savage bulldogs

I think me the mrs and my 2 daughters had "the vid" in mid February, as not many colds or flu tend to affect us all at once . Mid February all 4 of us were proppa ropey for 5 days , temperature, cough and lack of smell /taste . My wife works at a school so we've all had 2 tests since lockdown and both came back negative. I feel for the people in the "social industries " not being able to work or know whether they'll have a job to go back too . But I also have a lot of respect for the elder generations that are more likely to fall seriously unwell if they catch it . So I'll continue to do my bit for the elder people who have done much more for this country in the past , than we'll ever hope to . Get well soon mr n mrs @Tidgy 👍

I just thought it would probably be a sub £500 fix for the stuff you listed . So get the work done and take it to another less screwdriver savage tester , then if you still fancy a change in a few months ... sell it on or trade it in for a much higher value , then what you would get for it as a mot failure 😉

Might be the bearing cases are being pinched , as I say I haven't heard of this happening before . I can see if I can find r160 rear hub dimensions in the services manual at the weekend if you want ? Otherwise I'd suggest to buy the bearings from Asperformance, as he'll know exactly what ones suit your car and always supplies tried n tested parts

I had to buy a 5x 100 bug /blob sti space saver to clear brembos once I'd fitted them . So know there's at least 2 types of 5×100 space savers for v1 to v8 , unsure if they're any bigger in diameter. Though . Bear in mind The bigger tyre profile would probably add a inch to the diameter , compared to the low profile on 18's

I have only ever fitted one set of gc8 rear bearings and had a local garage press them into the hubs, so only fitted the hubs really . Cant say I've heard of this issue before but I'd imagine there's at least 2 types of rear bearings. To match either r160 or r180 types of rear diff /hub assemblies . Are they definitely the right bearing and torque settings, not had a diff assembly swap at some point ? Have you measured up the hub bearing carrier , if it's out , it could be putting pressure on the bearing casings and "nipping" the bearings? Most use import car parts or Asperformance for cheaper genuine subaru parts

Does sound a bit harsh and if the car was cold when tested, it would be rich especially with a sports cat . Unfortunately you wont get much for it as a mot failure , post the failure sheet up . It might not be too expensive to get the rot completely cut out .

Looks quite clean for the year tbh bud 😎 Remove the boot trims , and check back of suspension turrets , behind rear arches, wheel wells (towards rear lights ) , where outer rear 1/4 skin and inner rear arch meet , rear bumper arch fixing points and rear inner sills (towards front of rear arches) Front bumper bars, battery tray and lower cross member (under rad) are about the only other usual culprits Have a chat with Ray at automotive repair panels on f.b , he stocks most section that are prone to rusting . Good luck with it bud 👍

Tbh I don't know of any regular posters with high hp fozzies on here , myself but someone might spot this and know someone. Either way great numbers , feel free to start a build thread to share what you've achieved and future work. Especially with pics , we like pics .😊 Easiest way I find to downsize pics off a phone to a uploadble size is screen shot them then try to attach them 👍

Yeah clive attowe did the map on the apexi with those injectors, I told him to expect a call from you and sure he'll keep it to a ty52 safe (ish) 330hp /300flbs 😉 Just tell either Clive or dale the apexi f.c /nismo injectors are from my car and he should know who you are Gary 👍

Personally haven't seen to many high hp fozzies over here , nice figures though 😎 Bet that surprises a few people at the lights lol

Did think it might not work on a standard ECU tbh but dont know that much about the later standard ecus. Other than v5 onwards impreza ecus can be remapped with ecutek licenced software or other open source options . Esl and alcatek boards can be fitted into the the standard ECU cases .link also fit but are a complete replacement plug in ECU. (So will need a external resistor added inline to use the maf wires ) I'd imagine both esl and alcatek would work without a added external pull up resistor from v3 onwards though . Thanks for taking the time to show how you used the maf plug to send the ait sensor signal into the ECU. This will be useful to anyone running esl or alcatek on a v3 onwards, that wants to run mafless and use a ait sensor for intake temperature fuel trims , nice work 👍

No probs fella, glad it went to a good home and Alyn @asperformance could source those phase adapters 😎 just make sure the mapper holds the tdo5 and 555cc nismo combo torque and hp back a bit ..... or you'll need to add a stronger gearbox to that list ,shortly after mapping 😉 As for modifying scoobies, it's a slippery slope as soon as you start 🙄😂

Thanks for the write up , are you able to do this on a stock ECU? What year /version is this on , so other members can make use of this 👍 When connecting the a ait via the maf wires on my link g4x ECU you have to fit a external pull up resistor. So you usually connect the V1/V2 ait via the link expansion board , so you can select one of the links internal pull ups . As there's no pull ups available on the stock pins for maf on 92 to 95 imprezas afaik .

