Mr B

If they done something to external range selection lever it should be pretty simple fix ... If you unlucky it be internal fault and a possible fault from when you bought it !

Clutches on these are super easy, main issue is most normal garages only use to euro garbage so got little experience thus you the owner suffer as they learning on your dime . Unfortunately as you never tested range before it may have internal issue but it not that common to Hopefully it selector arm/lever or something blocking its full travel to high position . Generally on these we pull engine do the clutch as quicker/easier . I'm guessing they pulled the gearbox 🙂

You should be able change range on the fly easily on these as got syncro . My first guess would be high low selector arm possibly bent/fitted wrong ar something blocking it's full travel to high position . If they pulled transmission (rather than pulling engine) do clutch then they would of messed with this . Shouldn't get too much clutch smell, if clutch feel odd or smell persists don't ignore it . When driving do all other gears select okay (including reverse ?)

Buy all season tyres wisely, they vary massively in capability . asking a tyre be good in all conditions is asking for best designs, best materials, best testing and user feedback when you making selection choices . Modern diesels tend write off any mpg savings eventually due to dpf/egr/injection system repairs, other issue is diesel mpg not that amazing as dpf is a brick wall between next level mpg figures . collecting soot and then burning fuel in exhaust to spit it out on highway at cost of fuel consumption, reduced oil life, reduced reliability, reduced vehicle lifespan is not great besides for emptying money from owners pockets one way or the other. CVT another area of potential high expense . If you want true low running costs go back 15-20 years when vehicles made massively better and didn't fill skips with emission equipment parts that kill your bank balance .

97 to 2005 all same master cylinder. Impreza G11 00 to 2005 and also the legacy B12 Is shipping reliable to Kenya ? if you struggling source one we could probably ship used or new from UK .

What exact year/model is your forester ? Germany online car parts has a good selection of new master cylinders and ships most countries Maybe even get something sent out from UK Subaru repair kit 26471AC022 covers lot of models from 97 to 2007 . Quality complete new or good used tends be best way go .

Bridgestone are not particularly good tyres, they always been known for cracking . Duellers are not great and shame Subaru never fully moved to better factory supply tyre choices . Tyre flexing is what helps keep it supple as releases oils throughout the rubber so possibly less than ideal stationary conditions caused the extra rapid onset of cracking . Most times I'm doing tyres for MOT's as badly perished they always got 4mm+ tread but dry rotting and when it visually bad on the sidewall it very wise not mess about taking chances and buy new and better . Nothing annoys me more than people who think they need awd vehicle yet happy to run on garbage tyres lol

Ideally you going want wiring harness and connector diagrams for your model. The wiring is in harness sections such as bulkhead harness and rear harness . If you done continuity check I assume you know pinouts and wiring colours for abs module. Have you actually checked output voltage back probing right at the abs module plug ? Rear harness likely easiest find a harness connection point to test as can follow entry point into vehicle and you will know wiring colour to find the connector pin . Once you done a test here it will dictate direction you need go, if got output power concentrate on very rear harness, if no power need focus on wiring run towards the abs module . Good wiring diagrams and connector location and pinouts become a must if got go deep into it and that subscription services or factory manuals .

In this scenario we generally confirm voltage output right at the source connector prior to testing circuit so we verify module outputting value and test equipment functional . Don't go unplugging things or yanking too much stuff about to start with or you could temporary fix the issue . Once we confirmed a correct output or in your case you confirmed an open in the output wire we would visually trace and inspect that wiring looking for likely issue points where it might flex, rub, be exposed to heat/moisture or goes into another connector and perhaps have corrosion/poor contact . If you find a connector you can back probe and see if getting voltage and you eliminate that part of wiring and gradually narrow it down to shorter wiring run for closer examination . Lot of times you will have visual clues to likely trouble spot, Perhaps even work done in a specific area recently that may of damaged a harness/connector ! . Ideally you may want wiring diagram and connectors location diagram for easier inspection and testing if don't find anything on what can visually trace on that wire run. . Start at easiest test points and verify output voltage from module and meter reading correctly prior to testing . Another thing always consider on this type of issue is some modern systems will switch off output on a circuit that got active code and fully clearing code or reset procedure maybe needed, if your open circuit test valid then obviously not your case but something always be mindful of on modern systems .

