Mr B

The Boxer diesel is considered Subarus biggest engine failure . You might get lucky as just past the worst production years with a 2013 but by design and emission regulations they all far from problem free . I get loads of these with engine failure and end result is non viable repair costs and scrap metal value car . They stopped making reliable cars 20-25 years ago lol .

The Hill Hold feature . Have done a reply in that thread .

You deactivate it by disconnecting a cable that goes from clutch pedal to a rocker arm on a inline valve mounted between brake circuit steel pipes . I can do a picture from RH SF forester showing the valve as should still be same position in engine bay . If the cable still there with threaded end you just need nut and spacers reconnect it then reset it by tightening or loosening the nuts (2 nuts as jam nut setup) so brakes release at right point of clutch travel bite point . I do have oem nuts and spacer if was needed .

Amayama have it and shipping to Portugal from Japan stock is quite fair cost ( no idea if you get screwed on import fees and get delays and hassle by Portugal customs on Japan goods but assume it highly likely lol ) Anything to screw money out your pocket ... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/807045040 eBay has options from Poland or Japan if works out better from shipping perspective or ease of purchase ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336138213028 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/376388560328 Always happy to help Forester SF owners any way we can . Have a good day ...

Part number 807045040 It 45mm diameter by 8mm deep rubber plug

Will look into the part in question as soon as got free 10 minutes ...

Well your VIN seems good in Subaru Fast ...

Supply us the vehicle model, engine code, vehicle year and we'll try find the part number and options on sourcing it, possible cheapest route could be Amayama online as they ship to europe easily and generally fairly cheap for oem part like that and fact it not big or heavy for shipping .

Only kit to use is the ICP timing belt kit with OEM manufacturer sourced parts. They also do GMB or Aisin water pumps that pretty good (use a oem metal gasket with it) Cost effective and decent parts ... ICP do sell on eBay or via website ... calling them is good option.

If you intend fixing it the quicker the better as longer left like this potentially more engine damage is caused . I have done head gasket only (resurfaced heads) on forester turbo's before and engines lived on fine but partially only due to being pretty confident on engine health prior to doing and fact mileage was fairly low . It be a big gamble at your high mileage doing just head gaskets should that be the issue . If you do decide do head gaskets you want be very selective on parts used and quality of work . The boxer engine is pretty easy to pull and do the heads for someone with experience with them . Option 2 is check the basics and if nothing found assume it head gasket as that the common failure and just live with it for six months to a year while work out a replacement .

It highly likely head gasket the issue, check some basics such as water pump and thermostat housing/hoses for leaks and also radiator and turbo cooling lines (visible coloured staining marks left from antifreeze) You can use chemical test kits detect combustion gases in cooling system (we use gas analyser over rad filler neck) It done some miles and to be honest I wouldn't want do just gaskets at that mileage, bearing shells, all new seals, new oil pump , new rings/pistons and valve overhual tends be best way forward but you could indeed do just head gasket and basic head overhaul if the short block seems decent enough and assemble with new water pump and quality japan timing kit (ICP do these at sensible money) Good parts and good effort won't be that cheap & at this mileage further issues could crop up from fatigued engine stressed from the poor cooling/overheating .

I wouldn't worry too much as it pretty easy and cheap to source used working M30 alarms and swap over faulty modules if that turns out be the case . The alarm siren can be dismantled by hidden recessed screws so battery can be replaced and board can be visually inspected . Main control unit pretty easy swap (just be sure comes with a working fob or 4 pin code so can program your fobs easily) . I have changed a few main control modules and sirens over the last 10 years . You could also remove/bypass or replace with new alarm, lot of owners on more basic old models such as forester and outback don't really want go new alarm route for cost and lowest cost bypass means remote locking lost .

M30 manual if needed > m30.pdf

Yes usually just beeps few times but these old electronics don't always respond how they should . Assume it likely bigger fault but best assuming nothing and inspecting/testing everything starting with basics .

double check bonnet switch not bent out of position or wiring an issue . What did you work on ? was battery disconnected for any period of time . Not unusual for issues with m30 alarms at this age, siren backup battery goes bad and can also leak and corrode board causing odd problems, relays in main unit can go bad too . If Siren issue you can leave siren unplugged and use fob/vehicle like normal . I done some MOT welding work on a Outback last year and had battery disconnect while welding and that drained a failing battery in the Siren . When reconnected battery we had the low dB warning bleeps and after few minuyes alarm would go off randomly. had strip siren and found bad leaking battery that shorting/damaging control board. A decent used siren and a new rechargable battery resolved that one but that was almost couple hours work find fault and chase parts. The fun of electronics lol, hybrids and electric cars be fun if manage reach age of this ...