Mr B

you get what you pay for within reason, what exactly wrong with the joint ? does it really need replacing ! If the joint is bad I would consider genuine used over pattern part . loads of these diesels in the salvage system so pretty easy source used parts . They super easy replace so no bother for half decent local mechanic .

do all the vehicle tyres natch brand/model and wear ? Could undead be centre diff issue if tyres all as should be, it will stress the transmission & driveshafts severely if is ...

CVT fault, that what the screech is (CVT belt screeching) CVT transmission are garbage in the long term ...

yes, I can't see easy way do a euro 5 to 6 unless perhaps just used the 6 short block .

The general method I used on EE20 engine swaps was keep the original engine sensors and common rail system including the injectors . We done euro 4 to euro 5 engines . Don't do many as far too expensive and too many repeat failure areas without 100% fix solutions .

More a case of buy only quality made bearings from proper manufacturers (OEM ODM manufacturers preferably) The after market parts is full of complete garbage so you got be a bit smart or you bolting on more problems than removing . contact ICP (Import Car Parts), they on eBay and have own website and are well established . SKF or Blueprint are fine but avoid the cheaper euro/german stuff as lot of it chinese made garbage ... Japan mainland made bearings are very high quality .

lots of lowest cost sourced electronics and very little sensible gumption engineering thought is all you get for your money these days, newer the car the more garbage you got . amazing how they meant be good for environment yet you got drive the long way or you be waiting for the RAC van and contributing far more to waste with short life batteries and components 🙂. Like I keep saying, only thing newer vehicles good at is emptying owners savings accounts ...

job jobbed, now have fun putting some miles on it ...

the fuel octane mapping of factory tune make no real difference really to MOT emission test (it all mainly ignition timing tables at higher rpm/boost and wider throttle positions).. good order cat and oxygen sensors and the JDM grey imports passed Euro 3 emissions pretty easily when all components present and in good order . One thing worth noting is MOT emission testing is harder for the tester to get a pass result as MOT body has very recently changed the setup so the emission result feeds directly to the system while your vehicle logged in for it's test and you only got a one chance run for the readings so ideally operator wants be sure vehicle nice & hot and no obvious likely issues prior to doing the test run as you can't do like before of nursing it through multi test runs until get a good enough reading manually input .

they are correct, it a chain . chain stretch is quite common on these with higher miles or poor oil servicing . pretty easy job replacing chain, guides etc & parts pretty sensible money .

If engineered correctly and control module software good it should not lock wheels if used in emergency. reality is it a complete waste of manufacture complexity and a massive pain in the butt and wallet for owners in the long run ...

they only sold the petrol as the diesel proved itself to be garbage ... certainly can be expensive issues and more so if intending on long ownership .

you could put stainless braided sleeve over the fuel pipe but issue is they may move to something else and more expensive resolve like wiring harnesses in difficult spots and finding the fault/damage can get difficult and costly . I do a fair few vehicles for farmers/smallholder and done fair few faults that turn out rodent damage and on the newer cars with loads of modules and networking it soon gets serious in running issues and cost . Worth looking at all options available to limit from hassle and expense .

sounds very much like roof bar seals gone. The good news is the roof linings are pretty easy remove with bit of finesse and the bars can be removed and resealed if needed and with headlining out should be easy test and find the source of water entry .. If head lining ruined probably not too hard find a donor lining given bit of time and get it back to immaculate .

Above info not that complete to real world importing a passenger vehicle that not over 10 years old. First thing you do is pay import fees/vat to customs (you pay vat on the shipping cost too) Once that done you need individual vehicle report approval inspection or a model report if DVLA already has one for your model (unlikely but worth checking) Emissions, safety, lighting has meet requirement . If your vehicle built in Japan factories it likely better equipped and better component quality than if in country specific built that likely change lot of things for cost purposes and local component sourcing . (Thailand for example always had buying preference on Japan produced vehicles compared to local/malaysia built as spec, quality difference night and day) You can check things like heating and demist equipment and things like factory glass not a tint level that likely a problem . It will be a fair cost and hassle so be sure educate yourself on process before making final decisions ... Knowing Thailand, I would expect export process could be a ballache of unclear requirements/costs, certainly not as easy as from Japan where it a common and clear process .

amazes me how modern consumer will just suck up poor quality products and poor service and just keep paying for it. About time they simply stopped buying the garbage . All my Subarus are over 20 years old, parts easy source but rarely ever need any besides general servicing items as engineering and component quality was far far better . Hassle free motoring and not filling up skips with parts/chemicals for recycle/landfill and the bank account reflects this lol .

