Mr B

You can reuse the old top mounts if not a rusted mess (generally they are good order) & the lower rubber seats (insulators) are reusable. You will add another potential £100 to the cost buying all these new in quality brand . I get the insulator rubber seats from amayama via UAE, For a pair it probably cost £15 . Top mounts would be KYB SM5422 preferably (Left & Right are same so buy 2), cheaper option Kamoka currently but ideally reuse originals unless seriously corroded/perished mess which generally they not without other areas showing serious corrosion . Part links > top mounts KYB https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174630875249 top mounts Kamoka https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303871243537 rubber spring seat insulators https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/20375fc001

she wants a spring and spring not expensive on SH forester .

The battery life is short thanks to high parasitic draw when vehicle in sleep state and inefficient charge control all of which basically poor engineering choices . It a massive problem with so called eco vehicles creating lot of waste thanks to part and vehicle short lifespans thanks to the garbage engineering and garbage part quality and wasting owners money by the bucket load . It not exclusive to Subaru, caveat emptor . A genuine battery in a Japanese car use to last close to 8years, today you will be lucky if the whole eco car still cost viable last 8 years and it probably used over 8 batteries as well lol . environmental genius !

RA6028 springs sound ideal for you then and what I recommend as keeps vehicle more usable, They only £20 more than the RC6431 as a pair . KYB is 99% what we use on these as good quality and currently prices very good . Is very common on SF and SG foresters to have sagging rear suspension around 14 years old or anywhere between 90K and 130K pending on vehicle usage and luck , Fortunately it pretty cheap resolve and to be fair shocks well worth replacing on old and high mileage vehicles anyway . You will need new bump stop rubbers as they generally not suitable for reuse, KYB do these in shock protection kits and include shock protection bellow at £21 for whole kit covering 2 shocks. Protection kit KYB 910046 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234359305433 It super easy job fitting the shocks, is a thread on here walking through process with few tips .

Technically you will have none that match if check via vin or reg as your Foz has Subaru own design high pressure gas over hydraulic self levelling system and no one does a self levelling replacement shocks beside genuine subaru (made by Tokico Japan) . The good news is the units you got fit but you MUST pair with springs that non self levelling spec (SLS). SLS spring are softer as the high pressure in a SLS strut assists the spring and that how it gets height control (uses valves and hydraulics and strut motion as a pump) . If you use original springs the rear sags same as with original struts with failed SLS . Ideally you want use KYB springs RA6028 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274891435996 They (RA6028) are 14.6mm thick coils and give best ride height on aftermarket shocks. If you do absolute no towing and carry no heavy load you can use KYB springs RC6431 but these can sit a little on low side of standard ride height spec as they lighter duty with 13.5mm thick coils The factory SLS spec springs are 12.5mm thick coils and CAN NOT be used with aftermarket shocks . Is a fair few threads on this forrum covering rear suspension, I always use KYB 334344 and KYB 334345 for rear shocks as they cheap on eBay as overstock clearance and they made in japan quality plus KYB is an OEM for Subaru (original front struts and top mounts all made by KYB)

You just fit/weld a repair flange section in and fit new bolts/springs . worst case scenario on that join is both front pipe and centre pipe flanges are rotted and need replacing . Decent exhaust specialist should sort that pretty easy, highly unlikely need replace whole front pipe unless well corroded . Exact cost really depends on state of corrosion of your exhaust and whether you can get away with just front pipe flange side of joint needing replacement .

For preventative repair you should be able get that done way cheaper than your dealer quote . plenty good mls head gaskets from original to rcm cosworth etc .

It was only graphite gaskets on some non turbo engines that had known issues & TSB . Subaru mls gaskets are pretty good, head design along with maintenance driving style and tune is more linked to failures . With high mileage and if been leaking for a long time you could require more than just head gaskets, more so if been tuned. Really need engine health assessment before considering repair options .

look at you front grille and see if it early design or facelift design . I wouldn't recommend aftermarket complete mirrors as quality/fit is far from great , would need be rhd compliant mirrors too for rhd model for wide angle glass be correct, some don't even use wide angle glass . you better off hunting used original parts, facebook marketplace can turn up some local cars being broken , try local salvage yards too . Mirrors can be spendy, actually had a 2001 outback that was initially an insurance right off due to 2 mirrors in the shop last year .

KYB Sachs or Bilstein is aftermarket shock options You can pick up used easy enough as plenty scrapped diesel foresters 2009/2013 . New Subaru OEM not crazy money . Easy enough reuse spring, insulators and top mounts if they all good order . Don't go cheap/off brand parts as they garbage in no time or even right out the box lol . If you use forester off road a bit hard beat the OEM struts as they have slightly more compression and droop range and built more stout .

