Mr B

Don't get me started on DPF's Absolute madness, storing soot in a can to spit it out on the highway and using immense amount of fuel and complex systems to achieve it . DPF cost 10 to 15% in possible mpg figures and if engineering had been targeted at fuelling use you looking at 20%+ reduction on diesel mpg . Engine oil and filter changes are more frequent due to regen cycle causing diesel in engine oil . (more toxic waste and financial waste) The systems also consume huge amount of parts in dpf and egr system and harmful chemicals trying clean them to keep operational . The end result is they creating more pollution rather than less . What they are very good at is costing you money, a lot of money ...

Very old cars yes but go back 30 years and you had cars that consume power when locked stationary . Some would pull around 5 to 20mA which not a big deal, others with more modules, alarms be pulling 15 to 25mA which also acceptable. Lot of most modern can be 25 to 55mA and more than that if has wake up checks . Seems to me most vehicle engineers overlooked need for minimal standby battery drawer and have no criteria on a realistic set standby timespan that the battery can endure . I got no idea why many of these modern cars have so much parked current drawer and module activity besides poor engineering and they don't even make any secondary built in trickle charge unit like a solar strip built in sunroof or rear window/spoiler which could improve battery life at a minimum . Unfortunately modern engineering is all about !Removed! you out of your money as cheaply as they possibly can make it .

^ Most of the issue is it takes too much when parked up locked, for sure your sort of usage not ideal but generally starting doesn't take excessive amounts unless extended crank times and with car running you won't be using charge out of battery Your driving scenario highlights faults more quickly but it underlying engineering flaws that mainly to blame as even in more ideal driving scenario early battery fatigue and occasional flat battery is happening unfortunately . E Boxer is bad for it and no reason for it to be when have a secondary battery system that can add charge to the 12v and parked sleep mode should have less module activity, it quite simply design/software incompetence. Having to keep a jump start pack or constantly trickle charging a new £25K+ vehicle is not good or normal lol & it very bad environmentally through short lifespan and amount of extra equipment parts service chemicals and wasted electric time petrol running about in an effort keep this eco miracle working ! 😕 .

It quite simply batteries suffering early failure due to fact standard high parked/locked current drawer fatigues the battery rapidly from too much low charged state . Obviously some user usage highlights the issue faster but when you can't leave your vehicle for 14 days at airport car park without needing keep a jump pack on standby and keep replacing batteries at a financial cost to someone and an environmental cost to us all 😞 From what I seen I would assume some module software changes could help ! Far too much current drawer and far too many effected and not just a Subaru brand issue. Going be fun dealing with this as an independent garage over next 3 to 6 years when we get see a lot more of them. Be a bit like the diesel where they sit in our yard until salvage truck turns up as owners lost interest and money and we can't provide a worthwhile fix .

older is better, 2004/2005, slightly better vehicle tax, slightly simpler emission equipment and little better built (SF was best build quality by a long shot), . Look for rust rear turrets, inner arch, rear subframe, rear inner sills and front c frame . And I mean really look for it, can look fine but need be touched and tap tested. Rear SLS suspension fails too but that pretty easy fix. Engines and transmisions ned extra thorough check make sure not been spanked to death and not been run on a shoestring budget . Crash damage always worth closer look on performance models (panel gaps and bumper/light fitment always a huge quick clue) Generally they hold up pretty good, probably easier find tidy Auto ones over manual but if you willy travel a little should find something proper tidy . They not mega desirable due to running costs but they very practical fast road car that can do a bit of everything . We found several nice tidy XT Foresters over the years, tend get less abused than X models and even proper tidy examples don't sell as quick as all weather non turbo models . .

exhaust back pressure control valve .

I'd go original NGK iridium and close the gap by about 0.15mm As for torque 25Nm be sensible, most of torque relates to crushing the sealing washer so I take NGK remarks over subaru .

We get a lot of early to late 2K Outbacks in and they generally not bad for corrosion unless use and location more severe . I never seen many low mileage cars that generally that good as parked up does them no good unless in dry garage and short trips and B roads takes bigger toll than 4 times mileage on long runs and motorways . Same with FSH and 1 owner, 2 or 3 owners tends mean fresh start and bit more money thrown at them and if seen 2 or 3 garages one of them may of been extra diligent and done good work, Dealers are useless on older cars generally as they too use to easy work and cutting corners on newer vehicles and charges so high lot of jobs don't get authorised by owners . If you particularly like the car an option could be find another free from rust and with lpg, perhaps swap interior and anything better from yours (about weakest point on these can be seats real scruffy) . If rust on your current one mainly subframe and suspension arms then it could be resolved fairly easily but cost of lpg install hard justify . They not that desirable and don't sell as fast as foresters do so plenty decent ones can be found at negotiable prices if willing travel a little and have some time wait out a decent example .

failing spark is why light flashes. Either don't like your plugs or they or coil pack faulty. Never assume new/replacement parts are not faulty . Only plugs we use are Denso or NGK .

