Mr B

^ Is a pain, as you ssm1 it won't work, freeSSM works on ssm2 obd1&2, evoscan will read live sensor data/log on ssm1 but if you look at the drop down box for selecting DCT method it also only supports DCT from ssm2 :-/

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=09993311988300458276

The freeSSM software is cable only, your dongle & iphone app should be enough to get basic idea of no faults (hopefully) & fact ecu diagnostics are functioning.

Sounds very much like a drop link, your forester as metal ball joint type such as linked below. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEYLE-Front-Left-Stabiliser-anti-roll-bar-DROP-LINK-ROD-No-34-16-060-0003-HD-/351180974431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3AForester&hash=item51c404695f What is front tyre wear like ! also check pressures as if low the forester handles awful. If can't spot the cause of noise easily then it needs good looking at, should be easy find to be honest as don't sound anything too out the ordinary but best checked/concluded as safety issue. Would imagine what you feeling in roundabout is traction control response if not related to source of noise. Not a big fan of foresters from 2005 onwards, changed to awful style front wishbone & the traction control & early diesel was rubbish, the SF & SG to 2004 are absolute superb though :-/

^ which kit depends if want water pump, one with - one without As for oil pumps I think you best just swapping the the prv plunger for a custom fully smooth plunger over rcm/ggr pump housings.

Basically the gauge should not fluctuate much over the normal hot running point, jap cars tend be very efficient on temp control & don't spike so high before fans kick in etc so overall the coolant stays in a tighter controlled range. You could get a data reader display for the OBD output to read coolant & other values or adding some extra guages is not a bad idea.

Turbos are water cooled so for general road use turbo timers are waste of time, effort & money totally. Common sense is good though & thrashing a cold turbo engine is not good, also after hard drive short distance at light pace helps take heat out quickly compared to stationary with engine running. Main trick is quality ester synthetic oil & frequent change with quality filter, turbo & the motor love quality clean oil.

ICP kits with dayco belt are superb, all bearings & tensioner are same as original. Dayco is part of company that does subaru OEM belts. Water pumps from ICP are also top quality Jap.(Aisin normally) Second option is ADL Blueprint kits/pump.

Software freeSSM https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfNHVKZE13clFxc1E/view?usp=sharing OBD2 cable with ISO9141 support http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400786919123

^ making cables is for the earlier cars without OBD2, yours is OBD2 so ebay link at bottom good for you .

links for ssm & cable in this post > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/10869-help-forester-diagnostics/#entry63645

CEL can't see a fuse causing that as it fed from ecu. Is a bit odd & not a common one to come across, if all else functions normally & diagnostics working normally one would assume EML (CEL) light at fault.

What year is it ! could be LED rather than bulb !

Probably bulb so best dash cluster is pulled so can be checked. Not unusual for a bulb or 2 to be blown.

not connected to ecu as that transponder in the key. alarm & fob run separate to that. Sigma is not that bad & don't see that many issues for amount that are about. Quite like Autowatch alarms, well built equipment, company use to do military electronics.

I would say no as the holes for subaru original camber bolt are machined specific to work with it & keep bolt size.standard. Only reason they stopped doing rear was cost I would assume. nothing bodgy about using camber bolts on rear & certainly better setting camber right rather than ignoring it as no suitable adjustment . If go aftermarket camber bolts buy quality brand ones & fit correct inc torque & will be fine as rear is far less stressed than front anyway ...

Only issue with not declaring is in proper accident when you have no opportunity of swapping to original & vehicle gets looked at buy inspection engineer you run risk of insurers giving you the middle finger & voiding your cover. Playing ignorant don't work either, insurance companies love people who do it as it like giving them the cover money for no cover. Shop around as a fair few specialist insurers would not want extra for those sort of basic changes. recirc is best on MAF sensors anyway really, if you log the MAF readings & fuelling with wideband you would see why.

Nothing scaremongering about it, recirc on maf systems keeps measured air & fuelling far better during change than an atmospheric. Everyone likes the 'woosh' & tuners happy take your $ Some atmospheric valves are less problematic & certain MAF systems more sensitive to atmospherics so results vary.

double post :-S

With MAF sensor you far better sticking with recirc, if you datalog a non recirc they normally always have some issues with fuelling being less than perfect directly after opening period, in worst cases you get hesitation, combination of some valves & MAFs being worse.

If after performance throw the valve in the bin. Open venting is nothing but a noise mod with downsides.

^ Mmm looks that way, I've looked at hundreds over the years & generally can sense a good car from the ad & a chat on phone. You got look well though & test everything, also ignore the seller & use your own judgement. Hopefully you learnt bit more & will get it right next purchase :-S

I'm in the trade & I almost never buy from dealers. dealers are the worst for lies, over pricing tat & ripping you off Best cars are always found privately ... Faults don't sound too bad but certainly going make expensive car :-/ Not a good start but hopefully no more issues arise ... good luck.

Get your money back & learn from experience to check a car thoroughly. I always try buy private as better cars, better people & better prices.

Import from UK perspective of docks to registered is super straight forward for 10yr+ old cars. Biggest hassle is buying blind besides pics & vids, it ok for import companies as they have staff/agents but even then they get some 5hit, Torque GT very near me & I done reports for buyers a few times over the years & I see a fair bit of scruff. Ideally you need view in person & have japanese export firm handle japan to uk docks.