It a case of toyota share some of the tech, Issue is a mess and thought they learnt after the diesel crank fiasco . Unfortunately most new cars are an expensive misery to live with, you far better keeping your money and hand picking better made older vehicles . I got no idea why people waste 25K-35K on new garbage so easily, I wouldn't want newer vehicles if given to me free . awful quality and engineering . Nothing eco about newer cars, most will be scrap in 8 years and filled garage scrap/waste bins with parts/chemical waste and emptied owners bank accounts thanks to endless faults .

main dealer your best bet & they not totally silly price . Is another thread on here covering a bit more detail on SH rear springs .

Buy quality and clean examples of older models. Anything new and more so with hybrid tech will be 'issues' you get tired of very quickly .

Exactly this,while ev may not have a tail pipe it will be producing problem pollutants in its manufacture, maintenance and constant demand of grid power . The real truth lies in analysis of birth to death of vehicle and the new stuff falls short as it consumes hell of a lot of parts and is likely have far shorter lifespan . Batteries are far from friendly in manufacture and same for solar panels especially if consider all the open mining for raw materials, recycling batteries is difficult procedure too either in smelting or chemical leeching and it made harder by all manufacturers having secret battery recipes that makes efficient recycling harder. Trouble is current environmentalism is purely targetting consumer wallets, the real answers unfortunately don't make the same profits .

+1, for genuine that decent price and assume you likely get 10% off that if say you a subaru club member . Is worth noting eBay got 20% off code LOVE20OFF at moment so you could get this SKF at sensible money (£55) from parts in motion (we use them a lot and stock parts using 20% codes as sometimes it stupid cheap) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334242300694 (Check with seller by sending reg to confirm part correct) Is lot of poor quality parts aftermarket these days (ECP and NAPA being 2 pumping lot of garbage) so we tend use original more than ever for suspension parts and elec sensors as prices can be that close but the quality and function is no where near close lol . Garbage parts and most factors stocking garbage is one of biggest problems in car repair trade today . Diff swarf looks normal ...

That a really clever alignment tool idea, perfect solution for alignment but not good for holding pulley for removal or fitting of bolt . Main thing got be careful of when holding pulley to remove tight bolt is whatever method you using doesn't damage teeth edges on pulley .

use a piece of wood and screw belt into sides of it. that about simplest diy simple tool option you can make a really nice tool if got a welder or can use thick angle iron and cut notches in it to slip belt in and out of . main thing that keeps them tight is factory loctite, bit of heat from plumbers style gas torch can help, don't go mad on heat hough or ruin cam seal .

^ is this still the original sigma alarm module . the receiver and antenna are all part of main sigma alarm module . If pincode working then does point to remote receiver issue thus good working used sigma module likely the easy and sensible cost fix . Had anything been done to car prior to fault that likely effected it such as welding (welding voltage can damage electronics) or other work that might of damaged wiring or antenna wire off the module ? Anything in your current location that could be interfering with fob transmission ...

simplest trick is make tool using old cam belt .

Did replacement sigma come with a code or working keyfob ? did you try doing anything with pin or fob on that unit ? I never done a relearn with siren disconnected, you can but try . If you getting no where you going need source good working used sigma module and be sure buy one with code and/or remote fob supplied . You can buy a bypass plug that goes into the main harness to sigma module that would bypass the sigma immobiliser and get car usable, also can google for m30 bypass wiring/instructions & get car usable while source parts or consider direction want take with final repair solution .

yeah the burns and mcrae subaru era was last of the great manufacturer/drivers and spectator rallying days . My forester and outback have enabled me take diversions from collisions with ease over grass verges and pavements etc . they also do offer pretty good safety in moderate accidents . Last time I almost had an accident due to unmarked police car going down middle of b road on a sweeping bend in fairly poor conditions almost causing me rear end car in front and suv behind me went into grass verge, I was in work diesel 206 van, if I had been in forester or outback I gone over the verge as been safest option . In a lot of circumstances they do give you more ability and more options .

The part you ordered would need programming to work with your ecu and it not likely the issue . You problem is more than likely main module of the M30 alarm . Internal relays on boards can go bad on these and parts can be replaced from a donor board (M30 modules can be had for under £20 if have no code or remote fob with them) A used M30 alarm supplied with pin code and/or working remote is anything between 80 and £120 pending on luck and urgency, it pretty easy plug and play to switch over (we done a lot this way as neat cost effective solution) Last option is bypass it which quite easy and google can help, you loose remote locking and it more of a compromise result over fixing M30 system .

Very eco friendly these new cars when either got do extra joy rides to top up charge or buy trickle charge equipment and keep them constantly on charge All the short life batteries nice bit of recycling pollution too lol . **** poor engineering and completely unfit for purpose if can't leave them unused for over a month . Personally I would take it back and ask for money back, then go buy a proper engineered and built subaru from 1997 to 2005 year range cherry picking best used example you can find . Bank the saved money and live hassle free for a decade plus . Newer vehicles are waste of money and waste of time dealing with the faults & listening to dealer excuses ...

impreza G12 07> Legacy B13 models . based on the superseded part number of 06 onwards 20202AG180 (right) 20202AG190 (left)

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