Mr B

Not a shock I recall dealing with, looks about right length in images . Do you know the springs you got . SLS springs have roughly 12.5mm thick coils , light duty springs 13.5mm and the RA6028 are 14.5mm rust and coatings differ measures fractionally but if you measure under 13mm you can be pretty sure it sls springs and if under 14mm light duty springs and benefit from RA6028 . Lot of the cheap and even known brand springs are not great spec and can be slightly short or lose height in couple weeks of use . Only ones we genererally use are KYB springcoil custom springs or oem and perhaps kilen suplex when needs must .

^ Sounds like a plan I have seen some of the cheap off brand eBay struts turn out short as the spring perch sits lower than should . most of the time it down to people using the wrong springs (new SLS springs as if part match via vehicle reg/vin that what computer show correct part) or reusing the old SLS springs . If you like saving money do not buy any cheap brand suspension parts because they are all garbage either in fitment/spec or durability .

20% off the KYB struts via carpartsinmotion on eBay until May 7 (PRICEWINS) bargain at £46 for made in japan part . I'll be making most of it put some common decent preferred quality parts in stock and maybe a few carlyle tools .

Get the Japan made kyb excel G shocks and the matching non sls RA6028 springs and you done proper for under £200 . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323874493110?epid=248894226&hash=item4b686c92b6:g:XXsAAOSw0eNdQ~n5 If you used original springs that why it still sags and if replacement springs sls spec then it still sags. Hard beat KYB and the shocks and springs as listed in this thread are proper non SLS spec that give ride height in service spec range . What shocks did you use ? is likely just the RA6028 springs on shocks you got will give correct height . Pedders are decent enough but they overpriced and companies are milking fact most people clueless and assume it hard get other normal options which isn't the case .

^ standard model arms are the same length and part numbers , I done a few forester impreza and legacy and lateral links cross between lot of them . best way see what same is look it up in the subaru parts list as it shows all other models that use the part . Later lateral links with ball joint drop links differ and wide track differs .

Forester SF rear lateral arms are same parts that can be found on G10 G11 body code impreza and B11 legacy, no length difference .

They bit spendy, price back in day out of extras brochure was £120 . Is one of those things that should of been on vehicle from factory . You may get lucky and find used one although normally not in good shape and adhesive tape is strong so generally damaged a bit in removal . You may find some of the universal rubber bumper protectors do you but the oem one is proper nice so worth keep looking as may find a better price if keep looking .

Yes, short shoulder is basically not correct description. you basically got 2 types shouldered or non shouldered and both types available in long or short thread lengths . Exact match and good quality is a must on fittings, pipe and tooling . I don't like copper pipe , copper/nickel is a better product and all i will use. lot of garages still use copper line but mainly as super easy/forgiving bend flare but it not long term durable and does work harden/crack .

they both shouldered same, 1 is long thread other is short thread. other types are shouldered and no shoulder. Is critical buy exact match to original when fittings going into original spec parts . I've seen a few horrid repairs with wrong fittings catching by couple threads at most and risking peoples lives, some of those jobs done in licenced garages which even worse ...

last ones i got was via ebay and usa, had 5 of them which worked out around 45 each but that before 2021 import duty crackdown . around 70 at moment . US ones are quite nice as Forester branded rather than Subaru which nice touch . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143740937280 they hard find these days and most dealers not able source or priced silly (over 100) is a german or polish company that do stainless ones but you get hit on higher shipping and duty on those now too ...

Yes, if you look at your used assembly for reference you see motor attached by three #3 JIC cross head machine screws . Undo those with care and tips from main post and job jobbed in no time . Take care with the door trim card and the moisture sheet and butyl adhesive . some people make a pigs ear of it and looks like a wild bear or hypo child has vandalised it ... I would of advised against getting used drivers as they likely well used and have some water ingress in motor, back door motors or earlier cast alloy motors are best used buy . the early cast alloy motors with bolt flange pressed steel cover seem faultless, we hardly ever touch them, most 25 year old vehicles have originals and seem likely good for 30 years plus . switches are way more durable on early models too . Well quite a lot was better and it really shows up when compare the parts and compare common jobs we do across model generations . Quite simply the newer the car gets the more trips it makes to the garage and the owners credit card needs a better limit 🙂

Perhaps look and see if the black button top part with the silver trim can be unclipped and fitted to original switch assembly . Button top locates on 2 plastic lugs and older style ones could be removed fairly easily .

Yes it seems normal for the US version to have auto mode for both fronts . The extra auto mode should not really be an issue as that internal difference to the switch . socket fitting is a good thing, is the pin position and number of pins same between the US and your switch . If pin position and count exactly same it is indeed just a case of change some wires around in the plug on the wiring harness in the door . What the part number of your original switch unit ? From what I seen of JDM and RHD models from Thailand Singapore, Malaysia, Australia and UK they normally same or interchangeable parts . USA not so much as LHD, different vehicle lighting regulations, emission regulations and a lot of parts specific and made more regional . I will look on my online service manuals for RHD wiring diagram maybe Monday if open up shop (Easter holidays here) The Subaru wiring diagrams are quite poor but hopefully you have right idea & it be easy alteration of wiring position get it working .