If you don't need it road legal you can find them 500 to 1K . I used a 1986 Justy for years running around my land, bought it for £50 lol . Quads and specialist utility vehicles are stupid money for what you actually get, same scenario as lawn tractors . Is a few interesting SF Foresters around if keep looking for them, if you would accept an Auto transmission then quite a few more likely proper clean ones can be found. Just be proper diligent on rust inspection . Facebook marketplace and gumtree been best places find the good stuff for me .

If the code doesn't clear and come right back without vehicle moving it indeed likely wiring or new sensor creating a bias voltage that out of spec to the code criteria limits , but do realise it could still be issue with the signal return line at any point or even computer itself (uncommon but possible) . This where reading live data via scan tool or visual representation on the sensor output wiring with a scope becomes advantageous . Not uncommon have issues with aftermarket sensors and as the Blueprint ones are close to 10th the price of oem you know they ain't high quality, Blueprint japan sourced likely been 60 to 100 but they would work well . Biggest issue we have in trade these days is sourcing quality parts and getting customers understand we not fleecing them by using oem or higher priced specific brand aftermarket . Lot of what was reputable aftermarket brands have turned to lower quality sourcing and lot of motor factors only stock garbage brands these days, ECP being one of the worst lol . Fact customers can find parts (garbage with a fancy sticker or in a fancy box) on eBay or Amazon for price of a takeaway makes it even harder at times lol .

blueprint use to be quite good but it now under the febi bilstein group and lot of parts tend be same EU sourced parts (garbage) as these brands rather than better Japan oem manufacturers it was before . I would try likes of ICP and amayama for oem part . other brands for abs sensor would be Bosch or ABS . Checking voltage to sensor would be good, your easiest test methods are either using old sensor with repaired harness or with some cable and t-pins make some extensions to connect left sensor to right and right to left and see if code swaps to right, if it does then it certainly sensor assembly related . Without decent speed live data scanner and a basic scope diagnosis can be a more limited process . You can get a pretty good scope platform for under £50 these days (HScope is amazing low entry tool for automotive diag work),

What brand replacement sensor ? what scan tools, scope tools you got to help diagnose ? you could temporarily repair cable on old sensor and refit to see if code clears which would indicate new sensor faulty/giving out of spec bias voltage . Not uncommon have fault lights remain on with lot of the more low quality brand sensor parts, If we not fussy on brands we use we would have over 50% that still flag fault code or create operation faults due to out of spec signal data . Never overlook new part issues especially on electrical sensors as most brands these days are garbage .

Above post highlights what needs be done and that is diagnose the source of overheating . H6 is not a common one for HG failure and it impossible to make best decisions on how improve situation until you pin down what actually root cause . Don't guess, test . Is easy and cheap test with gas analyser with rad cap removed and from expansion tank, sounds like you can induce overheating so testing during overheating should be pretty easy achieve .

Light contact with rubber seems fine but in terms of lubing slide pins the silicone grease is about best choice in my opinion . I know Granville don't recommend the ceramic grease in caliper slides , I've always used silicone grease . I know a lot of people and mechanics that use ceramic greases or worse on slides without much bother but it not ideal for constant rubber contact and slide pins that slide through rubber all in one bush-&-sealing boots could have reduced life/problems from using it . What the ceramic grease works well at is under pad clips and on ears and piston lip of calliper to pad contact points. The ceramic grease is also good antiseaze to use on likes of glowplugs and exhaust components . Basically if you got the ceramic grease, silicone grease and red rubber grease you got ability handle most more specialist automotive lube scenarios from brakes, exhaust, fuel system and even electrical parts/plugs etc to a competent standard.

Pretty much all we use these days, ceramic brake greases tend get recommended by lot of brake manufacturers these days, not to say the old standards don't work but the specialist greases more versatile within brake use and less messy and from professional stand point more compliant in event of any legal matters . Not saying Granville is best one on market but it easily available in UK to all and at sensible cost, plus it a British company which nice to support when can ...

