Mr B

Yes you got that right. diagnostic code will highlight particular sensor. With no other running faults it is likely a Lambda & the work in harsh conditions so never surprising after 13yrs use.

OBD2 dongles are cheap I bought 2 before xmas on auction from HongKong at £3.08 each. couple of links below but not as cheap as fixed price. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-Car-OBD-OBD2-OBDII-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-code-reader-Scanner-Tool-/261565896842?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3ce68ad88a http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM-327-Bluetooth-BT-OBD2-OBDII-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-Code-Reader-/221678007212?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item339d09f3ac If you don't have an android phone I can link you to a PC diagnosyic sofware for a notebook. Other option is using cable & the FreeSSM software which gives you close to main dealer diagnostics. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400786919123 You could also buy a autel reader which has handheld unit with lcd but they not so versitile. Besides the CEL do you have any running symptoms ? O2 sensor is quite easy remove but best do codes first as decent sensor not cheap. Main thing with fitting is to not handle the sensor nose or use sealants on thread as these things could poison a sensor easliy. Could even be broken sensor cable so check that should diagnostics be pointing to Lambda Sensor.

With your mileage & the vehicle age/mileage I wouldn't bother. Just sensible maintenance with attention paid to using top quality engine oil should keep you going for quite some time. Looking at a very decent independent subaru specialist would be good too.

Belt a bit loose, tightens via alternator adjustment ... belt works hard when cold as pump harder drive so normally squeals more at this point & when apply large amount of lock. Do check belt condition closely as if heavily cracked on inside ribs it may be wise buy a new one (not expensive) Belt link below > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-97-08-2-0-2-5-Petrol-Alternator-Fan-Belt-5PK880-/251912379770? * do also check power steering fluid level * Glad 2 here MOT jobbed :-) Don't buy a newer car they not as good :-P (seriously)

Well they are coilovers but they not high performance or great performance. Spring rates are ridiculous & on public highways they are dangerous. Subaru 4wd like good travel in struts which makes most of grip & chassis design. Spring rates on these kits would require a super smooth race track to be usable. All the low cost ones are basically same design & taiwan made junk. decent coilovers will cost more than twice this price. Look at options from Bilstien, lowering springs for current struts or cross fitting better inverted struts to your model perhaps.

probably best idea. I would look at sti inverted struts & wagon springs then get springcoil make custom springs using wagon springs as reference for changes (height/spring rate) I get few cars in with cheap coilovers & most owners end up changing as the cheap coilover range is all same junk with different branding. Bilstien, Ohlins, Proflex is the real stuff with one strut about same price as whole set of the taiwan tat ... I have done Bilstien inverted inserts in nissan struts & with good springs & setup they make your normal low cost coilovers look like the junk they are on road or track.

so the strut rod only has 3" of travel from full droop to full compression :-O With struts like that it next to impossible to set rod to a central point of travel & ride hight as want as both adjustment come from spring perch. set central they only have 1.5" of bump compression, dumped low the rod could be 1/4 to 1/2" off bottoming out of travel. From my experience of coilovers, types with 3" travel & single adjustment are next to useless for proper setup . problem you have with softer longer springs is they will like a strut with more stroke range & also want bottom platform adjustable to set height while spring platform used for setting rod position/pre-load & corner weights. Going be big gamble playing with springs I think ...

Best option for home users with ssm1 socket is making your own ssm1 cable or buying one & using it with freessm software on a notebook.

Sounds good opertunity & plans Rick. Cars have changed a lot but it all quite quick to learn, most of it comes down to personal interest in the job as then learn easy & enjoy it. Good luck with it.

ICP don't do chinese tat They pretty fussy on quality so it will be up to the job. Worth calling them to make order so no issue of wrong part.

I would just use quality standard style drop links . extra cash would make bigger difference spent on decent strut braces upper & lower. drop links > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-FORESTER-IMPREZA-LEGACY-01-10-REAR-STABILIZER-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINKS-X2-/171037535002?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ALegacy|Plat_Gen%3AMK+IV&hash=item27d2a1ab1a front anti-rollbar D bushes is the D shaped doughnut bush holding bar to car, could use powerflex or whiteline or quality standard replacement > expect poly-bushes around £40 & quality standard style £25 for pair . best checking parts with your car details as few variations in size ...

That indeed the ECU coolant sensor ICP do them & quite a few other sources too: * worth checking with them to confirm part via reg-chissis-engine number prior to buying * http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=4279&cat=0⊂=0&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forester-2-0-2-5-Turbo-NA-98-07-ECU-Water-Coolant-Temp-Temperature-Sensor-/271365238379?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AForester|Cars+Year%3A1999&hash=item3f2ea0ee6b Ideally want test sensor impedance over varying temp & see if it seems working/in parameters. Does plug-cable seem good. Bit of testing here good although sensor not over expensive if want chance it. Plenty of other things it could be & plugging in some diagnostics would be good to read faults & see what tenp signal the ECU getting if not flagging it faulty.

You would have trouble on codes readers for that model as expect ssm1 plug so need make own connector to use with freessm software, garage kit that works on these ain't cheap. If lucky you'll find something quickly/easily ..

