Mr B

they both shouldered same, 1 is long thread other is short thread. other types are shouldered and no shoulder. Is critical buy exact match to original when fittings going into original spec parts . I've seen a few horrid repairs with wrong fittings catching by couple threads at most and risking peoples lives, some of those jobs done in licenced garages which even worse ...

last ones i got was via ebay and usa, had 5 of them which worked out around 45 each but that before 2021 import duty crackdown . around 70 at moment . US ones are quite nice as Forester branded rather than Subaru which nice touch . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143740937280 they hard find these days and most dealers not able source or priced silly (over 100) is a german or polish company that do stainless ones but you get hit on higher shipping and duty on those now too ...

Yes, if you look at your used assembly for reference you see motor attached by three #3 JIC cross head machine screws . Undo those with care and tips from main post and job jobbed in no time . Take care with the door trim card and the moisture sheet and butyl adhesive . some people make a pigs ear of it and looks like a wild bear or hypo child has vandalised it ... I would of advised against getting used drivers as they likely well used and have some water ingress in motor, back door motors or earlier cast alloy motors are best used buy . the early cast alloy motors with bolt flange pressed steel cover seem faultless, we hardly ever touch them, most 25 year old vehicles have originals and seem likely good for 30 years plus . switches are way more durable on early models too . Well quite a lot was better and it really shows up when compare the parts and compare common jobs we do across model generations . Quite simply the newer the car gets the more trips it makes to the garage and the owners credit card needs a better limit 🙂

Perhaps look and see if the black button top part with the silver trim can be unclipped and fitted to original switch assembly . Button top locates on 2 plastic lugs and older style ones could be removed fairly easily .

Yes it seems normal for the US version to have auto mode for both fronts . The extra auto mode should not really be an issue as that internal difference to the switch . socket fitting is a good thing, is the pin position and number of pins same between the US and your switch . If pin position and count exactly same it is indeed just a case of change some wires around in the plug on the wiring harness in the door . What the part number of your original switch unit ? From what I seen of JDM and RHD models from Thailand Singapore, Malaysia, Australia and UK they normally same or interchangeable parts . USA not so much as LHD, different vehicle lighting regulations, emission regulations and a lot of parts specific and made more regional . I will look on my online service manuals for RHD wiring diagram maybe Monday if open up shop (Easter holidays here) The Subaru wiring diagrams are quite poor but hopefully you have right idea & it be easy alteration of wiring position get it working .

Is this the drivers main control panel switches ? US version quite different as LHD and 2017 has different connection sockets as well I suspect ! . Does the US version you purchased have auto mode for both front windows or just drivers window And your original switch, is that auto mode for just drivers window same as european RHD . image below of euro RHD Drivers switch panel If your original switch same button layout and wiring sockets same layout and pin count I may have wiring diagram but suspect it be easier and maybe cheaper long term source correct RHD switch panel .

worse case is nasty court hearing and fine and car in a crusher . Done right it hard for MOT inspector know but MOT test changes are likely in emission equipment unfortunately DPF and EGR systems are such a poor concept huge amount have bypassed them and that made a lot of companies unhappy, they want your money, no real care about pollution that just an excuse to sell lesser quality and engineer systems that cost you more money maintain and more garbage for landfill . About time consumers got wise and stopped buying new junk ...

old is gold. you far better off in terms of durability & reliability with older models . dealer warranties never a sure thing as only as useful as their technical diligence and willingness to do the right thing and if you don't have recommendations or have experience with the dealer you won't know what support you likely get (and they be charging you plenty for it in the price). I would never recommend buying anything from dealers without test drive and at least 2 decent thorough inspections . Also if you have not viewed a few of them you really won't have a clue on a good one or bad one as you learn the more you look at . One of reasons we had more work during covid is owners been keeping vehicles rather than changing, you been best waiting for restrictions lift which to be honest is only weeks away .

What year outback ? Do you have 4 digit pin code for alarm ?

If you wedge a cut down bottle or funnel on end of handle it amplifies the sounds much cleaner and don't need poke it in your ear . Rod knock pretty easy recognise once heard a few, tends be most audible if rev to 2k and quickly lift off . Very minimal rod knock can be hard concluded 100% .

Don't get me started on DPF's Absolute madness, storing soot in a can to spit it out on the highway and using immense amount of fuel and complex systems to achieve it . DPF cost 10 to 15% in possible mpg figures and if engineering had been targeted at fuelling use you looking at 20%+ reduction on diesel mpg . Engine oil and filter changes are more frequent due to regen cycle causing diesel in engine oil . (more toxic waste and financial waste) The systems also consume huge amount of parts in dpf and egr system and harmful chemicals trying clean them to keep operational . The end result is they creating more pollution rather than less . What they are very good at is costing you money, a lot of money ...

Very old cars yes but go back 30 years and you had cars that consume power when locked stationary . Some would pull around 5 to 20mA which not a big deal, others with more modules, alarms be pulling 15 to 25mA which also acceptable. Lot of most modern can be 25 to 55mA and more than that if has wake up checks . Seems to me most vehicle engineers overlooked need for minimal standby battery drawer and have no criteria on a realistic set standby timespan that the battery can endure . I got no idea why many of these modern cars have so much parked current drawer and module activity besides poor engineering and they don't even make any secondary built in trickle charge unit like a solar strip built in sunroof or rear window/spoiler which could improve battery life at a minimum . Unfortunately modern engineering is all about !Removed! you out of your money as cheaply as they possibly can make it .

