Mr B

Re-linked to the front lower arm rear bushes just as confirmation we both singing from same hymn sheet N/S-left front lower arm REAR bush (MOT failure one) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200903868974 O/S-right front lower arm REAR bush (buy if want do pair, recommended) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200824608138 You can email or call that seller to confirm parts, I also suggest adding your registration number & basic model details to payment note if paying via PayPal as covers your **** a bit more & puts the ball fully in sellers court if wrong parts happened to be sent out. To be honest I could probably do rear lower arm bushes & both drop links in hours labour if all unbolted without a hitch, if original stuff on car & not messed up from poor previous spannering the Subarus come apart easy as decent quality fittings & engineering. couple of minor snags & 1.5hrs or 2hrs tops is possible but highly unlikely but a lot of garages like rounding up dramatically :-S

^ lol :-D to be honest I would still check pump for priming on ignition on as first step if I was to look at car as had scenario before where people say no spark but when get to test it, it sparks :-) Assume nothing test everything & start at basics is always way go ...

^ Yeh could of been a 6 speed conversion but seemed unlikely back in 2000 when he doing clutch job, who knows :-S Do you know weight of 6 speed box ? curious how much extra weight in that ... Front drive shaft are bit of mixture on 2nd gen vehicles with female shaft with stubs & male shafts too, vary on model version & even model version year.

drop links are super simple, just soak nut in advance with penetrating oil once a day for couple days till parts turn up.Only tip is if jack car up do both sides or the drop link will be under load from rollbar ... Lower arm rear bushes I linked to don't need a press as come with the alloy bracket so bolt on as is. They are easy but car needs be up on stands & bolts can be bit tight, you need mark a current mounting position & also make a central alignment mark from the threaded shaft of the lower arm that goes through the bush to a chalk mark on floor pan, This just helps realignment after assembly stay close to current setup. Basically you need undo big nut on lower arm going though bush then loosen 2 bolts & pull/pry lower arm down then fully undo/remove 2 bolts & wiggle/tap the bush off the lower arm. couple of rubber rings either side of bush & metal cap on out so observe part orientation for refitting. Bit of penetrating oil on things will make life easier. Fit new bush in reverse making sure it right side part & right way round. I charge 1hr labour for both rear bushes, it not hard but i'm on a ramp or over pit, working on floor with stands not so relaxing & also if not done it before you may struggle ! Ideally alignment wants doing after road test/bushes settling or even left until after MOT retest . For sure youtube will have rear bushes, they same on the inpreza so should find a good how to video or guide. Just be aware rear bush super easy do on car so whole lower arm does not need come off., one nut & 2 bolts and job jobbed ... service manual EU.pdf for 2004 Forester below as a bonus for you ... http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2004/

Yeh your linked bush works but needs fitting in original alloy bracket also that a caster adjusting bush & not what you want really Lower arm rear bushes I linked to come complete with alloy bracket & are decent quality & quick to fit. I use those for general standard replacement & do this for a living :-S Cheaper drop links can be had if you on a budget droplinks once again a simple job & half hours garage labour.

^ m reg was 94 unless private plate & no 6 speeds till 2nd gen.

That all cheap as chips >> drop links (top quality, mayle) less than £30 pair, Left & right are same part> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-Front-Right-Stabiliser-anti-roll-bar-DROP-LINK-ROD-No-34-16-060-0003-HD-/361074352328?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASG&hash=item5411b560c8 You don't say if lower arm is the rear bush or front bush I assume rear as that more expensive but not silly money Lower arm (left n/s) rear bush is less than £30 > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200903868974 Lower arm (right o/s) rear bush less than £30 > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200824608138 ** Lower arm rear bushes best done in pairs, trust me on that as I got 20years subaru experience. If lower arm front bush then it > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-FORESTOR-2-0-TURBO-2-5XT-1999-08-FRONT-LOWER-WISHBONE-ARM-FRONT-BUSH-/300881735917?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASG&hash=item460df2f0ed or (easy fit) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-SG-Impreza-GC-GD-Legacy-BC-BD-BE-Front-wishbone-front-bush-/271423547325?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f321aa7bd or (easy fit) http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Front+Wishbone+Front+Bush/1367.html EDIT: Okay you say front lower arm rears & that good as they super easy fit:-) Pair will cost less than £60

Probably STI as those boxes tend be bit heavier. might of just seemed that much bigger & heavier as u was stoned ! lol

^ in 1st post he stating he got no spark ...

earlier models had the split pin & splined stub shaft from gearbox turbo or non turbo. Pin is fork pivot & pulled out so fork can be cleared from pull bearing rather than the awful way of doing it on likes of evos.

