cornish6544

Car went into Eurospec performance garage for a remap yesterday it was going to be an all day job i was told as i was getting a simtek ECU fitted.Got a phone call 3 hours later saying there was a problem with the bar only reaching 0.7 then letting it all out? now i have no idea what this means but the guy told me they are keeping it till monday to try and sort it out.

now i know its to do with the turbo and the boost but thats about it so if someone could explain what he is talking about and is it costing me money them keeping it longer?

Already paid 650 for ecu and it was agreed 350 for the remap itself 

Cheers

Brad

sorry mate would have got them but I've already got myself some yellows 

yes it is TD05 , Brilliant!

Any ideas on the injectors ?

So I'm going to scooby clinic for a alcatek ECU fitted and mapped and while I'm there I'm upgrading my injectors they are standard at the moment and I've bee told to get yellow 440's. Scooby clinic are charging me 400 quid plus vat to supply and fit new injectors so am i better off buying some second hand ones or paying for new?

So when i come to buying second hand yellows is there just the one kind? just want to be certain i turn up with the right injectors to be fitted before the mapping 

Ive got a WRX classic 94 

3.5 inch exhaust

front mounted intercooler 

new spark plugs

AEM induction kit 

Standard turbo

RCM fuel pump

Am i right to be expecting 300 BHP?

From the picture attatached can anyone tell me if this ecu has a daughter board ?

I have BC BR coil overs on a impreza GC8 shape

set to 6 clicks from hard on front and rear

running 32 psi front and 30 rear

Its the front of the car that is bouncy just on general driving and you really feel any bump in the road could this be incorrect spring rate on the front?

Anyone know how tight to tighten the ancillary belt on a classic gc8 and what type pressure I should have on front and rear

Cheers

Think am going to go for the yellow injectors thanks 

with the dual map idea I've gone off it now I'm just going to be careful with the boost ;) 

hopefully taking it to scooby clinic soon so ill let you know how it goes , cheers lads

going to be a long one so thanks for reading if you get through it , So I've recently came into some money , 1000 to be exact and of course i want to spent it all on my car 

At the moment i have a classic 94 which is running 230BHP due to the turbo being turned down since I've had it but I do have a printout from the previous owner for 271BHP 

I currently have these mods done:

3 inch cone induction kit 

3 inch decatted exhuast stainless steal from the turbo back 

RCM fuel pump

front mounted intercooler 

fuel injectors if someone could recommend what type to go for that would be great

The big one is the ecu i was told when i bought the car it had been remapped to 271bhp but is there a way to check i have a mappable ecu as it all looks pretty standard on first looks 

Finally as i am based down south but live up north i wouldn't mind have an adjustable map so i can have a kind of eco mode for the 6 hour drive home then a fun full power mode for when I'm home is this possible ???

With a remap I'm hoping to be on above 300bhp ?

let me know what you think if you managed to get through it all , cheers 

The 2 pipes that you were talking about on mine aren't connected to anything in the engine bay

My air con has been removed and pipes disconnected , has been like this since I bought it

So my scooby has its turbo turned right down I'm told for Eco driving I'm not turning it up until I get it mapped but my dump value doesn't seem to make the right sound it just sounds like it's not using full power and being lazy could this be because the turbo is turned down?

It's a blitz valve and it has no damage

Since I've had my classic since july the heating hasn't worked , if you turn it on cold air still blows out but doesn't heat up , wasn't a problem in summer but now i wouldn't mind having some heating and demisting the windscreen is becoming a problem

Recently got a donor car for my classic and i was told it had a remapped ecu but when i looked it doesn't have any brand names on or look anything special 

is there a way to tell if its standard or after market?

So i fitted my front mounted intercooler and serviced the car and wanting to finish off by adding a bigger turbo 

any ideas on brands and power?

Would be getting fitted to a 94 classic thats done over 100 thousand miles

cheers lads , i guess i just over reacted to the price because i can fit them myself but have no tools down here where I'm based but problem solved ,

cheers

Took my scooby down to a local scooby garage deals and specializes with impreza's i thought getting the spark plugs changed would maybe cost 30 for new plugs and maybe 25 to 50 to fit but the rang back saying it was all done and it will cost me 140 quid?! am i just being stingy or is this a ripoff?

The girl on the phone mentioned re clamping one of the intercooler pipes aswell as that had came off but i cant see that costing anything 

i go to pick it up and pay tomorrow ,what should i do?

Thanks

ok so i have my new interior fitted in my classic all fits well but the door cards from this interior don't fit as i knew before i bought so i now need the same blue colour as the seats to glue on my old door cards , does anyone know what or where i can find this exact blue or if subaru had a certain name for the colour?

This is the colour I'm looking for shown below , any help will be appreciated to finally have my new interior sorted!

The drivers seat window screeches a really high pitch sound like scratching your nails down a chalkboard everytime it goes down but completely fine going up?

yeah i done alinement but i couldn't do the rear because of the rear arm does it make such a difference to the steering if the rear is out ?

Ill double check the brakes again and if not take into kwik fit again , cheers mate

i don't think thats the case either mate i have new tyers new alloys second hand BC coilovers and new track rod ends 

with all this i can't see the problem :S

yeah it doesn't go away it continues until i come to a complete stop 

If the rear arm is causing it which we are only doubtful about then it could be a lot of money and still not fix it 

I just don't think it could be that because the front was alined only a month ago 

no i didn't mate they were charging quite a high price and i didn't think that would be the problem , i guess ill have to look into it now I've done balancing though 

with the rear suspension arm needing swapped i can't really get it done 

Right so i taken the car to kiwk fit for all 4 wheels to be balanced as i was told this was probably causing the problem , all 4 wheels did need re-balanced but this has not solved the problem at all the wheel still rattle/vibrates really bad once i reach 60 mph 

It used to do it every now and again on and off but now whenever i reach 60 or higher the wheel will just not stop rattling/vibrating in my hands am not talking a small vibration i mean you can see the wheel moving and my hands shaking its close to undrivable

It moves side to side ever so slightly but no major play its just the annoying fact of a rattling wheel when i have to drive for 6 hours on monday.

If anyone has any ideas on what this could be please help! 

Details:

Classic JDM Impreza import 1994 

All wheels balanced as of today 

Rear suspension arm does need swapped but not sure thats what is causing the problem here