Mr B

If you really like autos go for auto, generally autos even easier find as cleaner & less abused. If you want bit of performance then the turbo is a must & you may find 2.5 to non turbo 2.0 a bit lacking . Trick is using perhaps local dealer examples as bit of learning ground on confirming it what you want & base idea what they should be like then widen search a bit. If not brash & take little bit of time you can get real clean fsh 2.0xt, the non turbo models tend be harder as get more abused one way or the other as such a versatile wagon.

^ best way, need decent proper looking job or you could get hassle from insurers in an accident some how related to it or mentioned on accident vehicle report .

Yes they reliable. Buy a good example & they super reliable. Get a manual, 2003 to 2005 SG models are good, newer models not so good. Generally the 2.0XT is easier find in clean order & you far smarter buying say a 2004 model with low mileage & FSH & impeccable order over newer models at close cost. Even a late SF model low mileage example could be considered as the SF foresters are absolute solid with all fit & finish being very durable. Regular oil change with a quality full synthetic is a must .

Headgaskets tend play up between 80K & up but not all do. Proper effort on headgasket will be around £1,000+ if use top quality parts & do cambelt fully during rebuild. With turbos you want be looking for smoke, engine rattle, clutch engagement, transmission clunks & smooth changes on all gears. Check for accident damage too. wouldn't worry on things like elec windows & sunrroof as they not overly common, drivers window sometimes issue or the switch, obviously test all . MOT items are nothing, drop links on the SG is metal but they tend wear out in 80 to 100k plus I expect that BC suspension helping wear the drop links. I don't think the 2.5XT is particularly worth the extra running costs plus they harder sell on. I prefer the 2.0XT (perhaps the PPP version if spot one). It easy buy good 2.0 & 2.5 turbo forester if don't rush at first you see, they normally far less abused as work horse or family bus so almost mint low mileage with FSH can be found reasonably easy & prices good.

HKS is one of best due to way valve is controlled, still see problems with them though regardless of adjustment. If you log or live view maf readings/fueling you will see issues even if lucky & not feel them . for very sensitive maf cars I don't use them as recirc far better. Fit after market ecu run map sensor then 100% no issue with vta. I got no issue with noise, but as a mechanical engineer do like facts & proper function over anything else.

Tesco momentum 99 is good :-) Check ecu fault codes out of interest, being a W(99) & if this a UK car you have a chance of possibly using OBD cable as yours could have the OBD2 style plug which actually wired for ssm2 & that works with ISO9141 KKL OBD cable & freeSSM software Leads would be good to inspect or replace & not overly expensive. When you say happens under load, would it be always under reasonable amount of boost ! resistance is higher due to pressure & spark blow out can occur under boost if ignition parts not up to scratch. Lots of other possibilities, knock sensors quite common but more diagnosis needed really ...

^ Have a look at those manuals & if yours better or EU model specific add a link ... Back on topic of CEL light, I think (need good look at wiring diagram & car) the ECU controls the light via grounding the CEL light, if you look at a ECU pin diagram & can see the CEL input you could test its voltage & also try external grounding the input & if CEL illuminates by external grounding then likely ecu issue !

PDF & interactive online one here > http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2006/

No black pair as you OBD2. Just plug in your OBD2 dongle & try connect to your iphone, hopefully it will read ok & have no error codes. That would leave you assuming more than likely light at fault, I have had earlier ones with dead CEL light but never come across a dead CEL light on likes of 2003 onwards :-/ If you have problems with iphone software I will upload/link an OBD2 PC software which has USB/BT & WiFi connection options ... actually you can find links to software, cable, dongles in post below > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/10869-help-forester-diagnostics/?p=63645

Only thing I would suggest is: 1. contact them & get diameter of pipe as yours is XT the standard exhaust diameter is slightly larger & I expect this is standard NA size 2. Put in offer price of £32 at most really, you can get decent complete cat back (SG 2.0X) inc all bolts/springs/nuts/gaskets & mount rubbers for £50 (make offer) +£12 P&P http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-2-0-SG-92-KW-125-HP-2002-2008-Silencer-Exhaust-System-858-/400637858938?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d47e0947a 3.Powerflow would do nice to spec back box for probably £125 I would of thought. I bought close to £800 of systems from premium-car as got even better prices that way plus having stock makes it easier pulling the work as can do job instantly if workshop free plus job price is highly competitive . Done Justy system for £33 :o Quality of premium-car systems is better than my local supplier SDL's budget systems & cheaper. I expect in average conditions/circumstances they would last 5 to 8+yrs ...