Is this the drivers main control panel switches ? US version quite different as LHD and 2017 has different connection sockets as well I suspect ! . Does the US version you purchased have auto mode for both front windows or just drivers window And your original switch, is that auto mode for just drivers window same as european RHD . image below of euro RHD Drivers switch panel If your original switch same button layout and wiring sockets same layout and pin count I may have wiring diagram but suspect it be easier and maybe cheaper long term source correct RHD switch panel .

worse case is nasty court hearing and fine and car in a crusher . Done right it hard for MOT inspector know but MOT test changes are likely in emission equipment unfortunately DPF and EGR systems are such a poor concept huge amount have bypassed them and that made a lot of companies unhappy, they want your money, no real care about pollution that just an excuse to sell lesser quality and engineer systems that cost you more money maintain and more garbage for landfill . About time consumers got wise and stopped buying new junk ...

old is gold. you far better off in terms of durability & reliability with older models . dealer warranties never a sure thing as only as useful as their technical diligence and willingness to do the right thing and if you don't have recommendations or have experience with the dealer you won't know what support you likely get (and they be charging you plenty for it in the price). I would never recommend buying anything from dealers without test drive and at least 2 decent thorough inspections . Also if you have not viewed a few of them you really won't have a clue on a good one or bad one as you learn the more you look at . One of reasons we had more work during covid is owners been keeping vehicles rather than changing, you been best waiting for restrictions lift which to be honest is only weeks away .

What year outback ? Do you have 4 digit pin code for alarm ?

If you wedge a cut down bottle or funnel on end of handle it amplifies the sounds much cleaner and don't need poke it in your ear . Rod knock pretty easy recognise once heard a few, tends be most audible if rev to 2k and quickly lift off . Very minimal rod knock can be hard concluded 100% .

Don't get me started on DPF's Absolute madness, storing soot in a can to spit it out on the highway and using immense amount of fuel and complex systems to achieve it . DPF cost 10 to 15% in possible mpg figures and if engineering had been targeted at fuelling use you looking at 20%+ reduction on diesel mpg . Engine oil and filter changes are more frequent due to regen cycle causing diesel in engine oil . (more toxic waste and financial waste) The systems also consume huge amount of parts in dpf and egr system and harmful chemicals trying clean them to keep operational . The end result is they creating more pollution rather than less . What they are very good at is costing you money, a lot of money ...

Very old cars yes but go back 30 years and you had cars that consume power when locked stationary . Some would pull around 5 to 20mA which not a big deal, others with more modules, alarms be pulling 15 to 25mA which also acceptable. Lot of most modern can be 25 to 55mA and more than that if has wake up checks . Seems to me most vehicle engineers overlooked need for minimal standby battery drawer and have no criteria on a realistic set standby timespan that the battery can endure . I got no idea why many of these modern cars have so much parked current drawer and module activity besides poor engineering and they don't even make any secondary built in trickle charge unit like a solar strip built in sunroof or rear window/spoiler which could improve battery life at a minimum . Unfortunately modern engineering is all about !Removed! you out of your money as cheaply as they possibly can make it .

^ Most of the issue is it takes too much when parked up locked, for sure your sort of usage not ideal but generally starting doesn't take excessive amounts unless extended crank times and with car running you won't be using charge out of battery Your driving scenario highlights faults more quickly but it underlying engineering flaws that mainly to blame as even in more ideal driving scenario early battery fatigue and occasional flat battery is happening unfortunately . E Boxer is bad for it and no reason for it to be when have a secondary battery system that can add charge to the 12v and parked sleep mode should have less module activity, it quite simply design/software incompetence. Having to keep a jump start pack or constantly trickle charging a new £25K+ vehicle is not good or normal lol & it very bad environmentally through short lifespan and amount of extra equipment parts service chemicals and wasted electric time petrol running about in an effort keep this eco miracle working ! 😕 .

It quite simply batteries suffering early failure due to fact standard high parked/locked current drawer fatigues the battery rapidly from too much low charged state . Obviously some user usage highlights the issue faster but when you can't leave your vehicle for 14 days at airport car park without needing keep a jump pack on standby and keep replacing batteries at a financial cost to someone and an environmental cost to us all 😞 From what I seen I would assume some module software changes could help ! Far too much current drawer and far too many effected and not just a Subaru brand issue. Going be fun dealing with this as an independent garage over next 3 to 6 years when we get see a lot more of them. Be a bit like the diesel where they sit in our yard until salvage truck turns up as owners lost interest and money and we can't provide a worthwhile fix .

older is better, 2004/2005, slightly better vehicle tax, slightly simpler emission equipment and little better built (SF was best build quality by a long shot), . Look for rust rear turrets, inner arch, rear subframe, rear inner sills and front c frame . And I mean really look for it, can look fine but need be touched and tap tested. Rear SLS suspension fails too but that pretty easy fix. Engines and transmisions ned extra thorough check make sure not been spanked to death and not been run on a shoestring budget . Crash damage always worth closer look on performance models (panel gaps and bumper/light fitment always a huge quick clue) Generally they hold up pretty good, probably easier find tidy Auto ones over manual but if you willy travel a little should find something proper tidy . They not mega desirable due to running costs but they very practical fast road car that can do a bit of everything . We found several nice tidy XT Foresters over the years, tend get less abused than X models and even proper tidy examples don't sell as quick as all weather non turbo models . .

exhaust back pressure control valve .

I'd go original NGK iridium and close the gap by about 0.15mm As for torque 25Nm be sensible, most of torque relates to crushing the sealing washer so I take NGK remarks over subaru .