Thanks for making the team aware , I logged in to find a notification that the spamming "new members" had been warned then banned .... Needless to say if anyone else get this or any other sort of message containing a link , don't open it and report it to a team member pls . Tbh I'm a bit gutted I didn't get a invite message , could've brightened up a otherwise dark n damp weekend 🙄😂😂

Yeah I remember buying the first uk turbo and telling the wife "just a exhaust and remap and I'll be happy "🤐🤔😂😂 All that remains of the original v3uk is drivers side rear door , front bumper , rear mid level spoiler and passenger interior kick panel 😂 I'm sure if I just spent the cash in one lump I could've built the mechanicals and had it up n running in a month 🙄 I'd have been bored and probably single , for spending £10k in a month . So here I am 8yrs and 80k views later, after spending just £5k . still fettling, learning and trying to find cheaper options along the way 😎. Certainly looking forward to a covid free spring next year 🤞 ,so I can go to a few shows and down the 1/4 at santa pod 😊

Cheers @Jay762 will admit it's nice to finally achieve what I set out to do 😎400+hp on a sub £5k budget (engine ,6 speed ,fuel system and turbo ) . I will admit the apexi and z32 maf would have achieved this but I do like the extra features of the linkg4x. I do miss the f.c hand controller ,for checking peak parameters while driving 😏 So will have to add a toucan to the list now 🙄😊 Im loving the way it drives and the noises it makes , so even though it's a little bit less than mid 400's....I'm gonna leave the power mods alone for now. There's always room for improvement elsewhere and I'll definitely find something scooby to do . To keep this thread going and my idle hands busy 😉 Seeing as the fuelling was a little bit out on the way up to enginetuner and she had a dam good spanking on the dyno . I decided she's been a good girl , so I'd treat her to a drop of fresh millers nanodrive and jdm black filter . Phoned Alyn @Asperformance at 11am yesterday , was on the door matt at 10pm the next day 😎 She's still filthy for doing 800 miles in 2 days , so if its dry tomorrow I'll give her a bath too 😊

So a 2.30 am start yesterday to drive off boost to Plymouth to see Martyn @Enginetuner 🤪😥. 5hrs , 330 miles and one tank of fuel later I arrived and he got to work fitting the link knock sensor he supplied, then showed me round his workshop /premises 😎 Then got stuck in with a fresh base map and started to add boost , quick vid of him working his magic on my old girl . With the maf deleted and the ramair filter, she sounds pretty epic imo ,as for anti lag and launch... that just sounds pure filth 😍 I'll take a vid of that at some point too but was the 630 mile round trip worth it ..... Hell yeah 😂 The drive home was much more fun with 416.8 hp/ 388flbs and anti lag and launch control 😲😎 He said the engine was quiet in the det cans and nice n strong , the arashi tdo5 20g had more to give if I'd fitted a stronger actuator spring but we left it as is . As it hits 1.5 bar at about 3.8k and I'm more than happy with how it performs 😎

Is the engine from the same model /year / country ? As they're is a few differences in cam pulley types and between uk and jdm and different "versions" Could try removing the cam sensor and looking at the back of the pulleys for the timing pick up Mark's, then comparing the Mark's on the original engine pulleys. I'm fairly up to spec on classics and know they have less pick up points on the crank sprocket than newage. Also sure I read that some uk and jdm swaps on newage require the cam and crank sensor pins need to be swapped around but I only think I read that about pin swapping, don't know for sure

The ECU needs a speed input so if the mechanical speedo drive isn't working , the clocks won't be able to send a signal to the ECU (hence limp mode) . Normally it's the "R" clip that fails that holds the top and bottom sections of the cable together but if you're sure it's the bottom connection to the gearbox speed sensor that's failed , either Alyn at Asperformance or luke at import car parts will probably have the lower speedo cable in stock 😉

Nice to meet @Falcongary today and nice to know my trusty apexi f.c and 555 nismos have gone to a good home ,too😎 Chucked the interior of the car back together and took it for a little drive today , as Martyn had set the ECU up with high long term fuel trims and set a few safeguards up (soft cut for afr , turned boost off ) afr was surprisingly good for a 30 min remote tweek at part throttle but when under load (up hill) I could see the afr was out a bit . So drove around the block , back up the same hill and the afr was better . So well impressed with the way Martyn has set up the safeguards and long term fuel trim gains . Also means I'm more confident driving it all the way to Plymouth . not looking forward to a 2am wake up on Wednesday or the 300 mile journey from Suffolk 😥 But I'm definitely looking forward to meeting Martyn ,shaking his hand (well covidly safe rubbing elbows lol) and the 300 mile journey home with (hopefully) more ponies ,anti lag and launch control 😎🤞

