savage bulldogs

Import car parts stock these new 😉 if the mechanical speedo cable isn't sending a signal to the clocks /ecu ,it will probably limit boost and revs (limp mode) . As the ECU needs a speed reading in order to calculate loads

You'll probably get a few different answers pending on your h.p target and usage . Ideally you'd need to pick a h.p target and choose supporting mods to reach it . As if you just pick a big turbo it could be far too laggy for your usage . Also current engine spec would play a part , as the last thing youd want is to spen money on a 600hp turbo only to find out the engines only good for 450hp (if it's a stock ej207)

Nice choice , lovin the leggy 👍

Hi n welcome, what do you drive atm , any pics ? We like pics 😊

Soon as the snow was gone I decided to give it a quick rinse over and take it for a essential "spin dry " Started to dry it off by hand a bit and soon noticed blisters in the paint ,about 30 on the roof alone Some down the drivers side rear 1/4 and on the front bumper It was painted by a reputable company that does bmw main stealer paintwork 3 years ago this april . So thought I'd take it to the body shop that carried out the paintwork , just to see if he had any idea why this happened and how much to put it right . The paint shop is owned by Rick Kerry (ex btcc driver) and he's been painting for over 30 years , so knows what he's doing and has a love of cars (hence why I chose him in the first place ) . We both think the reaction was kick started by the first ever contact with snow , as it was left 6 months to dry before putting it under cover the first winter and this was the first time it had actually seen snow in past 3 winters . He said "that in the 30 years plus he's been painting cars , hes only ever seen it about 8 times" (fml) . He said if it's what I think it is .... it's moisture trapped in between his coats of paint . Basically even though it's done in a oven , the first "pass" skins over due to heat and pushes moisture to the surface. Then the second pass seals the moisture between the coats before the moisture dries . Then to my surprise, he said if that's the case and it's a paint defect , he'll put it right for free When he originally painted it , the only panels that weren't painted were rear bumper ,wing mirrors and bootlid . I've always regretted not getting the whole car done ,as the wing mirrors have paint fade and the rear bumper has a few Mark's. So seeing as he had been so kind after nearly 3 years , I asked him to quote and paint the bits he didn't do first time around . To at least cover the materials for the paint correction, so it wasn't a total loss for him too . I dropped it off friday and Saturday morning he said it's definitely his paint at faults ,as the original coat was sound . Then sends me this pic .... Apparently he doesn't do things by half and all affected panels will be taken back to bear metal , primed and re painted

Had plenty of snow on the Suffolk coast in the end 😎 I've played in the snow in the scooby plenty of times over the years .So I didn't bother going out in it, mainly due to salt but also not wanting some ken block wannabe in a fwd slamming into me either 🤐 Ended up looking like a fugly Tesla cyber truck 😥 Started to melt now , hopefully a few days rain to wash the salt off the roads and I can use it for something essential 🤔

Electrical boost controllers can give the car a little more response and power but definitely need to be set up while monitoring knock and afr . You can't simply turn the boost up and expect the ECU to know how much fuel is needed to match the extra air (boost) or how much ignition timing to use . But gradually bringing the boost up to a safe level while monitoring knock and afr on a dyno , there is gains to be had . But by the time you've paid for a dyno session and a few hrs of the tuners labour ... you might as well get it remapped properly using something like ecutek software. Try disconnecting the vacuum lines off the greddy boost solinoid and reconnect the factory boost solinoid to the actuator and turbo outlet . This should give you stock boost of around 0.6 to 0.8 bar

That's what gave my old v7sti crank rumble @nictriumph👍. The rear seal leaking pressure but not much oil , dropped the oil pressure down 0.8 bar on hot idle. The previous owner didn't notice as he didn't do many miles . Think you'd have seen smoke outta the tail pipe and cold start piston slap, if the rings were bad enough to use 2ltrs in 1k miles . Subaru's don't tend to burn much oil through stem seals due to the flat opposing layout . If the bottom end hadn't been rebuilt after the headgaskets were replaced ? It's a possibility that the initial damage was done by overheating ,burning excessive coolant or pressuring the coolant system with combustion gasses. That could cause a bearing to pinch but the loss of oil would suggest its run low enough for the oil pick up tube not to feed the oil pump . Oil leak and low oil could easily cause crank failure and if the compression is low,wear rings too . I'm sure you'll find out once the teardown is done , are you having it rebuilt to stock spec or fitting forged pistons and stopper headgaskets? Either way best of luck and keep us posted

I wouldn't rely on the app for oil pressure or knock readings , it was more to see if youd noticed a general drop in hot idle oil pressure. Knock is generally either big end or main bearing, more crank orientated rather than rings . So a leakdown and compression test would help diagnose if its piston slap , valve seat or maybe early ringland failure but not crank bearings or rod knock tbh .

Glad to hear the court results went in your favour , hopefully you'll soon get some reimbursement to make up for your losses . Well done for sticking by your guns and best of luck getting the result you deserve

Do you have a oil pressure gauge fitted , if so what's the hot idle in bar ? If the crank bearings are on the way out it will probably have lower oil pressure. My old v7sti had a crank rumble , I rebuilt it before it let go but oil pressure was at 1 bar hot idle and you could hear a feint rumbling between 1.5k to 2.5k when blipping the throttle. Other tell tale signs where the metal flakes in the sump . Did you do the h.g yourself, if not maybe send the builder a video and see what they say .

