Mr B

I suppose it some sort of progress but as you bought it & complained about the fault within a week they should of done it %100 under mix of subaru warranty & the sale warranty. Any dealer with half a brain would of known that clutch not right so putting it for sale like that is well out of order, I know subaru not keen on admitting the early diesels had clutch flywheel issues but reality is they did & they know all about it but like to fluff it all over :-S Hope all is well though & you get a good run of reliability from the car.

I use these aero vu blades & have done for almost 3yrs without issue. Better than blades from local motorfactors & parts store that 3x the price. front set SF SG http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/21-19-Front-Aero-Flat-Windscreen-Wiper-Blades-Retro-Fit-Upgrade-V5-/290910050705?fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item43bb971991:g:iY4AAOxybLpRgo-f rear blade (15" can work on both SF & SG) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-Rear-Aero-Flat-Wiper-Blade-Subaru-Forester-1997-To-/270709938378?hash=item3f0791d8ca:m:mXKGlI_0cXp-pCkyrSMGf4Q Front & rear set SF http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-SUV-Aero-VU-Front-Rear-Flat-Window-Windscreen-Wiper-Blades-/301868954787?fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item4648cab4a3:g:CS0AAOSwQYZWuiT3 Front & rear set SG http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SG-SUV-Aero-VU-Front-Flat-Specific-Fit-Rear-Wiper-Blades-/291681598464?fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item43e993fc00:g:f90AAOSwe7BWuwzE SF to SG >2008 are all same blade fitting & size front driver 21" passenger 19" rear 15" for SF 14" for SG (if specific fit) Only had one complaint over winter (fit loads of them) & that was because clip for hook had broke, do believe probably due to wiper frozen to screen but easy fixed . I use the aero's on front & the totally flat back blade 15" for rears. The rear wipes far better being a spring steel blade , looks better plus does not collect 5hit & snow like standard blades Even my MOT garage started stocking these after my customer cars going in with them over the 5hit they been using from motorfactors.

Factory wheel mod is no different to what guys are doing really as they do not use a modded boot deck, main difference is neater finish unless you really go to town on your home conversion To be honest it very easy strip boot so tyre low as possible then build up floor to suiite & use original floor covering. Also very easy fit a ring bolted to floor to secure wheel if can not find any suitable fixings for a ratchet strap. Half price at £200 from dealer not too bad but £400 is a joke for something that should be standard, could of easily dipped the boot to fit a purpose made but full size steel spare. Not too bad in the UK but if I was in France or Oz or Canada with just a can of gunk it could be a disaster :-/

Simplest way is 1" spacers on top hats & either add to that with 1" springs (king springs or custom from springcoil,co.uk) or add slightly bigger tyres such as 215 over 205 or 75 profile over 70 Spacer & tyres gets about 1.25 to 1.75 inch lift Spacer & spring gets 2.0 inch lift Spacer spring & tyres gets you 2.25 to 2.75 inch lift ** Do note you can not use lift springs with standard SLS struts (Change to KYB excel G)** 2 inches is about as much as need really, any more needs the rear trailing arm repositioned with custom bracket. done the odd lift with custom spacers & brackets for farmers & the likes. Tyres are a good lift as gain on clearance of wishbone too plus most people wanting a lift want more biased off road tyre Your sagging issue sounds like SLS rear struts may be faulty !

For exhaust you best going with custom at around £400 at most for cat back. Any issues with y section you best getting good used. Wishbones are same as other SG models, doubt you need wishbone unless it bent or corroded, what you probably need is wishbone rear bush & that £26 on ebay, wishbone balljoint & that £9.99 on eBay. Front wishbone bush rarely needs doing but if does you can use a polybush & that £17.10 on eBay if Wishbone is bent corroded once again pick up a good used one, they same as on any SG Wishbone rear bush = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200824608138 Balljoint = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-96-14-Front-Lower-High-Quality-Ball-Joint-STB-STi-XT-X-SF-SG-/351320021782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASG&hash=item51cc4e1b16 Polybush = http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-SG-Impreza-GC-GD-Legacy-BC-BD-BE-Front-wishbone-front-bush-/271423547325?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f321aa7bd ICP parts http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts?cat=96⊂=494 will be useful to you along with any local motorfactor that specialise in jap & deals with BluePrint & SolidAce parts If stuck post what need with good descriptive detail & we will link you to it, almost everything can be crossed to standard forester SG or impreza turbo .

Only different in terms of additional sensors, P0031 is very much generic OBD stadard for all front oxygen sensors.

As above, wires to sensor need checking including tracing them back into the car under dash as have come across a loose connector issue here at least twice before on imrezas of same year range ... also don't assume new sensor not faulty as some can be so needs testing .

