Mr B

level of rust really depends on how vehicle been used/cleaned, I see a few 23 year old foresters that 100% solid and clean underneath, one of which lived on farm for good 15 years but it regularly wash underneath . If yours is a mess then a subframe/arm swap to very good used example is way to go. Brand new subframe possibly around 300 to 400 pound range but by time you add all bolts/washes/nuts/bushes it serious money. Your best bet is buy a dead engine clean forester diesel off of marketplace gumtree ebay etc and take all suspension parts needed and anything else that better/spares and weigh in the rest . (up to around 2014 should be same subframe/setup) Used Subaru Parts Ltd is in collumpton devon so they perhaps useful . First thing do is be 100% sure how far you need/want go, is the subframe like a wet weetabix or is it just bad surface corrosion but still solid .

avoid subaru diesel at all cost and modern diesels in general . If you want bombproof then old is gold and your 4K more than needed . Outback or Forester would be my recommendation, very late 90's to early 2005 being better made and packing benefits of less troublesome expensive and wasteful emission equipment and some benefits on road tax . Outback hard to find manual transmission and the bombproof engine on those is the ez 6 cylinders (the are a marvel) The Forester 2.0 is an amazingly versatile vehicle but boot not massive but still might be enough for you and they great on visibility and manoeuvring better than many tiny hatchbacks, they a brilliant all rounder and can be incredibly low cost run for what can do with one . SG forester up to 2005 can be good buy and you got enough budget buy proper nice one and have money left for any niggles like new set of tyres and some servicing work if needed . Don't be bothered about age, newer isn't more reliable, far from it actually . Main thing is proper good look under rear for rust, subframes and rear suspension can suffer on these . Engines should be a smooth pur and rumble when revved, check all electrics, front window motors can fail but they cheap fix (read the forum) Forester rear self levelling suspension can sag buy again can be fixed fairly easy . Try an view a few local even if not exact model you want as you only get good idea on good vs bad once gained knowledge looking at a lot . If buy carefully could be cheapest most reliable most usable vehicle you owned .

Suspension on those is same design as forester outback and xv . You may find shocks from those models will fit and can use original exiga springs. rears for example are same left and right so good ones start on for a physical fit match . As mentioned above ICP worth calling as probably could source oem, from past experience I pretty sure the shock part numbers on YA4 YA5 exiga are exiga specific but that don't mean won't have indirect part match .

Assume you referring to lower lateral link on the rear and perhaps the trailing link also rusty Used from a breakers local or via eBay would be best cost solution, diesel SH and later SJ is same suspension arms and plenty of them are scrapped (can buy them complete with failed engines for less than 500 quid and plenty dead ones around in devon) . If doing bushes only use oem or top end brand aftermarket . Suspension is one of those areas if buy the wrong brand parts you have more clonks and rattles by your next mot lol . New genuine bushes are not expensive, companies like ICP and subaru parts specialists selling on eBay give you pretty good pricing for original parts. New arms won't be that cheap but used can be and with a bit of effort you should find decent used . If rear end crusty it be worth cleaning it off and getting suspension parts and subframe sprayed with corrosion wax/oil treatment as will save some future big bills and make things look more respectable .

ideal candidate for a used part, likely get one in 2 to 3 days and only be around £100 ish . Why waste perfectly good money and material resources on new when can do your wallet and the world a favour salvaging genuine used parts .

simply read the linked manual ... Resetting PIN code: If you do not have the current PIN, then follow option A. However if you do not have a working Radio Key, then you will have to use option B and obtain the systems PIN code from Subaru (UK). Your dealer can obtain this for you if you can provide proof of ownership and the alarm systems 16-digit serial number. A.Using a working Radio Key: - Arm and then Disarm the system using a working Radio Key. - Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- *17856*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where wxyz is your new PIN code) - Arm the system with the Radio Key - You should now be able to disarm the system using the new PIN code B. Using the current PIN Code (if a working Radio Key is not available): - Arm and then Disarm the system using the current PIN - Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- **abcd*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where abcd is your current PIN code and wxyz your new PIN code) - You should now be able to arm and disarm the system using the new PIN code When using the keypad always observe the following points: - The PIN number should not be entered too quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered. - If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between entering digits exceeds10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be abborted and started again after 30 seconds. - Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find a rubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN. - The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will "Lock Up" if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a security feature to prevent random PIN attempts disarming the system.