Removed the 555cc nismos ,fitted the 740cc nismos and updated the map on the linkg4x with the 740cc deadtimes. Started and run ok but a bit rich with hunting idle . I've learned a fair bit lately about fuelling and lambda targets, so think I could probably get the afr closer myself . Unfortunately, I don't know enough about idle control or enrichment tables to create a base map that's close enough to just need a slight fuelling tweek 😏 I'm sure I'll continue to learn and maybe one day have the experience to adjust everything on the link but for now a quick call to Martyn at enginetuner.... after downloading a remote app and about 20 mins of his time online she was idling smoothly 😎. Then a 15 minute drive around the block and he'd remotely tweeked a off boost map in nicely 🤓😊 So impressed with his work that I've booked in next Wednesday for a full map by Martyn, not looking forward to the 300mile off boost trip to Plymouth but I an looking forward to the 300 mile journey on the way home 😊 So injectors and apexi f.c are out and ready to be collected when you are @Falcongary 😉

@Falcongary pm'd about apexi and 555cc nismos 😊 Guess I'd better get out there in the cold 😥 and get your stuff outta my car 😊😉

Linkg4x finally fitted 😎 Ait sensor, link 3 bar map sensor ,tps and canbus connection for my aem x wideband all fitted , set up in the menus and calibrated. Maf removed and ram air filter fitted ,along with oe 3 port boost solenoid reconnected. Still got to remove the avcr sensors and apexi map sensor but they're no longer connected . Started off just starting it on the linkg4x base map , it ran with a low pig rich idle but revved cleanly to 3k . Added the rough 555cc nismo dead times I found on the net .... Ran much closer to target afr's and still revs cleanly but does hunt a bit on idle . I've just added the bigger 740cc nismo dead times to the main fuel settings and will fit the bigger injectors before I start it up again 😉 @Falcongary Ive been reading up and watching a lot of vids for a few years , as I've always been interested in mapping . Tbh it's starting to sink in now I'm actually changing settings and seeing the difference it makes to afr and general running . As for the apexi f.c , I offered it to you first fella and was intending on p.m'ing you now its removed . Did you just want the apexi f.c , map lead add on lead , map sensor and hand controller? Or the 555cc nismo injectors as well , to bring the current map on the apexi f.c in closer to your mods (save some mapping time) . Either way most of its removed and I'm hoping the rest will be out tomorrow , if its dry 🤞

Spent a bit of time trying to figure out the best position to fit the ait sensor 🤔 My Frankenstein inlet was originally from a early ra and has the 5th injector port blanked off but it's now not just after the throttle body .Due the the throttle body being on the reverse side of the inlet manifold 🙄 I also think that it would suffer from heatsoak and give false readings fitted directly into the ally inlet 😉 Just before the throttle body would be ideal but its directly above my "unguarded " auxiliary belt, I've never had a auxiliary belt fail before but was worried if it did fail it would hit the ait sensor and "send it " into the inlet manifold. Other option was above the dump valve but that's a bit too close to the rad and might suffer from heatsoak too 😏 Eventually I settled on notching the fmic to throttle body joiner , so I could fit the ait sensor close to the throttle body but it not being above the belt 😉 After taking a list of pins and wire colours I sleeved the expansion board and canbus wires . Unwired the hako interface (for connecting to the apexi f.c) from the wideband and ecu . As it's the first time I've fitted and set up a linkg4x ECU I didn't want to totally remove the apexi f.c yet , just in case I cant get it running well enough for the 60 mile trip to the mappers 🤞 So wideband canbus connected to the ECU canbus pigtail and ait sensor connected to ECU temp 3 /sensor ground pins on the expansion board I don't want race car looking "missile" switches with red covers and would much prefer a more stealthy look . So I'm currently waiting for a couple of classic oe foglamp switches with plugs to turn up . So I've run some wire from expansion loom digital input connections to the dash , ready n waiting for anti lag n launch 😊 So hopefully I'll plumb the link 3 bar map sensor in , plug the linkg4x in , set up map , ait and switches in the menus . Then see how it starts and runs before fitting the bigger 740cc nismos, as the original v1 sti map would only have 380cc injectors. If it runs ok 🤞🤞 then I'll fit the 740cc's enter the latency in the injector set up and try again

Hi n welcome to s.o.c. As above , ecutek software can be used to remap the standard ECU on yours . There's a fair few reputable tuners that use Ecutek, local isn't always the best option. So once you've found a few in your area give them a google ,to find some reviews from previous customers before handing over your pride n joy and hard earned 😉