Yes feel free to post a full add with pics or a ebay link with a price . Glwts 👍

Gotta soft spot for old v dubs a mate of mine has a transverse swapped 500hp 1.8t in a mk2 golf syncro . And a self converted 3.3 turbo 4wd mk1 golf that's a absolute animal pic of the syncro . Engine teardown is coming along nicely 😎

I've always used the 93 to 96 manual method for all twin cam turbo from 92 to the 52 plate 207 engines I've rebuilt with stock head bolts (arp studs require a slightly different method) . Once tightened I always leave them overnight to settle and re check the final torque setting before putting the cams back in . It has no mention of this in the manual, so probably doesn't need it but it's just something I've always done when bolting ally heads with multi layer headgaskets to ally blocks .

Classic car insurance might be another option worth looking into , admittedly you dont earn /use no claims and most are limited mileage. But normally a lot cheaper than most normal insurance policies I use R.H classic insurance for my 94 sti

A full rebuild is generally just a engine refresh using standard parts . So teardown, clean ,machine where necessary ,replace parts that wear (bearings ,rings ,seals ect) and re assembly. Forging would include aftermarket forged pistons as a bear minimum. Then fully forged would include rods , headstuds and maybe deck pinning or converting to closed deck (pending on hp target) I know a few that use pole position or slow boy regularly but mainly for maintenance or modifications. Not that i know there's anything wrong with either of their engine building capabilities but just through who I've personally dealt with over the past decade . If I couldn't build my own engines I'd probably only use a few Subaru specialist to build me a block. Paul finch Alyn @asperformance Martyn @Enginetuner Mick at R.M performance (ex api) But like most advice as to who's good , personal preference will always give a few different answers I'd make a generic email listing usage info and h.p target and ping it to a few different companies . There's plenty to choose from and it's no small change job if you go forged

Hi n welcome, standard blobeyes with good history are getting few and far between 👍 feel free to search the forum or post a new thread in the relevant section , we'll help if we can 😊

I've got a 20t petrol a4, lovely car but so easy to drive it's a bit boring. I'm sure your newer s3 is a lot quicker than my lardy a4 20t se but I find the impreza much more fun and engaging to drive

After building the 2.1 ,fitting the alk ,buying and mapping the linkg4x..... Think I'd be sleeping in it if I spent anymore on my "budget build " atm but hey it's only January, so maybe once the dust settles 😊

So haven't had any updates as I've just been (essentially) driving ,grinning ,cleaning and repeat 😎 Did take a few pics after using it to price the plastering in a barn conversion . gotta say the 2.1 and the new geo set up lapped up the country lanes 😜 Literally, it was filthy when I got back 😂 well impressed with the xmas pressie clay cloth company snow foam n lance is a great bit of kit . Took another vid which shows the difference between normal ,first two blips of the throttle and anti lag enabled. you can hear the idle change once the "grin switch" is pressed 💨💥💥💥😊

I generally drive off boost for the last 5 mins of my journey but if I dont get chance and stop sooner than planned , my alarm has a switchable integral turbo timer function 😊

Up to v4 (early 98 ) the ecus aren't remappable without fitting a esl daughter board, so either that or a aftermarket ECU is needed to change ECU map parameters . That v5/v6 ECU is remappable using just software (ecutek) but unfortunately it wont fit into a v3/v4, due to different ecu harness plugs and engine loom differences . If you're after a cheaper alternative ,a stock ECU from a v3/v4 wrx would plug n play ,as long as the injectors are the same size /colour as your current v3/v4 uk . WRX's generally run the same engines and turbos as the uk counterparts of the same version but run a little more boost in the stock map (should see around 30 hp gain) If you did decide to remap and kept everything "stock" youd probably see around 260hp with a increase in torque and responsiveness. You could always get a second hand v3/v4 remappable ECU and get it mapped but keep the stock ECU. Then switch it back to stock or include it in the sale 😉

Unfortunately, headgaskets and ringland failure are fairly common on the 2.5 ltrs but if caught early or when just seeping occasionally under boost ,The bottom end could be fine. but as I said they're also prone to ringland failure and the usual way to make sure this doesn't happen is to change the pistons for aftermarket ones . Personally if it was mine I'd get a full rebuild done , last thing youd want is to pay out for the h.g to be replaced only for the ringland or bottom end failure to happen at some point . It makes sense to do it once and do it right ,to save having to do it all again in a few years /months

Hopefully someone else will have a better idea on full costing, I do most things myself and don't really know how much labour costs are . If you do go for the 2.1 option , you'll have to get it remapped due to the displacement increase needing more fuel . But are you getting further away from stock, if its primarily a investment car? I'm sure uk turbo prices will increase as rarity does and the more you spend the better the car will be but also the longer you'll have to wait to recoup what you've spent (higher value needed) Don't get me wrong my old uk turbo ran 270hp once remapped, with just a exhaust and panel filter and was a fun car to drive 😎 And I love my current 2.1 😊 If the box / drivetrain has nothing wrong with it but is being removed to clean up the underside? I'd just clean it up and replace the seals (about £40)

Only one I can think of but is probably too far west, is mick at RM performance in banbury. He'd definitely be worth the journey and possibly could arrange collection, So might be worth a call