yours is a sigma m30 alarm . read the M30 alarm manual linked in my first post . my guess is keyfob faulty, not uncommon have bad button . Ideally want test if it transmitting, mail order keyfob repair services are available for around £30 You can buy keyfobs used off ebay and program them (read manual for programming) Yours should be keyfob built into key, with these you can buy same style used and swap board and program . your keyfob should be like below ! sometimes they get replaced with single button keychain fob . What ever you do don't go to a subaru dealer or you will be missing several hundred quid .... * NOTE while you got one working remote setup a 4 digit password before doing anything else (read manual to see how do it)

denso nissens if want proper decent. nrf not bad if want balance cost a bit . don't buy cheap options as they generally garbage and many times leak straight out the box or fittings snapped off / poor fit .

No that not reasonable . It a 3 hour job on average as they super easy access . Don't be fooled by " it a boxer it hard to do" These cars are very easy work on for most common jobs, far nicer deal with as a mechanic than euro garbage . You mainly get high bills as garage really got minimal experience working on them so you paying for their education hours . Hard say how good part price is as that totally depends on parts brand being supplied . I use all oem idlers, oem tensioner, aisin pump and dayco belt and part price including coolant would be 220 currently . One thing I will highlight is YOU MUST know exactly what part brand being used (on any repair work) and if all idlers/tensioner being replaced, if lower quality parts being used you generally better off not having work done as spending good money to reduce quality is reason so many people have lot of problems as they thrown better quality/original parts in bin . Part quality in aftermarket has never been so poor, you got educate yourself and do some research if want good work and sensible pricing .

No, that not fair, top price on that for japanese parts (mainly oem) would be £450 . They very easy/quick to do on boxer engine, if do water pump it MUST be a top quality part (japan only) which means original or Aisin . You can get all idlers and tensioners oem for sensible money, dayco belts or Aisin are good, avoid likes of Gates kits and and any euro or chinese parts as all you be doing is spending money to reduce reliability/longevity . you probably could go longer due to minimal mileage on current parts but what was done/replaced and what quality of work and parts ! Cheap parts and fitted poorly and not replacing critical idlers makes it a gamble unless check it or know what level of job done last time . I seen lot of issues from garbage timing belt parts & not replacing idler pulleys, water pumps on non turbos tend last couple decades and couple hundred thousand miles as original FHI made pumps are extremely well made as they knew it critical concern in timing belt design .

a, assume you likely have non standard head unit install . b,just fit battery and you done unless keyfob faulty . c, the alarms are sigma units (M30) installed in UK to comply with euro legislation the keypad you see is to arm/disarm and enter special functions/[rograming options using a 4 pin code . It very worthwhile having a 4 pin code. good news is you can program a new code as long as have a working keyfob. My advice is do so as can become a ballache and serious money waste if neglect the issue and keyfobs fail/lost etc . The real M30 manual is linked below ... https://docs.google.com/document/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=118227053694960733297&resourcekey=0-0xC3ClnW4kKEblPzZbcQag&rtpof=true&sd=true

it moulded in. You can swap keyfob boards if needed and transponder chip if needed .

A 2010 2011 2012 1013 subaru diesel still got a lot of problems, DPF injector learning and crank failure still present. DPF is a complete engineering and environment farce you best avoiding (only buy diesels pre euro5 emissions) Crank failure pretty much gives you scrap on wheels and they all will do it given enough time . Modern diesels are pretty much useless and end up costly ballache and only worth owning if doing incredibly high annual mileage . If you want a Forester then petrol is far better and saves money from reliability and simpler servicing requirements, also don't assume newer better, old ones far better built for dailly rough country commute chores. After 2008 they went down hill rapidly (this same for pretty much all car brands). The SF foresters still going while most the diesel ones scrapped or on eBay and autotrader for 500 quid spare or repair as crank snapped ... I had a few customers who had crank failure and it a sad situation when got tell them bad news of repair cost and current scrap value of 200 quid on a good day .

