Mr B

either keypad then arm once outside the car or before removing key from ignition (must be on ACC or beyound), press fob once > remove key from ignition > arm alarm from outside vehicle either way just over-rides the ultrasonics just for the 1 arming cycle .

anticlockwise to undo. if reel tight be sure plug hole cleaned out so square socket fits deeply so less chance of turning itself out the plug hole . problem using 1/2 inch ratchet or extensions is tip is tapered & domed so don't get full depth grip plus it slightly too small, works ok until get tight ones, then it rounds the plugs out & I get the job of removing them by welding a bolt into the fooked plug hole . If don't budge try some gentle heat. I always refit these plugs with 3 turns of PTFE tape as doesn't weep, no need do murder tight plus it acts as barrier between the 2 differing metals stopping corrosive seizing issues ...

Will cross with impreza . If only issue is the rusted flange you can get away with a short length joiner to slide over pipe once rusted flanges cut off. Joiners are about £8 . shields need slight modding fit with joiner but cheap solution if rest of cat good /solid .

i would stick to manual, no point going auto unless desire it . have a look on eBay, search forester xt or xten > http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR8.TRC1.A0.H0.Xforester+xt.TRS0&_nkw=forester+xt&_sacat=0 http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=forester+xt&rmvSB=true&afsrc=1&clk_rvr_id=1057738215121&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xforester+xten.TRS0&_nkw=forester+xten&_sacat=0

Dealer one is indeed over priced, front bumper gap spacing looks off too. if local worth a look just gain knowledge & potential condition/price of car. They probably drop £900 quite easily (my local Subaru dealer does, prices drop 1k to 1.5k once advertised for couple months & before if haggle hard & car not got much interest) 2004/2005 is good for cheaper tax and if not concern to you it might be one day when resell . plenty of good ones about & many under 80k. Nice 1 or 2 owner FSH 2005 can be had 4k or less pending on fine details & condition, always worth spending extra £500+ for best example as pays you back in reliability & no nasty garage bills plus a joy to own a super clean car .

Not exactly, it close . . . 26mm is not an inch . you will find quality 13mm drain wrench sockets a tighter fit & less likely twist out on tight plugs .

13mm square, if tight proper decent 13mm plug sockets work way better ...

measure the bar with a vernier calliper .

Keep looking, do remember 2.5 headgaskets are an issue, no oil changes & poor oil play big part in the gasket breakdown ... You'll buy one then few weeks later see way better options appear . on cars like this it worth spending the extra to get a proper tidy one as they will be faultless/reliable & pay you back in no garage expenses & pleasure of a mint purchase . Bad ones can rack up expensive bills from £300 to £2,000 quite easily and more so if not handy with wrench yourself ...

I would at least take a code reader to check fault codes, if easy fix surprised it not done ! As for what to go for, I would take first one you find that is a proper impeccable clean low mileage example with impeccable paperwork whether it 2.0 or 2.5 Normally quite easy find 2.0xt clean & low miles, manual is way better, 2.0xt manual probably holds better resale potential too . extra grunt of 2.5 is good if think you need it . Main thing is be fussy & really look at the car in detail & don't buy intil you 100% happy .

they not same but fitment same (even forester struts can be fitted), you want stick with estate/wagon as rear spring rates are different . I personally would go new KYB & if want lower it get some 25-30mm lowering springs with slightly increased rates.

You can get a pair of KYB for about 150 or less & pair Optimal about 140 or less . eBay will have them as pairs. I wouldn't bother with cheap coilovers, they are a downgrade on a road car. if serious on lowering get a quality lower spring set go with it You could go with some used turbo stuff but I wouldn't bother unless super cheap .

@FozzySTurbo I would look at getting your cambelt done within next year/18months but worth checking visual condition by removing covers, uk service is bit over keen, US & Oz do closer to 100k on the belt and it exactly same parts, main reason difference is need more competitive servicing figures for those regions . As for clutch if bite point very high it maybe clutch dragging slightly, also could be worn syncros (common on turbos as higher rpm changes), If clutch seems poor might want get someone test drive it & give you an opinion. Worth changing gearbox fluid (75/90 Castrol Syntrax) as that can help sometimes with syncros .

