cornish6544

When i got my car it already had a blitz dump valve fitted which doesn't make a bad sound but after a while i found it seized up and wouldn't open so i took it apart and cleaned it but now just a month later its happened again and while it is seized the air seems to come from the air filter instead of the dump valve.

So im most likely going to be buying a new one but which brand? i think its fair to say everyone recommends HKS for sound but which model are people using on classics?

yes the pump was second hand , I'm struggling to locate a new or even reconditioned replacement

yeah I thought thats all it was I've already done this it doesn't make any noise when turning the whining noise occurs when i accelerate the noise will speed up and slow down by how much i put my foot down

Thanks I will look into that. I am hoping its something simple

How would i go about bleeding it? Its a conversion that I've seen on a few classics so it should all work.

Bulldogs- All the hoses seem fine I've had everything off recently doing some painting and cleaning and didn't see any disconnected or damaged. Ive only just seen the common ICV problem then when googled , Do you know of where i would find it on my car as I've tried google and its not much help. Mines a 1994 wrx

Thanks 

Fitted power steering pump from a 2004 wrx on to my classic as i was told it was more reliable everything was working fine however now it seems to whine with the acceleration so if I'm on full boost all you can here is the power steering whine sound.

So a few months ago i posted my problem about rough idle basically when the engine is to temperature the car will randomly rev itself up anywhere between 1000-2000rpm only for a second then drop back down or sometimes even to the point where it sounds like it could stall. At first it didn't bother me much but its getting annoying now nearly every time i stop at lights or in traffic it will do it.

The car has had new coil packs and spark plugs less than a year ago fitted by a garage. I have just had the injectors cleaned and they came back flowing fully at 440cc and I've just fitted a new fuel filter still no luck.

Anyone have any ideas? 

So I need to have my injectors cleaned on my 94 WRX and I've heard good things about carbon cleaning. The engine will idle roughly when up to temperature and struggle to start as my fuel injectors were second hand I think they need cleaning.The service looks like it will cost £89.99 and take 30 minutes does anyone know how effective it is? Mainly will this clean out my injectors as well as a usual injector service or not?

Any help would be appreciated

So I need to have my injectors cleaned on my 94 WRX and I've heard good things about carbon cleaning. The engine will idle roughly when up to temperature and struggle to start as my fuel injectors were second hand I think they need cleaning.The service looks like it will cost £89.99 and take 30 minutes does anyone know how effective it is? Mainly will this clean out my injectors as well as a usual injector service or not?

Any help would be appreciated

Also does carbon cleaning clean out the injectors? 

I have 440 yellows on my classic wrx but when i bought them they were second hand. Recently the car has had a rough idle when warm and sometimes struggles to start and needs encouragement from the accelerator. Seems maybe a tad down on acceleration also. These all point to my injectors needing professionally cleaned am i right?

After reading through what people are saying it does sound like a unnecessary amount of power for a road car. What would you guys recommend is a good amount of power for a road set up. I will take it on the track now and again and i am planning a trip to the nurburgring its always going to be my daily driver.

I just think it would be a waste to have the engine taken out and built to standard i may aswell go for more power while its out. I know to achieve the power i would need bigger injectors and turbo but this could all be done in the future I'm just thinking build the engine first.

wow now thats a lot of money haha.

No i cant see it being used as a track car just maybe now and again for fun not anything extreme

So 500 is the figure to aim at then? Am i correct in getting it built first then adding what i need to reach 500 later on as i couldn't afford it all at once.

Ive been quoted 15 grand by scoobyclinc after a few emails in the past discussing reaching 430bhp which did include a 6 speed and turbo. But I'm more for the idea of just getting the engine built to handle the figure safely then worrying about reaching that figure in the future i wouldn't mind having a 500bhp capable engine but only running 350 for now.

Thanks for the help 

So thinking far into the future it would be a dream to get this car to reach 500 or 600 bhp so apart from millions of pound what does it take haha. My thinking was to have the engine built to take a ridiculous amount of power but then just keep it running around 300-350bhp and acquire what i need to get the full potential over the years. I need the engine rebuilt soon anyway and I'm just thinking while its out why not go all out when i know what i have planned for the future.

The car has done 110,000 miles now i have no proof off any previous owners of a rebuild in the past but i have had the cam belt checked and all is well. Its running 312bhp now being held back by dirty injectors and a 5 speed box which I've been told will go if its pushed much further.

