Mr B

We get a lot of early to late 2K Outbacks in and they generally not bad for corrosion unless use and location more severe . I never seen many low mileage cars that generally that good as parked up does them no good unless in dry garage and short trips and B roads takes bigger toll than 4 times mileage on long runs and motorways . Same with FSH and 1 owner, 2 or 3 owners tends mean fresh start and bit more money thrown at them and if seen 2 or 3 garages one of them may of been extra diligent and done good work, Dealers are useless on older cars generally as they too use to easy work and cutting corners on newer vehicles and charges so high lot of jobs don't get authorised by owners . If you particularly like the car an option could be find another free from rust and with lpg, perhaps swap interior and anything better from yours (about weakest point on these can be seats real scruffy) . If rust on your current one mainly subframe and suspension arms then it could be resolved fairly easily but cost of lpg install hard justify . They not that desirable and don't sell as fast as foresters do so plenty decent ones can be found at negotiable prices if willing travel a little and have some time wait out a decent example .

failing spark is why light flashes. Either don't like your plugs or they or coil pack faulty. Never assume new/replacement parts are not faulty . Only plugs we use are Denso or NGK .

Flashing engine light is misfire warning, either used coil pack/packs faulty and improves with some heat or similar issue with new plugs . LPG requires far better spark than petrol thus any weakness shows up worse with LPG . Would need know LPG system installed to know whether designed run from cold start or not, would assume is as most that can't auto run from petrol until receive suitable temp value point to allow LPG switching .

Assume you mean 23331 That crosses with Subaru 20330-SA220 you'll probably find first supplied part number not correct for the vehicle .

should be about £70-£80 a pair (always fit in a pair, best practise) Super easy fit, no more than an hour charge swap couple front springs . eBay will have them as will online parts stores or try a local decent motorfactors ....

20330SA100, 20330SA160, 20330SA180, 20330SA190 are all interchange look for Kilen 23330

Yes. When relays sticking it will do that . Alarm module relays fairly common problem and I done loads of them over the years . You really want do some testing such as looking at live data see security status of transponder key, park position and ignition . another quick test for alarm is with ignition turned off arm and disarm alarm and see if starts & repeat several times if doesn't, can also try tapping alarm module or open it up and tap relays then check starts . Alarm module super simple repair or replace and good used can be had fairly cheap and is totally diy possible and only an hour to a garage that knows what they doing .

Really depends on what parts used last time, if OEM japan parts then just inspect and replace anything out of spec (which unlikely at 40K) If aftermarket stuff then good chance all best replaced . I only use mainland Japan OEM idlers/tensioner, water pumps we use are ADL Aisin or Genuine, anything else probably more likely fail than an old original . For belts I like Dayco, Aisin or Genuine . Not big fan of Gates kits, lot of the parts poor quality . ICP good source for OEM idlers/tensioner at sensible money ...

Hard be accurate on basic symptoms given but a good hunch would be sigma alarm module immobiliser relays, relays are soldered in but can be swapped out, If is this the alarm module can also be easily swapped out for a good used one (supplied with a working fob or code so can be programmed)

yes looks to be, could wire light on dash same as oem subaru tow pack but buzzer is less work .

follow loom into boot side trim low level drivers side .

That a shame, generally drivers side easier find as passenger side one that generally gets damaged more often. Is a case of keep looking, also look for listings of whole car as a salvage listing and message the seller . Is a few specialist subaru breakers so could contact them as well . Just be pleased it a easy bolt on panel thus cost can be fairly low and once replaced it can be perfect fix .

eBay is a good option, Search wing and search Forester SG breaking, should be able get a used one already silver factory paint and it fairly easy bolt on job . Garage charge be about 1hr for that . New wing and painting work out expensive .

What I think is it a 1hr garage charge ... Do realise you likely have no usable warranty as expect the warranty terms will require fitting by qualified mechanic . Look at MOOG, should find it around £80 mark You can get genuine for around £150 We have enough issues with warranty at times so don't rely on any warranty too much . Being not too old good chance you find it easy remove, chisels be useful as will so good punches . Plenty penetrating oil applied daily over few days in advance may help . We use an air hammer/riveter which makes quick work of them, one user on here replicated that to some extent with a SDS hammer drill .