^ Most of the issue is it takes too much when parked up locked, for sure your sort of usage not ideal but generally starting doesn't take excessive amounts unless extended crank times and with car running you won't be using charge out of battery Your driving scenario highlights faults more quickly but it underlying engineering flaws that mainly to blame as even in more ideal driving scenario early battery fatigue and occasional flat battery is happening unfortunately . E Boxer is bad for it and no reason for it to be when have a secondary battery system that can add charge to the 12v and parked sleep mode should have less module activity, it quite simply design/software incompetence. Having to keep a jump start pack or constantly trickle charging a new £25K+ vehicle is not good or normal lol & it very bad environmentally through short lifespan and amount of extra equipment parts service chemicals and wasted electric time petrol running about in an effort keep this eco miracle working ! 😕 .

It quite simply batteries suffering early failure due to fact standard high parked/locked current drawer fatigues the battery rapidly from too much low charged state . Obviously some user usage highlights the issue faster but when you can't leave your vehicle for 14 days at airport car park without needing keep a jump pack on standby and keep replacing batteries at a financial cost to someone and an environmental cost to us all 😞 From what I seen I would assume some module software changes could help ! Far too much current drawer and far too many effected and not just a Subaru brand issue. Going be fun dealing with this as an independent garage over next 3 to 6 years when we get see a lot more of them. Be a bit like the diesel where they sit in our yard until salvage truck turns up as owners lost interest and money and we can't provide a worthwhile fix .

older is better, 2004/2005, slightly better vehicle tax, slightly simpler emission equipment and little better built (SF was best build quality by a long shot), . Look for rust rear turrets, inner arch, rear subframe, rear inner sills and front c frame . And I mean really look for it, can look fine but need be touched and tap tested. Rear SLS suspension fails too but that pretty easy fix. Engines and transmisions ned extra thorough check make sure not been spanked to death and not been run on a shoestring budget . Crash damage always worth closer look on performance models (panel gaps and bumper/light fitment always a huge quick clue) Generally they hold up pretty good, probably easier find tidy Auto ones over manual but if you willy travel a little should find something proper tidy . They not mega desirable due to running costs but they very practical fast road car that can do a bit of everything . We found several nice tidy XT Foresters over the years, tend get less abused than X models and even proper tidy examples don't sell as quick as all weather non turbo models . .

exhaust back pressure control valve .

I'd go original NGK iridium and close the gap by about 0.15mm As for torque 25Nm be sensible, most of torque relates to crushing the sealing washer so I take NGK remarks over subaru .

We get a lot of early to late 2K Outbacks in and they generally not bad for corrosion unless use and location more severe . I never seen many low mileage cars that generally that good as parked up does them no good unless in dry garage and short trips and B roads takes bigger toll than 4 times mileage on long runs and motorways . Same with FSH and 1 owner, 2 or 3 owners tends mean fresh start and bit more money thrown at them and if seen 2 or 3 garages one of them may of been extra diligent and done good work, Dealers are useless on older cars generally as they too use to easy work and cutting corners on newer vehicles and charges so high lot of jobs don't get authorised by owners . If you particularly like the car an option could be find another free from rust and with lpg, perhaps swap interior and anything better from yours (about weakest point on these can be seats real scruffy) . If rust on your current one mainly subframe and suspension arms then it could be resolved fairly easily but cost of lpg install hard justify . They not that desirable and don't sell as fast as foresters do so plenty decent ones can be found at negotiable prices if willing travel a little and have some time wait out a decent example .

failing spark is why light flashes. Either don't like your plugs or they or coil pack faulty. Never assume new/replacement parts are not faulty . Only plugs we use are Denso or NGK .

Flashing engine light is misfire warning, either used coil pack/packs faulty and improves with some heat or similar issue with new plugs . LPG requires far better spark than petrol thus any weakness shows up worse with LPG . Would need know LPG system installed to know whether designed run from cold start or not, would assume is as most that can't auto run from petrol until receive suitable temp value point to allow LPG switching .

Assume you mean 23331 That crosses with Subaru 20330-SA220 you'll probably find first supplied part number not correct for the vehicle .

should be about £70-£80 a pair (always fit in a pair, best practise) Super easy fit, no more than an hour charge swap couple front springs . eBay will have them as will online parts stores or try a local decent motorfactors ....

20330SA100, 20330SA160, 20330SA180, 20330SA190 are all interchange look for Kilen 23330

Yes. When relays sticking it will do that . Alarm module relays fairly common problem and I done loads of them over the years . You really want do some testing such as looking at live data see security status of transponder key, park position and ignition . another quick test for alarm is with ignition turned off arm and disarm alarm and see if starts & repeat several times if doesn't, can also try tapping alarm module or open it up and tap relays then check starts . Alarm module super simple repair or replace and good used can be had fairly cheap and is totally diy possible and only an hour to a garage that knows what they doing .

Really depends on what parts used last time, if OEM japan parts then just inspect and replace anything out of spec (which unlikely at 40K) If aftermarket stuff then good chance all best replaced . I only use mainland Japan OEM idlers/tensioner, water pumps we use are ADL Aisin or Genuine, anything else probably more likely fail than an old original . For belts I like Dayco, Aisin or Genuine . Not big fan of Gates kits, lot of the parts poor quality . ICP good source for OEM idlers/tensioner at sensible money ...