Generally these engines don't leak or burn oil . Just check your oil when filling up with petrol . I wouldn't be over concerned on rear suspension saggy as it not expensive or difficult replace with KYB and likely even if get one that fine it may need doing during your ownership. Subframe rust and rear turret/arch/sill end cap area is harder fix and potentially costly ongoing problem . Good clean ones are well worth extra effort finding and paying bit extra as you will get your money back ten times over in reduced repairs and no niggly problems . Problem with foresters is they so versatile they tend to of been used pretty hard by at least one owner, automatics easier find very clean, manuals getting harder find nice condition . Good luck and hope you get one as can be incredibly reliable and useful for very little cost ...

once a year for average usage . Changing oil & filter on these is pretty easy, you could drain on a slope and measure slightly short on refill then drive somewhere close with flat lay-by or car park to check level and top up . Service parts are very affordable, blueprint do nice oil filters . Check rear suspension not looking low if still original as common on these as self levelling struts don't last much over this age . Subframes and inner rear arch/turrets also want proper good inspecting for rust . Front window motors and drivers switch about the only other repeat failure see on these early SG models but can be fixed for small money .

When press auto down or up can you here any momentary activity at motor ? What I would be doing is putting scope on motor to see current drawer and what voltage getting in general and on auto button cycle . How free is glass/regulator movement ? Has window worked properly in your ownership or it faulty from when purchased and did you see refurbed motor work multiple cycles perfectly in another foz ? You got be careful with those switches as subaru has nasty habit of using same connectors but revised component and wiring at different build dates, can end up doing lot of expensive damage on newer version subarus with 5v monitoring circuits on window motors . Without looking at it I still be suspicious of motor current tripping thermally . If you can't test it well your best way forward would be pull passenger rear motor and first try refurbed front in rear door and rear door in the front as will conclude motor status from the puzzle . If don't want pull rear you can buy a nice used rear passenger motor for less than £30 .

Motors are super common on these due to water ingress (done hundreds of them) . only 2 power wires on motor so easy test and can wire either way round as polarity switches for up and down ... Read the thread linked for some info . I'll try link a used rear motor (don't buy a front as be well used and likely got some water ingress plus they over charge for fronts . Don't buy new pattern part or refurbed as they are ALL garbage ... genuine used rear passenger is best option ... Genuine new is stupid money (£200 roughly) Here's a rear passenger motor on regulator, 3 screws to take it off regulator and fit to your regulator, is easy but make best effort on bit fitment as if cam out the screws inside the door the whole regulator got be pulled . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152943272283?hash=item239c21215b:g:Jo8AAOSwklBap7OM job jobbed ...

it not just e-forester/subaru, most modern vehicles have lot of issues. As an engineer I recommend buying older proper made and designed vehicles, new cars are waste of money and material, pretty much constant landfill of parts and unusable junk in in 5 to 10 years

Is likely Fob broken, the push switch often needs replacing when old and well used. so worth testing fob working (emitting signal) Is plenty options for Fob repair mail order service at sensible pricing . Also easy pick up used fobs to either swap internal or use as is and as a spare . Most important thing with alarms is always have a spare fob or at very least have the 4 digit pin and have tested using it ... To add fobs read the M30 alarm manual, you need a working fob or the pin code to enter alarm parameters for learning Fobs ... M30 Alarm document .

It not just Subau, The Hybrid tech is toyota and german brands such as BMW also have battery issues. Simply engineering stupidity with far too much power consumption and poor system and battery charge status management/engineering all made even worse by general p1ss poor quality of modern car components . You can buy some of the best made cars ever from late 90's to mid 200's for few grand and they will still have decade of faultless life left in them, Spend 20 to 40 grand at dealers on newer tech and it painful misery emotionally and financially . My car is 21 years old, doubt I spend 50 quid a year on parts on average in last decade and I never had a flat battery seen a CEL fault or broken down . People need educate themselves to current issue of engineering stupidity/manufactured garbage and put an end to it by simply being smart enough not to buy it . I spend roughly 10 hours a day 5 and a half days a week working on this junk and most cars newer than 2008 I wouldn't want if you gave it to me free .