I would suggest looking at youtube for xv rear wheel bearing change covering you year model . Video give you far better basic guide . Technically it simple nut and bolt job swap out a complete hub bearing assembly but corrosion can make them difficult slow process without good air tools . Buy a quality bearing assembly preferably japanese, not the lower priced stuff and none of the german sounding brands that actually chinese garbage .

If it 2.0 it won't be an outback it will be a Legacy Estate . On the Outback best engine is the 3.0 without doubt , preferably earlier the better . The 6 cylinders are subarus best . Plenty good examples around and now winter mostly over the prices go low and market for 3 litre auto estates not great, you do find lot of very clean examples about if look hard and can travel couple hundred miles (potentially troublesome times go buying due to covid restrictions)

Buying not very old and from crash salvage it should be fine, I do this for a living and would trust genuine low use oem over new aftermarket. If you see how many faulty aftermarket parts (even top brands) we have had in a month you would faint. For starters, alternators, power steering pumps and aircon pumps used genuine best way go especially when talking about parts only 3 to 5 years old. Pump fitting is quick and easy on these but re-gassing is the cost, shop around for that.

number seems correct. I assume it 4.44, you look for tags on rear diff ?

Pick up genuine pump used pulled from crash damage salvage, same pump used on few models such as xv and likely get newer pump such as 2016 or 2018 and half the cost of cheap brands that likely not fit . Just put the subaru part number in eBay .

As above, any modern diesel is not a great product . emission control can be expensive problem and the subaru crank issue is very real and expensive . I've had 3 in my yard his year already and none got repaired, simply owners don't want spend what required and overall condition not good emough and used market got little interest in the diesel thus they next to worthless . Really is no benefit in diesel unless really doing high miles or buy pre dpf vehicles ...

yes, have a look at the vehicle build tags in your engine bay ...

EZ30 EZ36 engine series . EZ30 is great engine, should of been used more especially in north american market instead of the 2.5 and should of been put in a Forester model ...

Water pump best done unless it very low miles (use oem pump only, they about £95), they do tend last 200K with ease but I be changing it unless ultra low mileage where it silly throwing totally serviceable quality parts away . Your problem is if does turn into bigger job the price at dealer get stupid fast and they might not be as flexible at solution paths . At point of engine build you be better off sourcing used engine or donor vehicle for simple swap . (get a lot cheap thanks to subframe corrosion) Hopefully they done some due diligence already such as leak-down test so know what head/cylinders at fault and exactly what leaking and bore scoped effected cylinder/cylinders along with oil and oil pressure checks and engine running audio checks to get some idea it likely easy viable repair . If it low mileage engine and you been good with oil changes and overheating been minimal it good chance be fairly straight forward top end work. For sure you never know 100% until get into it but you don't want end up with a 5K bill . You might be wise pondering options such as looking at used 3.0 outbacks in your area for prices on very clean ones or a mot failure for donor engine, and getting a couple quotes elsewhere just to gauge price variations you got locally. I do agree with you on spending little extra somewhere you got some history and confidence is worthwhile but you also never find the really good independents & specialists unless look .

Is a shame that as EZ is the unstated crown jewel of subaru engines . If the car good example it worth doing as you won't buy better even with 10K in your pocket . I would say you could get better price on work than that, my guideline estimate without seeing it be around 2200+vat which include all parts/fluids and head machine shop costs . LPG can be harsh on valves so they need good inspection and heads need proper checks for straightness and cracks . They not hard to do but quality parts and good working practise are key and preferably mechanics with fair bit of subaru experience as experience saves time and makes better choices on parts and process of the task .

Kits for the sumitomo calipers are quite pricey, hard chrome piston kits under half cost of stainless and stainless kits good 35% more expensive than lot of other caliper stainless piston kits unfortunately . Price for doing it yourself will mount up if need refinish/paint caliper by times include cleaning/prep and refinishing products . If finish still good then general diy strip and rebuild with decent kit is viable and may save money, as soon as needs total finishing you generally always better off using professional services unless want the project and even more so when got recommended services from other owners . Not very often we rebuild calipers as professional refurb route tends be cheaper and includes some warranty/liability advantages. only time we tend do them is if customer very specific on what wants or fast turnaround means we need do it get it out on time and do keep some piston kits on the shelf for fast turnaound and also holding some stock enables some control on better part pricing .