savage bulldogs

Probably spooled quick and then run outta puff at the top end, as I think most 2.5 ltr turbos have a 8cm hotside and 2ltr has a 7cm . Just check with fastline that you have the right sized oil feed banjo bolts, if they didn't supply them with the turbo 😉

Got a few graphs at different set ups but currently. 94 sti ,self built Forged 2.1 , v4 sti heads ,arashi tdo5 20g ,750cc nismos ,rcm pump ,hdi fmic, linkg4x ECU ect .

Looks nice , coated hotside as well by the looks of it 😎 The vf34 ,is a bug /blob 2ltr jdm sti turbo afaik , is yours a 2.5 ?

Maybe.... but I still ain't getting on no bike @Jay762😂

Popped out to pick my daughter up from work and took a short clip of the new linkg4x ECU anti lag and launch control on the 94sti. Spools the 20g nicely when stationary, hopefully I'll get chance next year to try it at santa pod 😊

I Knew there was a few things that weren't "newage sti saloon spec " on the bug sti wagon but thought I'd mention it ,alongside the saloon sti spec . As it was the only newage sti wagon they made ,impreza wise and has a stronger ej207 and 6 speed too So it gave the op something to compare with, when asking about uk wrx to jdm sti spec 😉 Yeah all those early years for me on scooby net being told how "the uk sti has a weaker engine " only to find out a couple of years ago ... it's not lol I've even seen a bit of evidence to say that the "spec c thick walled block " is weaker due to "machine work notches " near the headstuds weakening the cylinder sleeve walls , too Admittedly the big port heads on some jdm sti versions are the ones to have , though .

You might be lucky and a google of both jdm and uk spec sheets might come up but as tidgy said ,there's not much in it between a uk and jdm wrx wagon . So not many go through the extra expense of importing them . They did make jdm bugeye sti wagons and these would have a much bigger sti jdm to uk wrx spec difference . As the bugeye onwards sti (saloon or bugeye wagon) has 6 speed box ,factory forged ej207 engine, brembos ,bigger turbo ,bigger injectors, brembo brakes, avcs , better suspension, interior, tmic waterspray ect .. The uk wrx compared to jdm wrx would only have the few things I listed in my last post (ratio, possibly avcs) plus maybe trim and interior differences . As they're both aimed at a similar market

I'm not as up to date on my blobeye spec , so not sure if the late uk blobeye wagon will have single avcs heads ? but know the later jdm wrx saloons do have single avcs and early wrx uk salons don't have avcs . There could be a difference in gearbox ratio, as most Jdm's do have shorter gearbox ratios than their ukdm versions . Hopefully someone else who knows their blobeye wagon spec better than me, will chip in 👍

That depends upon year /version tbh , so what sort of shape subaru do you want to compare

Tbh the sigma alarms can be troublesome, I've seen numerous posts over the years of them playing up . I've only ever had one classic with a sigma and sure enough it immobilized my car on the driveway 🙄 I used a mobile alarm fitter to rip out the sigma and fit a thatcham category 2 alarm with integrated turbo timer . Think it was just under £300 for sigma out and new alarm supplied and fitted by Suffolk car alarms

I don't take part in "street racing " and i don't enjoy being tailgated . But I do like watching people swing into the outside lane on a slip lane to over take my retro jap crap .... Only to be left for dust up to 70mph 😂 Guess he'll be taking that beemer back to the garage and cancelling his finance 😊

Popped out to essentially drop my daughter off at work and had a slip lane pull with a 18 plate m3 . I hit boost in 3rd and put 4 car lengths between us 😂 Needless to say I dumped it in 6th at 70mph and once he'd caught up ,his face was a picture as he passed 😂 Built not financed for ftw 😉 Haven't really used the anti lag n launch yet and will eventually get a vid of it in action . but i did flick switch it on and blip the throttle once I got home , she sounds dirty 😊

We quite often pop up to yarmouth as a family, hopefully more often next year if we get rid of the vid 🤞