Any luck with fault codes ! Ideally going need test some ignition components & crank/can sensors with multimeter & power supplies to them. Should be able dig up some tutorials if you google a bit. may find service manual below to help too > http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/

Quite hard do real long lasting job as does need all rust metal removed, pre weld primers applied prior to new sections added & likes of epoxy primers used due due high corrosion area. Inner side needs treatment too. Don't do bodywork myself & even in trade it hard get real quality, prices vary by 100% & big price not always the best work. Always get some idea on warranty against corrosion return, seen to many rear arches on nissan & subaru with repairs that don't make 2yrs & that shocking really with modern paints & chemicals ...

Re-linked to the front lower arm rear bushes just as confirmation we both singing from same hymn sheet N/S-left front lower arm REAR bush (MOT failure one) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200903868974 O/S-right front lower arm REAR bush (buy if want do pair, recommended) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200824608138 You can email or call that seller to confirm parts, I also suggest adding your registration number & basic model details to payment note if paying via PayPal as covers your **** a bit more & puts the ball fully in sellers court if wrong parts happened to be sent out. To be honest I could probably do rear lower arm bushes & both drop links in hours labour if all unbolted without a hitch, if original stuff on car & not messed up from poor previous spannering the Subarus come apart easy as decent quality fittings & engineering. couple of minor snags & 1.5hrs or 2hrs tops is possible but highly unlikely but a lot of garages like rounding up dramatically :-S

^ lol :-D to be honest I would still check pump for priming on ignition on as first step if I was to look at car as had scenario before where people say no spark but when get to test it, it sparks :-) Assume nothing test everything & start at basics is always way go ...

^ Yeh could of been a 6 speed conversion but seemed unlikely back in 2000 when he doing clutch job, who knows :-S Do you know weight of 6 speed box ? curious how much extra weight in that ... Front drive shaft are bit of mixture on 2nd gen vehicles with female shaft with stubs & male shafts too, vary on model version & even model version year.

drop links are super simple, just soak nut in advance with penetrating oil once a day for couple days till parts turn up.Only tip is if jack car up do both sides or the drop link will be under load from rollbar ... Lower arm rear bushes I linked to don't need a press as come with the alloy bracket so bolt on as is. They are easy but car needs be up on stands & bolts can be bit tight, you need mark a current mounting position & also make a central alignment mark from the threaded shaft of the lower arm that goes through the bush to a chalk mark on floor pan, This just helps realignment after assembly stay close to current setup. Basically you need undo big nut on lower arm going though bush then loosen 2 bolts & pull/pry lower arm down then fully undo/remove 2 bolts & wiggle/tap the bush off the lower arm. couple of rubber rings either side of bush & metal cap on out so observe part orientation for refitting. Bit of penetrating oil on things will make life easier. Fit new bush in reverse making sure it right side part & right way round. I charge 1hr labour for both rear bushes, it not hard but i'm on a ramp or over pit, working on floor with stands not so relaxing & also if not done it before you may struggle ! Ideally alignment wants doing after road test/bushes settling or even left until after MOT retest . For sure youtube will have rear bushes, they same on the inpreza so should find a good how to video or guide. Just be aware rear bush super easy do on car so whole lower arm does not need come off., one nut & 2 bolts and job jobbed ... service manual EU.pdf for 2004 Forester below as a bonus for you ... http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2004/

Yeh your linked bush works but needs fitting in original alloy bracket also that a caster adjusting bush & not what you want really Lower arm rear bushes I linked to come complete with alloy bracket & are decent quality & quick to fit. I use those for general standard replacement & do this for a living :-S Cheaper drop links can be had if you on a budget droplinks once again a simple job & half hours garage labour.

^ m reg was 94 unless private plate & no 6 speeds till 2nd gen.

That all cheap as chips >> drop links (top quality, mayle) less than £30 pair, Left & right are same part> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-Front-Right-Stabiliser-anti-roll-bar-DROP-LINK-ROD-No-34-16-060-0003-HD-/361074352328?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASG&hash=item5411b560c8 You don't say if lower arm is the rear bush or front bush I assume rear as that more expensive but not silly money Lower arm (left n/s) rear bush is less than £30 > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200903868974 Lower arm (right o/s) rear bush less than £30 > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200824608138 ** Lower arm rear bushes best done in pairs, trust me on that as I got 20years subaru experience. If lower arm front bush then it > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-FORESTOR-2-0-TURBO-2-5XT-1999-08-FRONT-LOWER-WISHBONE-ARM-FRONT-BUSH-/300881735917?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AForester|Plat_Gen%3ASG&hash=item460df2f0ed or (easy fit) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-SG-Impreza-GC-GD-Legacy-BC-BD-BE-Front-wishbone-front-bush-/271423547325?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f321aa7bd or (easy fit) http://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/product-details/Front+Wishbone+Front+Bush/1367.html EDIT: Okay you say front lower arm rears & that good as they super easy fit:-) Pair will cost less than £60

Probably STI as those boxes tend be bit heavier. might of just seemed that much bigger & heavier as u was stoned ! lol

^ in 1st post he stating he got no spark ...

earlier models had the split pin & splined stub shaft from gearbox turbo or non turbo. Pin is fork pivot & pulled out so fork can be cleared from pull bearing rather than the awful way of doing it on likes of evos.