Flashing engine light is misfire warning, either used coil pack/packs faulty and improves with some heat or similar issue with new plugs . LPG requires far better spark than petrol thus any weakness shows up worse with LPG . Would need know LPG system installed to know whether designed run from cold start or not, would assume is as most that can't auto run from petrol until receive suitable temp value point to allow LPG switching .

Assume you mean 23331 That crosses with Subaru 20330-SA220 you'll probably find first supplied part number not correct for the vehicle .

should be about £70-£80 a pair (always fit in a pair, best practise) Super easy fit, no more than an hour charge swap couple front springs . eBay will have them as will online parts stores or try a local decent motorfactors ....

20330SA100, 20330SA160, 20330SA180, 20330SA190 are all interchange look for Kilen 23330

Yes. When relays sticking it will do that . Alarm module relays fairly common problem and I done loads of them over the years . You really want do some testing such as looking at live data see security status of transponder key, park position and ignition . another quick test for alarm is with ignition turned off arm and disarm alarm and see if starts & repeat several times if doesn't, can also try tapping alarm module or open it up and tap relays then check starts . Alarm module super simple repair or replace and good used can be had fairly cheap and is totally diy possible and only an hour to a garage that knows what they doing .

Really depends on what parts used last time, if OEM japan parts then just inspect and replace anything out of spec (which unlikely at 40K) If aftermarket stuff then good chance all best replaced . I only use mainland Japan OEM idlers/tensioner, water pumps we use are ADL Aisin or Genuine, anything else probably more likely fail than an old original . For belts I like Dayco, Aisin or Genuine . Not big fan of Gates kits, lot of the parts poor quality . ICP good source for OEM idlers/tensioner at sensible money ...

Hard be accurate on basic symptoms given but a good hunch would be sigma alarm module immobiliser relays, relays are soldered in but can be swapped out, If is this the alarm module can also be easily swapped out for a good used one (supplied with a working fob or code so can be programmed)

yes looks to be, could wire light on dash same as oem subaru tow pack but buzzer is less work .

follow loom into boot side trim low level drivers side .

That a shame, generally drivers side easier find as passenger side one that generally gets damaged more often. Is a case of keep looking, also look for listings of whole car as a salvage listing and message the seller . Is a few specialist subaru breakers so could contact them as well . Just be pleased it a easy bolt on panel thus cost can be fairly low and once replaced it can be perfect fix .

eBay is a good option, Search wing and search Forester SG breaking, should be able get a used one already silver factory paint and it fairly easy bolt on job . Garage charge be about 1hr for that . New wing and painting work out expensive .

What I think is it a 1hr garage charge ... Do realise you likely have no usable warranty as expect the warranty terms will require fitting by qualified mechanic . Look at MOOG, should find it around £80 mark You can get genuine for around £150 We have enough issues with warranty at times so don't rely on any warranty too much . Being not too old good chance you find it easy remove, chisels be useful as will so good punches . Plenty penetrating oil applied daily over few days in advance may help . We use an air hammer/riveter which makes quick work of them, one user on here replicated that to some extent with a SDS hammer drill .

I would suggest looking at youtube for xv rear wheel bearing change covering you year model . Video give you far better basic guide . Technically it simple nut and bolt job swap out a complete hub bearing assembly but corrosion can make them difficult slow process without good air tools . Buy a quality bearing assembly preferably japanese, not the lower priced stuff and none of the german sounding brands that actually chinese garbage .

If it 2.0 it won't be an outback it will be a Legacy Estate . On the Outback best engine is the 3.0 without doubt , preferably earlier the better . The 6 cylinders are subarus best . Plenty good examples around and now winter mostly over the prices go low and market for 3 litre auto estates not great, you do find lot of very clean examples about if look hard and can travel couple hundred miles (potentially troublesome times go buying due to covid restrictions)

Buying not very old and from crash salvage it should be fine, I do this for a living and would trust genuine low use oem over new aftermarket. If you see how many faulty aftermarket parts (even top brands) we have had in a month you would faint. For starters, alternators, power steering pumps and aircon pumps used genuine best way go especially when talking about parts only 3 to 5 years old. Pump fitting is quick and easy on these but re-gassing is the cost, shop around for that.

number seems correct. I assume it 4.44, you look for tags on rear diff ?