^ What an environmentally brilliant bit of engineering when you got do wasteful trips just so the thing will keep working and you not chucking another destroyed battery carcass in the waste centre . And to think you actually paying painfully earned money for this garbage too ! Get rid of it and buy quality older vehicles that far better engineered and about 3 times the component quality .

^ Indeed as a mechanical engineer I find current engineering trends of eco stability complete lunacy . Quite simply you can not fix the damage of industrialism with more industrialism . All these batteries and solar panels rely on diesel powered machinery and oil in production stages and finally people driving round in diesel and petrol vehicles fitting the products which have a short working life as quality is appalling with reason being it reduced pollution in manufacture to make modern eco product spec garbage ! where the logic in that !!! (only logic is you need replace more frequent so someone making more money) If you start looking at landscape damage from sourcing base materials and damage from electrical power plants of any type that going be needed keep potential grid supply capability for the amazing eco battery future you have a MASSIVE environmental impact issue greater than anything so far . The only thing eco marketing and legislation been good at is scr3wing mr average out of more of his hard earned money for garbage ideas and products . Things going get even worse as ability to repair is going be restricted even further with more basic parts being coded and no affordable aftermarket parts and restriction on part manufacture used and who can fit them all under the disguise it environment and safety concerns !!! Farm and construction equipment suffering a lot from this and it spreading thanks to companies like Apple that now coding phone parts so highly difficult repair as can't even swap used original parts without specialist coding . We all being lied to and about time a lot of people started thinking and researching rather than following marketed nonsense . The real answer is clever products that last decades and easily repaired but unfortunately you can't make so much money doing that so world got suffer to the bitter end unfortunately ...

In the trade it refereed to dumb charge . They would save more fuel if reduced weight by throwing lot of the electronic garbage in the bin . You would also reduce landfill and pollution from all the short life battery waste and constant part replacement and poor mpg from emission engineering (diesel DPF prime proof of this issue) and excess system weight and horrendous exhaust cleaning chemicals needed in keeping newer cars usable . My battery waste recycling collection has doubled over last 4 years as we get quite a pile and keeping too many on premises is an issue with insurance and safety inspections . The modern world is a ballache and headache of stupidity just snowballing issues that never really needed re-engineering in first place . I remember a time when an OEM battery lasted 7 to 8 years and alternators worked faultless for 15 to 20 years ! People could leave their car parked up for 3 months and when came back to use it, it would still start. You didn't need read forums to do hack modifications and didn't need carry jump packs and lucky charms lol . What amazes me is people still stupid enough go out buying this garbage for 20 to 40 grand of hard earned real money when can buy far better made older cars for few grand that work better, far more reliable and cheaper run long term and potentially better environmentally based on vehicle life to death pollution waste .

What year (2006 !) also do a pic of your switch pack original and replacement, top and bottom if possible showing any numbers and wiring sockets . Some questions are faults same with both switch packs you got or slight differences in faults . Who refurbed the motor and what extent work done to it . The motors generally fail to water ingress and worthwhile repair is not viable route generally when cheap and easy get used (keep reading) The passenger rear motor is exactly same as driver front (besides drain port plug clocked position needs changing) so could be used for diagnosis in a pinch . Used rear motors make best replacement as genuine quality and rear don't suffer water ingress as clocked with motor housing upwards, also rear motors generally get lot less use cycles .... You in Newport that the home town of the once great MOLE & SON factory ...

Lol that is complete garbage . Ride height was purely simple hydraulics within original struts. no structure fitted or removed that interferes with physical fitting and the tow bar mounts to chassis not suspension . It looks like the pf jones company are listing 10 of them on eBay !? Wouldn't be giving them any business though 🙂 Hunt online for kit and job jobbed, the Forester is easy one for tow hitch fitting ... If you have any good breaker yards around you might be worth a call/visit as any 02 to llate 07 forester tow bar would be good and it be cheapest way if stumble on a fairly clean one .