The current sensing is for motor circuit protection, as voltage drops amps increase so things can get damaged or fires could start if running fully with lower voltage input . Battery health and power circuit to the steering motor good area inspect . Electric powered steering is another quality example of garbage idea and junky component engineering/quality . In such an important system the old hydraulic was far safer and far better for environment, it generally could last 2 to 3 decades, electric systems have issues in well under 10 years, are expensive diagnose and repair to good standard, a safety/reliability concern and more trash for landfill/recycle ... electric motor faults are fairly common possible cause, code reading diagnostics is not going pinpoint/verify the fault, at best it give some direction for doing tests/inspections on components/circuits but you got test components and collect data to fully diagnose . There is a very good reason all vehicle all my family members own are old models lol, I ain't got time repair there junk and they don't want waste good money and hassle on the newer vehicle garbage 🙂

Amen to this ... Classic example of this couple months back, guy had intermittent crank no start, asked our opinion, my hunch was possibly crank sensor bring it in for diagnosis . He didn't do that, went for a £20 aftermarket sensor DIY and problem seemed cured, some time passes then he stranded with a crank no start & gets a tow to our shop . The aftermarket sensor signal output was awful week lol . towing cost him fair chunk and he got what he paid for with the £20 sensor lol (a functionality/reliability gamble lol) . If he had bought OEM new for extra £50-60 he would of resolved original fault on a wise guess cheaply and smarty but no had go stupid cheap and then you or the next sucker got pay the real price at some point lol . Cheap sensors never work out cheap in long run lol . Very rare we ever use them, simply too unreliable be main part source and make your business look like a circus, few exceptions on old beater subarus when budget tight and vehicle life looking close to end but if you want no ballache top quality parts is a must and even bigger known aftermarket brands these days kick out some sloppy parts so you really need do homework on what brands are likely good quality/value . One of biggest issues as an independent is garbage parts even from trade motor factors, we don't use likes of ECP for anything, couple good independent factors and specialists and started stocking lot of parts ourselves of quality we happy fit and back with warranty . Import Car Parts is a good source of common parts OEM or fairly high quality aftermarket, educate yourself on parts prior to purchase to make wiser choices or you just pi55ing money down the drain and setting yourself up for a future ballache ...

aftermarket cheap brands on critical electrical components are always best avoided . If want no hassle new OEM always best way go and it buy once and job jobbed scenario . Amount of cars we get see with ballache to track down faults that turn out be garbage parts that been fitted before in a part change tryagnosis effort is unreal . You then got throw all the garbage quality in bin and hope they kept the original high quality parts as gets proper spendy if haven't lol . If doing labour yourself you may get lucky with a used genuine IACV , most issues with these is down to dirt but not that uncommon to be worn/faulty functioning . If paying labour many time better off new oem parts and job faultless first time . DIY then used can really pay off but do be prepared accept risk that some used parts going be bad but OEM used is way better than cheap aftermarket garbage, just be sure used parts you buy are OEM parts .

They added to get crash safety rating for europe market. can remove it but sharp mot inspector may comment and you could have insurance issues in a more serious accident claim . You can pick up the front frames in solid shape for peanuts off of eBay or marketplace so proper repair not expensive. some of the fixing bolts can be a right struggle though ... If the front frame rough I would do good in depth evaluation of rear frame and body structure and all suspension arms to get good idea on vehicle state then choose what want do based on evaluated condition .

None of parts in that pic look particularly new . tensioner and toothed idler don't look new and back of the belt have a lot of marks for 1200 miles ! Is the crank gear belt guide removed for investigation/photo or missing !? If none of that oem mainland japan made I would throw it in bin and buy the oem kit from ICP. About only kit we use these days as even bigger name aftermarket kits have some dubious quality chinese parts in them these days . Hard to tell what exactly wrong from just that 1 picture but the whole job needs evaluating and top quality parts used . It very easy job and the oem complete kits from ICP are not expensive so doing job to good standard is achievable for sensible cost/effort . I would assume it mainly tensioner issue and hydraulic seals failed but it not an area we skimp on or want run on assumptions alone so whole lot needs checking and ideally I would likely want replace whole timing belt parts including the belt and all idlers .

Well if anything hitting against shell you likely have witness mark from it . If it is coming from the strut it could be strut spring or top mount . don't overlook other suspension areas such as drop link or bushes. wheel bearings don't make knocking noises as a rule ... Best way forward is good visual inspection and if nothing obvious pull the strut for examination . What could be happening is the strut is bottoming out with the lowered spring now it few years older and settled lower .

car sale dealers put minimal coin into what they sell & anyone with half a brain would not put much into an almost 200K car expecting easy sale/profit . They didn't do the rear struts and do they think the sagging rear is not a problem ! Keep looking is good stuff around but got be patient and got be prepared travel a little unless super lucky .

First thing can see from images is rear self levelling suspension sagging so it will soon need replacement struts/springs on rear . Lot of mileage and it not exactly going cheap and mot soon be due ... over heating pretty common on 2.5 so need extra run time and checks in that area . 06 in the high road tax bracket and again that lowers retail price . Buying models like this from dealers in the 2.5 to 4K range is good way find mainly garbage, it mainly trade ins and auction scruff with minimal chance of stumbling on a good buy .

Corrosion is number one thing look out for on these, surface rust is going be the norm and that can be surface treated, heavy corrosion can get quite expensive and if it not localised rust you be chasing you tail for no long term benefit . Also don't think newer means better, late 90's to 2002 era about some of best made . Do good checks using MOT history and good visual inspection and that means a real good long look and poke around underneath, rust doesn't always show itself but steel can be rotted and collapse under physical inspection . Is fairly easy find these pretty clean and not many keen on larger engines so prices can be low/easy haggle . I would be more sceptical of dealer sales than private and that comes from 30 years trade experience lol, 99% of the good stuff comes private sales, biggest ballache and pork pies always dealers .