^ that the right sort of price for full kit inc DMF fitted .

yours has DMF (dual mass flywheel) . It is recommended to change DMF with new clutch but if you do really come down to you & the fitter really, they can be resurfaced even though many say can't, they probably won't last another clutch life though . Blueprint or Sachs ok, Sachs kit with DMF is £500 region. Get your Garage check it, they may even do a good deal on clutch if does needs doing . Smoke issue needs be priority though, I would suspect injectors possibly . early boxer diesel can be a PITA and as potentially highly expensive best pursued while garage showing interest .

belt should be reviewed on any previous history of when changed . cost of full quality belt kit & fitting (Dayco with oem idlers/tensioner) and fitting will be around £340 to £380 Area look at on old Fozzy is rear subframe corrosion, rear chassis corrosion, inner rear arch corrosion, rear brake line corrosion, saggy rear suspension, rear diff & gearbox noise, clutch operation & bite point . The old SF forester are superb build but be fussy on what buy & check everything twice especially rear end corrosion as that can cost a lot repair right .

Clutch kit is about £160 for a Blueprint. If want do dual mass flywheel it will add another £400 to cost . Fitting could cost around £260 for proper job and not overly hard car to do clutch on. Main thing is buy top grade parts & choose a known competent fussy mechanic so work done to high standard .

What you need do is buy another key with programmed transponder chip then remove transponder chip from new key & cut new key down to shank. You then open up the replacement remote housing & dig out the transponder chip & get new programmed chip fit in housing. Once done cut the remotes key off but leaving about 15mm tail as use this to step lap new key to remote via small machine screws or 2 rivets . Done this a few times to keep customers happy as way way way cheaper than dealer getting involved & better than remote separate to key . done neatly & key joint finished on mill or ground very precise it looks like it made like it originally.

Use gas analyser to sniff for exhaust gasses at the rad cap port. if passes that, inspect coolant pressure holding/psi-value, inspect thermostat for function, finally fully drain flush & refill coolant & see how temp runs in normal use ...

Does it do it when stationary and apply varying revs does it do it more at certain rev & engine load does it only do it or do it more going over bumps or on rougher roads answer those sort of question & you should be able pinpoint area of likely issue better .

Think Boris need a tie with that printed on it :-D

If you on about JIS to SAE cone post shims then a good place look if hunting locally is agricultural outlets as lot of domestic type machinery (grass tractors etc) use these on small batteries they use so often have a set or 2 lying around or packed on display .

Those prices are about best you will get for what is decent branded quality parts, probably about 40% cheaper than average factor prices . You may find the KYB struts will combine postage saving a bit.Other options are optimal struts but I would take KYB every time at those prices . One thing to note is you will be about 10 to 15mm higher than standard turbo ride height because you using standard non SLS rear springs & matching front, you CAN NOT use the s-turbo rear springs as they only pair to SLS oem struts, if fussy on ride height use custom springcoil.co.uk springs (£200 roughly full car set) . What ever do will still handle way better than old dead struts & fatigued springs, springcoil is nice bonus if road/motorway car & fast driver & they can set spring rates & ride height to benefit your usage inc rear carry load/towing etc . They quite easy fit so if you handy with a spanner you can save few £ , brake line through rear strut bracket can be troublesome but not overly pricey make up new short hard-lines to wheel cylinder if needed, I would do set within 2.5 hours inc rear brake line if issue as rough guide. Working at home will be longer but it not unpleasant if plan it well & spray all fitting with release oil day or 2 in advance ...

KYB shocks front> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-FRONT-SHOCK-ABSORBERS-SUBARU-FORESTER-97-02-Protection-KIT-KYB-334189-190-/181943982910 rear> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBERS-SUBARU-FORESTER-97-02-Protection-KIT-KYB-334191-334192-/181943999053 Suplex springs front> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-Front-Suspension-Coil-Spring-SUP032033-/141542632915 rear> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Spring-SUP032034-/141542632909 Thats about £300 in parts but shocks are nice on uk roads, Suplex springs are better pricing than KYB as on over stock saleKYB have 2 year waranty on shocks. Pedders is another option & they do do slightly lowered sets if that your thing. I like KYBs & if being fussy when pairing with S turbo or XT models I like match the with custom springs from springcoil.co.uk, you can lower about 25mm on these kyb struts . thread with bit of strut info here>

Worth buying a cheap code reader or cheap cable, obd adaptor to use with pc or android software so can read your own codes .