Find the fault that killing the packs or stop using aftermarket ebay garbage coil packs, OEM coil packs last decades and not a regular known fault item .

brake grease ... https://granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=775

While the right ratio diff will fit from differing model I would make effort source a used XT diff as plenty XT models getting broken and from parts reference the diff part number shows only used in forester so it likely had some minor design differences . You likely find a rear diff on ebay for anything from 80 to 180 quid if keep an eye out for something likely be decent order . they pretty easy swap out, do be sure it diff not wheel bearings or mix of poorly matched tyres. subaru awd likes matching tyres in brand/model and wear, bad tyres = noises and eventually viscous diff faults . Never understand why people want a awd yet will run **** tyres on them ! 🙂

Yeah, cleaning and proper lubing, slide hardware, pad fitment along with decent quality brand part selection is keys to making massive difference and long lasting no come back job . We tend only use Blueprint, textar and apec for standard road car brakes, lot of cheaper end stuff or brands owned by scumbag autofactors like ECP can hinder fitment or give issues in use . A nice brake job is a bit more effort but well worth it ...

^ The older Foresters SF 97-2002 and SG early models 2003-2006 are way better working vehicles. I got 2 SF foresters, both 22 years old and they no bother or expense, Have a 19 year old SG and while okay the SF is clearly far better built . Same era Outbacks very good too, late 90's to early 2000's was some of best built cars ever and the value is great as they can last decades . Suspension bushes/parts pretty cheap on Subaru but you do go through them fast on likes of SH onward model Foresters, the redesigned suspension was no good for durability and parts spec is always declining partly under the disguise of environment and partly penny pinching . New unfortunately is not better, not just subaru or cars, most products are massive change in material quality and design, most diesel subarus already scrapped or had some HUGE repair bills that really alter owners lifestyle, the hybrid vehicles much the same, highly unreliable and all they good at is costing consumers money and creating more waste parts/consumables to try keep the junk working, almost seems engineered to milk your bank account and end up total loss scrap ! Quite simply if you want a good proper built car and low amount of repairs buy a proper tidy older one, newer across all brands is garbage . Is a fair few older lower mileage likely clean SF Foresters kicking around for 1K to 2K range, I picked up a manual one (hard find proper clean manual models) couple months ago as spare winter car for wife & mother, easy drive & super reliable . Want replace the SG with nice clean SF when stumble on right one. All the best for 2022 .

check power and grounds. is anything showing signs of life such as interior lights or clock or hazard lights ? year and spec of outback may help get more targeted suggestions .

while the bearing is pretty easy remove either with hydraulic press or forcing screw and bearing disc and cup sets getting to that stage can be difficult on older cars due to corrosion of brake fittings and suspension bolts. The long lateral bolt that goes through hub and outer lateral links is good example of potential grief as they can get really bad (new oem bolt and bush kit is very cheap though). If your car is pretty rust free or had recent suspension work it likely pretty straight forward, the bearing removal/fitting kits using forcing screw means you can keep hub on the car and save time/money by not needing fully remove hub . It one of those jobs that pretty easy with good range of equipment and has potential be a complete struggle without .

genuine gasket sets are around 35-40 each head . You can get good aftermarket japan gasket sets (STONE for example or perhaps ADL BluePrint) for about half that cost if trying keep final bill sensible . I would allow around 3 to 4 hours labour for a considerate and worthwhile job to be done. Garages who not worked on them before best avoided .

I would not like say what would cost without seeing it but subframe and most rear arms all oem new fitted not going be cheap. Bushes and bolts even in bolt kits all adds up on the bill (although subaru oem bolts and bushes can be sourced at pretty sensible pricing), if rear pretty rusty what the brake lines and exhaust like ? problems with handbrake cable and speed sensor brackets on particularly rusted vehicles can be additional hassle/expense during removal/refitting . You going want 4 wheel alignment at end of replacement work and proper effort rather than a quick-fit toe and go is another chunk of change to the final tally . I'm going guess it likely looks worse than truly is . If you get lucky with proper tidy used subframe complete with arms it will work out very cheap .