Mr B

Only different in terms of additional sensors, P0031 is very much generic OBD stadard for all front oxygen sensors.

As above, wires to sensor need checking including tracing them back into the car under dash as have come across a loose connector issue here at least twice before on imrezas of same year range ... also don't assume new sensor not faulty as some can be so needs testing .

So have you checked the voltage feed to pump & earth with a multimeter, tried a tempory earth to chassis. Your pressure regulator is purely mechanical/vacum I think. You got any alarm/imobilizer system with fuel cut !

If the car runs ok it can't be much. If you don't get much conclusion from codes you need use OBD iso9141 cable (less than £4 on eBay) & freeSubaruSelectMonitor sofware to see alll the sensor values & look at Lambda sensors more closely. OBD cable (bought & tested one of these at beginning of new year) > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KKL-VAG-COM-409-1-USB-Cable-car-Scanner-Diagnostic-Tool-for-OBD2-Audi-VW-SEAT-/400786919123?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d50c30ed3 Thread with sofware links > http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/10869-help-forester-diagnostics/#entry63645

Boot space & ride height = Outback Best buys tend be Outbacks & XT Foresters as easy find almost perfect examples at very sensible prices.

Its hydraulic MPT clutch for centre drive split. Pluging the fuse for FWD could be good for diagnosis but also needs SSM diagnostics on the transmision to see all well. THey are a PITA to diagnose faults though.

My UK Forester (2000 Wreg SF) does not have same key/remote as the remote is seperate to the key (genuine & original) but same in terms of 2 buttons, Not sure if reprogramable fobs work on UK/Euro as we had/have stricter rules than Japan on vehicle security & thus the chips in the remotes tend to be different & expect rolling code & possibly frequency not same too, permitted bands are different in Europe to US & to JDM. You can buy reprogramable & grabbing remote fobs here for around $30USD but I have never tried one to be sure, may look at my remote & see what chip is in it but basically we more like your key & seperate fob setup & probably closer to you on frequency & coding chips too .

Yes Any breakdown recovery guy should be to speed on manual release for automatics. Dragging it onto a flatbed is barbaric :-O Sudden notice of drive issue in cornering & wheelspin would suggest LSD issues .

I would also look at the xt2.5 ppp. Not much to look for really, good service history, clean oil, no piston slap, no signs of coolant loss or overheating & no body repair. sti tend be overpriced or less than perfect, xt2.5 ppp tend to be a steal & tend to be low mileage & unabused. Forester is more versitile over gtb, better resale market & far far better parts & service support options. A bike will go in back if wheel off but not the best for that, rear seats are split so can still seat people in back & a bike.

You have a shifter release on those under the cover to get out of park. Think your recovery crew need sending a repair bill & need go back to school ... Rough handing of the job could indeed of damaged LSD's

Yep always complain with motorfactors on price & if you sound knowledable ask why not trade rate. I pay around £50 for decent batteries with no quible warranty & never go budget brands as do't want hassle from !Removed! batts or warranty coming out of my pocket.

Yeh probably, not a brand I tried but price reasonable. Would try your local motorfactors too as they would be easier in terms of warranty returns 3 or 4 yrs & batteries not being used much tend die quick so you may find that useful for a free fresh one in few years ;-)

I would upgrade SWMBO to a lower emissions model :-D Not seen any common brands cover the frameless version. What make are yours stants ?

Think dealer only real option on frameless window foresters. front & rear kit is heading towards £200 I think, they are very good fit & quality though. Try more than one dealer as some will be cheaper ecspecially if got some stuck in stock & want clear them. I have some on my old SF & they not bad . Don't see many SF or SG's with them though .

I would of gone with quality camber bolts on strut/hub mount. Those camber bushes are a PITA in fitting & adjusting.

Knocking !? Do you here or feel the knocking or both ? How much steering lock is needed to cause it ? Does it happen left & right lock ? Do you here any noises when turn steering while stationary with engine running ?

Best bet if removing the standard unit & throwing it in the bin & getting after market unit custom fitted Doubt ashburton MW will be any real help on the sat nav long term.

Those diesels have been known have a few clutch issues although your dealer won't confirm that fact. You should get it checked & if no improvement through adjustment or repairs to the pedal & clutch release system it may need new clutch & dual mass flywheel & that big money so best get them sort it under warranty & don't fall for any dealer fluff on it as expect you paid decent price from the dealer & to be honest the should be doing all this prior to sale.

Funny thing is you can have almost 100k for belt & pulleys in some countries. I would not recommend to a customer on fitting a new water pump on a 50k-60k run of the mill subaru if it checks out ok & is original subaru pump as throwing quality parts away that would easily be serviceable till next belt service. I tend to always do pulleys on stuff unknown but cars we serviced for long time service record with us we run on alternating change & never had a failure. We also do all pulleys every change on all high performance models or extreme/special use.

Changing pulleys & pump every belt change interval is a bit un-needed, ideally can be done every other change for all but extreme use such as heavy track car application. You also need to remember the UK belt service points are very very low compared to other country service spec from subaru.

Should be right, check it is a 4 wire sensor & if so I suspect that correct. P013 codes always relate to first sensor. Could try ICP (import car parts) if get stuck on your current supplier.

short trip driving is about the worse you can have for an engine. Oil never reaches full temp for long enough periods to remove moisture & fuel from oil. Best thing you can do is use a decent synthetic, ester based if can afford it & change perhaps at 3000 mile intervals or 2 years which ever comes first. You can never change your oil too much but then you also don't want to be wasting the oil from extreme over service.

Yeh they basically same in principal as both types are hydraulic. Your type has the hydraulic over spring assembly in the separate alloy cylinder that then pushes the piston onto a tab on the pulley. Later type has the pulley & hydraulic over spring assembly all in one working as a pivoting arm. I like the earlier one too as hydraulic unit stronger & the pulley is stronger in mounting too. Got that type on my old 95 Legacy ... Not everything new is better, bit like front wishbone bushing idea on the 05 onward foresters went a bit junk ...

Yeh the original pumps can go for years as superb quality, i've seen a few original pumps at close to 20years & almost 200k. I tend to advise on pump around 100k but if pump seem good when inspected it can be chanced, once over 140k I don't give them choice on pump. On performance subarus I would insist on new quality pump at 100k, just don't like chancing it on well wazzed motors ... Main thing is replace with top quality jap pump from ICP or BluePrint. Only around £50 Meyle pumps ok for run of the mill cheap subaru budget option (£31) but likes of Circoli should be avoided at all costs. A 150k mile original subaru pump would still be better than a tat Euro Circoli pump.

I would of personally bought the kit off of ICP as only like maybe £60 more for idler/pulleys to be included. You can get away without replacing them but that depends on car mileage & known history. Same goes with water pump over 100K I tend to be inclined to do it for extra £55 for quality Jap pump. waterpump acts as idler on back of cambelt so some pump failures can fubar your cambelt. Subaru pumps are damn good though so not something that should be done on engines first belt change but on 2nd or 3rd it getting good idea. Tensioners are all hydraulic driven by spring & oneway restriction valve mainly due to the boxer belt run length.