what's causing the lights to come up. As it could be nothing to do with the cruise control and disabling cruise might have no affect . Think there's quite a few cheap code readers that work on 2001 + cars , if you don't know a local garage that can help

Gutted for ya fella , hopefully they'll be a warranty in the rebuild work ?

Looks good , I've got a load of presents that need doing , are you anywhere near Suffolk 😊

Not sure if it just cuts spark on the later models or whether fuel prime and supply are also both on the same circuit. My electrical knowledge is limited to v1 to v4 but thought it was worth a shout if he had no battery and eml .

As said above , hopefully it's just a airlock. Let it cool down and check the coolant levels in expansion tank , rad and overflow bottles . Top up if needs it ,jack the front end up and manually "pump" any coolant hoses to try and get any air out. start it up and keep the caps off the coolant bottles. Carefully pump top and bottom rad hoses whilst keeping a eye on coolant levels. If they drop top them up ,once it starts to rise above fill level put the cap back on . When fans cut in check bottom hose gets hotter as the stat should be open by then , Check both heater matrix hoses are getting hot too . If it still overheats , get a sniff test for hydrocarbons in the coolant ,as this is normally the first sign of headgaskets. If it's clear, try draining the system, flushing everything through with a hosepipe and refill. But make sure the headertank doesn't go dry during refilling (coolant in at all times) and pump all coolant hoses during refilling

Does the battery and eml come on when you turn the key ? If not try ignition fuse in the cabin Check the crank and cam sensors wires and plugs . Do you know if you have spark ?

Light ticking can just be normal injector noise and nothing to worry about . Or something as simple as a up pipe /downpipe blowing . But accompanied by burning oil and no boost unfortunately ,it doesn't sound good . Did they do a full rebuild or just headgaskets? If it was a full rebuild did they tell you to do a "running in " process , limiting revs and boost over the first 500 miles (at least)

Did consider wrapping mine nardo gloss grey at one point but didn't think I'd personally make a good enough job of it Looks like you've made a lovely job of the wrapping that though , nice work bud 👍

Decided to make the most of the winter sun and air the car out and clean the interior looks more simplistic with the avcr and apexi f.c screens gone , the oe foglight anti lag and launch switches just blend it too . Talking of anti lag and launch control, unfortunately I still haven't got someone to take a vid of it in motion 😏 but here's a short clip of it spooling the 20g nicely on the spot No flames due to the 2 resonators in the center section and big back box on my trackday system but that noise 😍

Tbh I couldn't tell you what a good price is , I've seen loads up for sale recently and the prices are all over the place . Seing as it's part history and is well overdue a full cambelt kit. If you took it to a garage it would be around £550 in parts for cambelt ,plugs ,dif ,box and engine oil . Probably add another £200 for labour , so I'd want at least that off the price

The 2ltr definitely has a better reputation for reliability and there is a buyers guide in the impreza tech section. As for price its definitely at the top end of blob wrx price range but if its rust free full service history, recent cambelt ect . It does sound like a "good car " Saying that prices are everywhere atm and seeing as clean classics are fetching £6k + I think everyone assumes newer versions are worth more . Unfortunately I dont think that's the case for most examples . as classics hit rock bottom about 6 years ago and the clean ones are now on the up . Whereas most blob /hawks haven't hit rock bottom yet and a lot are failing mots due to rust.

I like a bit of retro petrol, Sorry I can't help ,as my 94 sti has hatch sti seats (neither car or seats are the same ) I'll gladly take some measurements if you want ? I do know a breaker in bury st Edmunds (suffolk) that has a full wrx interior for around £100 (maybe less I can't remember) Jdm solutions Suffolk on f.b , Jacob is very helpful and im sure he will measure seat rails to seat base and seat width if you ask him .

Hi n welcome, nice looking gc8 😎 although you seem to have a few issues , if you're not bad with a spanner , it doesn't sound too expensive 👍 Hopefully replacing the injector seals will resolve the leak and idle at the same time . 🤞

I felt the abs on my old uk turbo felt like it was kicking in too early and the brakes were inadequate. New front and rear aftermarket discs, 4 pot fronts (to replace the oe 2 pots) and pads made a fair bit of difference. My current 94 sti doesn't have abs and has always felt much better under hard braking , well in the dry anyways

It shouldn't be arching there , so I'd say something isn't right . Could try swapping the ht leads and see if the arching moves , to rule them out first . Otherwise I'd say get a second hand coilpack ,bud

I used flux for about 7 years and always found Dan very helpful but when some numpty hit my scooby a few years back flux overall were shocking. Only then did I find out I didn't have agreed value , although the car was heavily modified with all mods declared . Although I was paying close to £700 per year with limited mileage and over 10 years ncb. Then they sent a assessor to value the car , who said it was a lovely rare example with some expensive mods. But 2hrs later the body shop got a call saying it will be wrote off (as they valued it at only £2.5k ) and they were sending a truck to take it away . My gearbox would cost over £1.5k , let alone , the forged engine, aftermarket ecu ,brembos ect ... Luckily enough the body shop refused to let flux "steal" my car and called me straight away instead . After a few calls directly to the actual insurers and a apologies from both of them , the car was repaired and not categorised (minor damage) . Currently insured with RH classic insurance, agreed value , all mods listed ,recovery ,£2k worth of spares and fully comp for under £500 . Which I think is pretty good for a 26 year old sti ,400hp + and £9k value Unfortunately you only really find out how good a insurance company is ,until you try to make a claim . @ROSSCOSM could you not just let the last years ncb go and keep the previous years that you'd built up ? Then insure something in the new year ,instead

Sorry chaps only just noticed this and the pm . Think I gave the info ou needed on another page ? Let me know if you need anymore advice though @Saj.81

Think Darren at abw sells most panels in fibreglass and a few wide arch kits too 😉

It looks like a clean example to start with , mind you you don't know what is lurking under that underseal . For reference it's a version 4 uk turbo , as Subaru years and versions can be a little confusing at the best of times . If you do need any repair panels or sections have a look at "automotive repair panels " on f.b . Ray sells good quality and fitment panels ,at a fraction of main dealer costs . All the best and keep us posted on the progress 👍

I've seen them up from , anywhere between £6k to £10k , top end would be bog standard, rust free , low miles with good history. Bottom end probaly modded with rusty arches . One of my favourite versions the v2sti ra , so chuck up some pics if you do buy it 😊

Sorry to hear this still hasn't been resolved but glad to hear your still fighting it and will hopefully get something back . Keep us posted with your progress and all the best getting the result you deserve 🤞

Dont know how close they are to you but could try RM performance in banbury. Mick certainly knows his boxer lumps

As above , boot seals ,rear lights and rear lower boot vents are the usual culprits. Removing the carpet / boot trims and dry everything out . Then line the area that the leak seems to be in with paper towels /kitchen roll and use a hose at the lower parts 1st (round lights , lower boot edges ). Check paper ,if nothing try higher up around the boot seal , then around the spoiler fixings to try and locate the leak . The boot lids are not insulated, so you will get minor condensation if it's cold outside and heating on inside but the moisture already in the boot will add to that

A lot of uk turbos have been scrapped due to rot and Jdm's do come better equipped (so do tend to command more money ) for a long while even uk "limited" versions were considered to be worth less , as they're generally uk turbo spec with different trim but now clean rb5's ,terzos, mcrae and catalunyas are commanding strong money . I think it will be a while before uk turbos are worth over £5k but the rarer they get the more the price will rise . Its always nice to hear a classic is being restored and as jay said feel free to start a build thread .To log your progress and help other owners be more familiar with their classics .