Current specs:

440 yellow injectors , front mount intercooler , RCM fuel pump , K&N 9" cone filter , TDO5 turbo , 3" straight pipe exhaust from the turbo back.

So just want peoples opinions of what it would take

what Injectors?

what turbo?

what internals to go for?

can the car handle it?

Know anyone who has done it?

This is my 1994 WRX owned it for 2 years now brought it from mot failing and falling apart making 230bhp to what it is now. A lot of hard work and all my wages 

what do you guys think? i know some prefer the older look it used to have.

So i tried a new box and still nothing it makes no sound and doesn't lock the 3 passenger doors only the drivers door locking still :( The central locking box is getting power to it though 

Ive already booked my ticket before seeing the club had a stand is it to late to try and get in you think?

Just been out to the car and tried what you said in the last message unfortunately still no luck. Ive tried the old central locking box with the new connectors on the wires to see what happens and now i don't get any sound at all just completely dead but there is power going through the wires.

I am wondering if my original box has gone and maybe the replacement box i got hold of had already broke as it had just been sat in a old turbo in a scrap yard. Is it worth me trying to get hold of another second hand one from eBay or do you not think its a box problem?

 Bulldogs - Just been out and checked the clamp it all seems fine no damage and it works fine both bars moving locking and unlocking the drivers door fine.

With the old central locking box fitted with corroded terminals it made the sound of locking and unlocking when i wobbled it with my hand but would still only work on the drivers door.

The picture below- the red and black wire don't have any power going to it which I'm not sure what they control.

The bottom wires do have power going through them.

Hello Bulldogs yes you can hear the the drivers door locking and unlocking fine but the other doors make no sound.

Replaced black central locking box under passenger footwell

Checked wiring to the box which the plug did have corrosion on so i cut the plug from the wires and put connectors onto the ends of the wires straight into the new central locking box and still nothing

checked the fuses under bonnet and under steering wheel

I have a 94 WRX import

My central locking didn't work when i first bought the car 2 years ago but was easily fixed by a second hand central locking box. Now it seems it has gone again only this time a new box hasn't worked. I first realized this after i had finished soundproofing the doors and when i finished for the day i locked the car. When i came back to it in the morning i opened the rear right door to get something out the back and the alarm started going off however the drivers door remained locked so i thought i have maybe done something while soundproofing the drivers door.

The connection to the central locking box located under the passenger footwell has corrosion in the box and on the end of the connectors of the wiring so i got a replacement box and new connectors on the end of the wiring yet still nothing.

There seems to be a wire that runs inside the door that isn't getting power but i don't know if this has anything to do with central locking. I will add picture of it below.

It has always been abit temperamental like if you slightly moved the box the car would unlock or wouldn't work again till you moved it again yet now i cant get anything out of it.

Have checked every fuse as i didn't know which one it could be and nothing wrong with any of them.

This is a pain as I've spent a day trying to sort this out and got nowhere does anyone have any ideas? The drivers door is the only one that locks and unlocks. The picture below is a wire i found plugged in but doesn't seem to be getting any power.

yes checked under drivers footwell and under bonnet all are fine

My central locking didn't work when i first bought the car 2 years ago but was easily fixed by a second hand central locking box. Now it seems it has gone again only this time a new box hasn't worked. I first realized this after i had finished soundproofing the doors and when i finished for the day i locked the car. When i came back to it in the morning i opened the rear right door to get something out the back and the alarm started going off however the drivers door remained locked so i thought i have maybe done something while soundproofing the drivers door.

The connection to the central locking box located under the passenger footwell has corrosion in the box and on the end of the connectors of the wiring so i got a replacement box and new connectors on the end of the wiring yet still nothing.

There seems to be a wire that runs inside the door that isn't getting power but i don't know if this has anything to do with central locking. I will add picture of it below.

It has always been abit temperamental like if you slightly moved the box the car would unlock or wouldn't work again till you moved it again yet now i cant get anything out of it.

Have checked every fuse as i didn't know which one it could be and nothing wrong with any of them.

This is a pain as I've spent a day trying to sort this out and got nowhere does anyone have any ideas? The drivers door is the only one that locks and unlocks. The picture below is a wire i found plugged in but doesn't seem to be getting any power.

So I noticed this with my old Lexus style lights that there is a gap which allows water in so I sealed it with glue on my old lights but now I've got the new sti lights I've noticed there is still a gap , is this just a bad design? Think I should just seal these new ones again?