What JDM model was that Rick...

across the range. pull type covers potentially have more pressure capability & retain desirable clutch pedal load effort.

Yeh your clutch is pull type on the turbo hence pulling shaft out for release fork . His fozzy is normal push type. Think gearbox is about 57kg.

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts.asp?cat=96⊂=494&sec=1540&var=60&dc=y Blueprint do them too so any decent autofactors should be able help. ICP stuff is !Removed! good though & many time these parts are same source as original subaru parts .

Read page 1 & 2 of thread below & have a go at reading fault codes. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/ If no codes try testing the ignition module against service manual data.

Yep well that ignition pack could be at fault along with some other things such as crank/cam timings sensors as if not picking up timing signal it will not fire ignition. Simple things like fuses relays need checking too ... What exact year version Fozzy you got ! picking up a bluetooth OBD dongle & using free software for your android phone or PC software (ask me for link) will give you access to codes, pre OBD2 compliant Fozzy can be checked by joining plugs under dash & reading CEL flash codes. You can also buy a ISO9141 compliant OBD2 VAG to USB cable for less than £4 on eBay & use that with the free FreeSSM software & you got almost dealer quality diagnostics. really is guess work at moment so fault codes need look at then checking possible components & harnesses via multimeter if nothing basic seen ...

either you got fixings left at bottom or indeed it corrosion on bottom studs. dowls can hold a bit (one either side at about 3 & 9 oclock) try heating casing around lower studs if penetrating oil no help. Had a few tight but alway budged with bit of prying near studs & box rocking. Ideally want support front engine as will droop down at front as box weight taken off engine, also lifting engine at front a little eases removal & fitting as gives more direct line.

Worth double checking all round for missed bolt. They do hold a bit on the dowls & bottom long studs sometimes . Download the service manual EU.pdf from link below & review gearbox removal, although not overly helpful it may give you some insight confidence in the job. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2003/

what bearing ? Kits come with 2 release bearings to cover options or was spigot the issue !

Exedy stage 1 clutch kit. Wouldn't bother with lightened flywheel on road car but nice refinishing/skimming on current one is a must for a proper job. Like Ricky says the box on the subaru as damn easy, far easier than many front wheel drive cars & you have quite good room around it for working. Other plus is nut & bolt quality is far better than french & german tat & some thought on dismantling is visible in sizing & design of things so compared to a hdi pug it an absolute pleasure of a job :-)

i would only bother on a spare machine, I never use preview builds on a good running machine.

^ You shouldn't of have :D Could waste a whole Sunday if I download that :P Good chance this 10 will be the revelation 7 was after Vista. Think a lot of the criticism has been taken on board & looks good on paper

Always surprised me more alarm makers didn't play on making key & fob all in one as selling feature as to be honest it is !Removed! better & would of been easy either via custom blanks or chopping standard key into a adaptable fob holder ! The Sigma is only one that has key & fob in one that i'm aware of, it based on the remote key 2 button fob like you have & you open it up & replace the board for a sigma one & comes with new cover for the key. Possible rip one out of a scrapped Subaru, I had one a few years ago as a friendly breaker had a forester breaker in & I noticed 2keys with inbuilt remotes in the car so decided spend few hours pulling the system out as price was cheap & spares handy. As you going need paperwork for insurance you ideally going need go new. Going with something that seems easy use for your needs & reasonable on support in your area & online info is good. Clifford is a bit over rated as is over priced.

Is a bit of a pain on the 4wd's when one tyre needs doing. Exactly what best or workable option comes down to what other axle tyre condition like. If it almost new then 1 new matching tyre could be used, if excessively worn so rolling diameter going differ too much then 2 new on same axle is best. If excessive rolling diameter between both axles is likely as all tyres well worn then a complete set is good idea. On 4wd it very good idea keep matching brand & wear on complete car or axle at minimum. Davids tip on rotate is good, don't have go silly on this but once or twice in tyre set life is normally all that needed in getting most from the tyres. **** tyres & mismatched tyres makes the 4wd kind of useless & possibly troublesome .. Upside is the Subarus if setup ok & no suspension issues are good on tyre wear so a set should wear quite well without much rotating hassle.

Well if that resolves piston slap post me the empty can & I will eat it. For sure additives can help in some engine matters but chances on proper piston slap is a no really .