That pic is trailing arm front bush - 271152 they £15.78 each You get any others ?

you want 271149 then ? They £8.43 each http://www.strongflex.eu/en/subaru-forester-sf-97-02/355-rear-tie-bar-bush.html Want check long bolt will come out as sometimes they seized solid & you need both lateral link bushes & new bolt as need cut the bolt both ends. Have had one that had hub in tub of duck oil for 2 days then left in press with 15tonne pressure on saturday afternoon & had moved bolt shaft by monday morning, most not that bad though ...

Actually better than that, prices are euro by default, if select GBP-£ currency they are £10.22 each, 3to5day airmail shipping £4.11 Used them for rear 'front' trailing arm & front 'front' wishbone bushes, prices are good & bushes equal to others I have seen with same 2 part with metal centre pin design. Have PayPal on the ste too so easy to purchase ...

Probably as fitted from factory .

^ Lateral link or trailing arm in this case, think it down to Polish translation :-S Tie bar is actually a bar that ties left & right lateral links or wishbones together via subframe bush bolt or close to the bushing mount.

StrongFlex 271151 > http://www.strongflex.eu/en/subaru-forester-sf-97-02/359-rear-tie-bar-to-hub-rear-bush.html 271152 > http://www.strongflex.eu/en/subaru-forester-sf-97-02/361-rear-tie-bar-to-hub-front-bush.html

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=Subaru+Forester+SF+97-02+Trailing+arm-lower+rear&_ssn=onlineperformance&hash=item58b64c4919&item=381015574809&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XSubaru+Forester+SF+97-02+Trailing+arm-lower.TRS0&_nkw=Subaru+Forester+SF+97-02+Trailing+arm-lower&_sacat=0 SuperPro do the bushes to but prices generally high Another company I have recently used was StrongFlex http://www.strongflex.eu/en/245-subaru-forester-sf-97-02 they do different hardness (shore grade) bushings, they in Poland & do full range for SF forester prices are sensible. You can find them on eBay but they not listing trailing arm bushes but might be worth contacting seller & see if can ... > http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/strong-flex.eu?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

^ Is a pain, as you ssm1 it won't work, freeSSM works on ssm2 obd1&2, evoscan will read live sensor data/log on ssm1 but if you look at the drop down box for selecting DCT method it also only supports DCT from ssm2 :-/

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=09993311988300458276

The freeSSM software is cable only, your dongle & iphone app should be enough to get basic idea of no faults (hopefully) & fact ecu diagnostics are functioning.

Sounds very much like a drop link, your forester as metal ball joint type such as linked below. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-Front-Left-Stabiliser-anti-roll-bar-DROP-LINK-ROD-No-34-16-060-0003-HD-/351180974431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item51c404695f What is front tyre wear like ! also check pressures as if low the forester handles awful. If can't spot the cause of noise easily then it needs good looking at, should be easy find to be honest as don't sound anything too out the ordinary but best checked/concluded as safety issue. Would imagine what you feeling in roundabout is traction control response if not related to source of noise. Not a big fan of foresters from 2005 onwards, changed to awful style front wishbone & the traction control & early diesel was rubbish, the SF & SG to 2004 are absolute superb though :-/

^ which kit depends if want water pump, one with - one without As for oil pumps I think you best just swapping the the prv plunger for a custom fully smooth plunger over rcm/ggr pump housings.

Basically the gauge should not fluctuate much over the normal hot running point, jap cars tend be very efficient on temp control & don't spike so high before fans kick in etc so overall the coolant stays in a tighter controlled range. You could get a data reader display for the OBD output to read coolant & other values or adding some extra guages is not a bad idea.

Turbos are water cooled so for general road use turbo timers are waste of time, effort & money totally. Common sense is good though & thrashing a cold turbo engine is not good, also after hard drive short distance at light pace helps take heat out quickly compared to stationary with engine running. Main trick is quality ester synthetic oil & frequent change with quality filter, turbo & the motor love quality clean oil.

ICP kits with dayco belt are superb, all bearings & tensioner are same as original. Dayco is part of company that does subaru OEM belts. Water pumps from ICP are also top quality Jap.(Aisin normally) Second option is ADL Blueprint kits/pump.