So have you checked the voltage feed to pump & earth with a multimeter, tried a tempory earth to chassis. Your pressure regulator is purely mechanical/vacum I think. You got any alarm/imobilizer system with fuel cut !

If the car runs ok it can't be much. If you don't get much conclusion from codes you need use OBD iso9141 cable (less than £4 on eBay) & freeSubaruSelectMonitor sofware to see alll the sensor values & look at Lambda sensors more closely. OBD cable (bought & tested one of these at beginning of new year) > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-USB-Cable-car-Scanner-Diagnostic-Tool-for-OBD2-Audi-VW-SEAT-/400786919123?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d50c30ed3 Thread with sofware links > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/10869-help-forester-diagnostics/#entry63645

Boot space & ride height = Outback Best buys tend be Outbacks & XT Foresters as easy find almost perfect examples at very sensible prices.

Its hydraulic MPT clutch for centre drive split. Pluging the fuse for FWD could be good for diagnosis but also needs SSM diagnostics on the transmision to see all well. THey are a PITA to diagnose faults though.

My UK Forester (2000 Wreg SF) does not have same key/remote as the remote is seperate to the key (genuine & original) but same in terms of 2 buttons, Not sure if reprogramable fobs work on UK/Euro as we had/have stricter rules than Japan on vehicle security & thus the chips in the remotes tend to be different & expect rolling code & possibly frequency not same too, permitted bands are different in Europe to US & to JDM. You can buy reprogramable & grabbing remote fobs here for around $30USD but I have never tried one to be sure, may look at my remote & see what chip is in it but basically we more like your key & seperate fob setup & probably closer to you on frequency & coding chips too .

Yes Any breakdown recovery guy should be to speed on manual release for automatics. Dragging it onto a flatbed is barbaric :-O Sudden notice of drive issue in cornering & wheelspin would suggest LSD issues .

I would also look at the xt2.5 ppp. Not much to look for really, good service history, clean oil, no piston slap, no signs of coolant loss or overheating & no body repair. sti tend be overpriced or less than perfect, xt2.5 ppp tend to be a steal & tend to be low mileage & unabused. Forester is more versitile over gtb, better resale market & far far better parts & service support options. A bike will go in back if wheel off but not the best for that, rear seats are split so can still seat people in back & a bike.

You have a shifter release on those under the cover to get out of park. Think your recovery crew need sending a repair bill & need go back to school ... Rough handing of the job could indeed of damaged LSD's

Yep always complain with motorfactors on price & if you sound knowledable ask why not trade rate. I pay around £50 for decent batteries with no quible warranty & never go budget brands as do't want hassle from !Removed! batts or warranty coming out of my pocket.

Yeh probably, not a brand I tried but price reasonable. Would try your local motorfactors too as they would be easier in terms of warranty returns 3 or 4 yrs & batteries not being used much tend die quick so you may find that useful for a free fresh one in few years ;-)

I would upgrade SWMBO to a lower emissions model :-D Not seen any common brands cover the frameless version. What make are yours stants ?

Think dealer only real option on frameless window foresters. front & rear kit is heading towards £200 I think, they are very good fit & quality though. Try more than one dealer as some will be cheaper ecspecially if got some stuck in stock & want clear them. I have some on my old SF & they not bad . Don't see many SF or SG's with them though .

I would of gone with quality camber bolts on strut/hub mount. Those camber bushes are a PITA in fitting & adjusting.

Knocking !? Do you here or feel the knocking or both ? How much steering lock is needed to cause it ? Does it happen left & right lock ? Do you here any noises when turn steering while stationary with engine running ?

Best bet if removing the standard unit & throwing it in the bin & getting after market unit custom fitted Doubt ashburton MW will be any real help on the sat nav long term.

Those diesels have been known have a few clutch issues although your dealer won't confirm that fact. You should get it checked & if no improvement through adjustment or repairs to the pedal & clutch release system it may need new clutch & dual mass flywheel & that big money so best get them sort it under warranty & don't fall for any dealer fluff on it as expect you paid decent price from the dealer & to be honest the should be doing all this prior to sale.

Funny thing is you can have almost 100k for belt & pulleys in some countries. I would not recommend to a customer on fitting a new water pump on a 50k-60k run of the mill subaru if it checks out ok & is original subaru pump as throwing quality parts away that would easily be serviceable till next belt service. I tend to always do pulleys on stuff unknown but cars we serviced for long time service record with us we run on alternating change & never had a failure. We also do all pulleys every change on all high performance models or extreme/special use.

Changing pulleys & pump every belt change interval is a bit un-needed, ideally can be done every other change for all but extreme use such as heavy track car application. You also need to remember the UK belt service points are very very low compared to other country service spec from subaru.