Lovin that 8 injector set up , nice collection of snails , too bud 😃

It will be a while before I dare spend a significant sum in one go , on the scooby. Definitely pushed the budget out bit this year but its kept us all busy during lockdown lol . You know me Jay , always keen to try something different. So although I know a toucan is probably the easiest option , I'll look into the cheaper tablet/link options first 😊

Think I remember there was a difference in my v1/v2 to v3/v4 , as I'm sure I had to swap my v3/v4 rcm pump into th v1/V2 cage assembly. As @SF5Fozzi said most parts are the same so maybe you can swap the fuel tank float /sender unit from a working later model into your v2 cage ? Are you sure it's the float assembly at fault ? Have you tried checking the pump /sender unit plug connection plug under the drivers side rear seat ? As mine needed to be cleaned up to cure a intermittent gauge /pump priming issue before . Couldn't tell you if there was any other difference between classic versions or later pump assemblies , as I just swapped the pump over into the correct cage for my car .

First place to start would be to get the ECU codes read , hopefully this will point you in the right direction of what's wrong . Most garages will have a subaru odb2 compatible code reader . Or you could either buy a cheap reader or a odb 2 bluetooth adapter and use the torque app on a smart phone .

I'm just gonna ignore this post , someone hurry up n buy it .... Get it out of temptations way pls 😂 Glwts jay 👍

After Hermes delivered the first switches I bought to Scotland 🤔 I finally got round to fitting both oe foglight switches that I'm going to use for anti lag and 2 boost targets. Think I'll eventually like the ,newer style switches and find out how to wire them up so the "foglight led on bulb " lights up when switch is armed . For now I'm happy with the oe look and didn't fancy big red covered "missile switches" I'd already ran both di wires from the link expansion board , so it was just a case of fitting a earth to one pin on the back of the switch and the di wire (from the digital input pin) to the other side of the switch . Then setting up what you want to use the "di pin " for in ECU settings (anti lag ,boost target ect ) and then selecting a pull up resistor on that di pin . This basically sends 5v down the di pin wire and when switch is pressed it, senses the voltage drop and activates that function on the ECU 😉 Martyn had set low boost to 1 bar while it was sat on his dyno , I asked what sort of hp that was and he did a pull .... bang on 350 hp 330flbs . Which tbh is enough in a 1230kg awd car anyways 😉 but it's nice to know there's another 70hp /flbs and anti lag a oe switch away 😎 I do miss the f.c peak display more than I thought I would , so guess I'll be looking into linkg4x compatible tablets or a toucan at some point 😊

Im sure it will run on either stock or the apexi ECU but Now your injectors are nearly twice the size ,you'd definitely not want to use boost . I'd imagine the existing apexi f.c would be closer due to already being mapped for the nismos injector type /size latency 😉 You'll be fine to drive to the mappers off boost though , any questions just what's app me and I'll talk you through em , chap 👍

Nice choice , looks tidy 👍 Not too far from me on the Suffolk coast, I'll keep a eye out for ya 😉

@nyall7no probs bud , I dont get notifications to my phone , so dont always spot other threads . I put a reply on your other thread . Unfortunately, I've never paid to have one fitted but I'd imagine around £600 to supply and fit a clutch .

Exedy blue box is standard in most turbo imprezas , generally good for high 300 hp . Engine out or box out , is down to personal preference. As subaru engines are designed to be removed fairly easily/quickly and it sometimes makes sense if you need to do rocker cover gaskets, cambelt ect too . If you got to a proper place with a lift and transmission jack box would be eaiser , if the front balljoint/hub assemblies come apart easily. Couldn't tell you a cost on fitting , as I've not paid to have one done but would at least fit a new rear crank oil seal and spigot bearing (while clutch is off ) about £40 and a hrs labour . If box is removed , gearbox oil ,downpipe gaskets ,front driveshaft oil seals and new prop shaft seals . If engine is removed downpipe gaskets and coolant .

I've snapped a few grey injectors trying to get them out , after 20 +years they're pretty snug 😏 Are you booked in at attowes yet , as although that map is for those injectors, it's for a 2.1 with different cams . Cant remember what the boost was set at either , as the avcr was controlling boost and not the ECU .