Jay762

I have two points that may cause you issues. 1. The rear bumper diffuser shape - does it have the x2 cutouts you will need to fit the rear box? My 2.0RX has the WRX-S style with only a single cutout 2. The diameter of your cat back section will probably be smaller than the STI pipe so the front donut gasket you have ordered will fit the outside diameter no problem but the inside diameter will be too big. This is what I was supplied for putting a WRX turbo exhaust onto my 2.0NA RX you can see the new one has a larger diameter than the OEM RX but the OD was very close so a replacement for my RX work no problem

Wotcha and welcome - They vary dependent on spec, being forged is a selling point for some but full and detailed service history is valued by others, some only like low number of owners. but around 10-12k seems to be the mark at the moment. Feel free to post a for sale thread in the sales section

Feel your pain - totally sucks when you buy a 'built' motor and its turns out to have been slung together and subsequently fails after a short time

Its a 3.3ohm, few pence of evil bay

The wrx wings will fit straight on as they are the same as the model you have. The STI wings are wider and whilst they will bolt on you will need the front bumper as well due to the width increase

Great to hear - Feel free to share some photos 🙂

Wotcha and welcome - nice motor, one of the final ones with my preferred front end 👍

Wotcha and welcome - Keep us posted

OK for what is is worth this is the setup on my Impreza. The lead is part of a loom that is fed from inside the car so replacing a link looks to be out of the question so you would be looking at splicing in some more wiring dependent on what exactly is broken Under the motor the cabling feeds through the grommet into the boot space The cable (The piece held by green tape) is routed under the metal piece and is routed up under the side panel where it then is routed back over the wheel arch towards the front of the car

currently under SORN from DEC 2018, so someone has it parked up somewhere

Always good to hear about the great service stories 👍

Pitch Mount addressed Before Bracket powdercoated Comparison After

Probably but as it is Apple it will likely be about £300 😄😄😄

The endoscope is something you could have a go at yourself for a small investment https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-5mm-USB-Endoscope-Borescope-Inspection-Tube-Camera-For-Android-Mobile-UK/133439985252?hash=item1f11a49664:g:7VsAAOSw6lFe6IBE

Started pulling suspension apart to address split dust boots, they had not been trimmed on assembly so when compressed they rub on the springs and split - both fronts missing altogether. An argument could be made for running without them - cosmetic etc but I always tend to follow what the pros do and if motorsport teams run with them and Ohlins supplies them as part of the original kit they should be there IMO Discovered that the units had also been incorrectly assembled (shouldn't be surprised really) with the front and rear set both having different springs They should be 90Nm front and 70Nm on the rear - here are the fronts where you can see the difference in spring diameter and 70C (70Nm) labelled on the spring Awaiting the dust boots but the springs have been blasted and powder coated ready for reassembly

Progress being made on reassembly Powerflex polybushes fitted to powdercoated and painted parts Subframe powdercoated with Whiteline & Powerflex bushes in place

Gear linkage tweaked with replacement bushes and a quick shift kit Before This is where all the plastic bits go if you install a meter behind a panel but just go at the panel with a dremel in situ Ball out of socket Perrin QS installed Socket nice and clean After Underneath - Standard Subaru support bush and gear link bush After with Whiteline rear support, Perrin front

After a week of soaking in penetration oil (Plus Gas) and attacks with a lump hammer and bolster, SDS hammer chisel I resorted to the press 9 tonne to get the bearing out from the hub Derusting Undercoat Top coat x 4 After trying several different methods described on the web, press, drillout followed by SDS chisel I opted for old school blowtorch Stripped a thread due to rusted solid so a little bit of welding but even more grinding... Diff spruce up Rusted Prepped Painted Other bits in gloss

Lots of work for what appears to be very little progress. Put in an additional wire from the fuel pump panel to the ECU which will give the option of individual pump control based upon conditions (boost / demand etc) as opposed to both internal pumps running constantly. This can be switched just by moving moving a single fuse in the panel from one location to another. Testing the Fuel pumps showed some leaks from the Torques UK joints after some backwards and forwards with them and establishing I had assembled correctly I will be redoing the fuel lines with an alternate supplier, tried the cheaper option but I now have no trust in the other joints that didn't leak. Fuel spillage in the boot lifted part of the sound deadening so lifted the rest - will replace with some dynamat Dropped the rear subframe and differential to spruce up and replace all the bushes for polyurethane alternatives. Discovered the fuel filler pipe rusting

Sounds like a plan - Looking on the positive side you now have an opportunity to start a build thread?

Wotcha and welcome - I can have a look tomorrow to see if the lead is part of the loom or disconnects further up close to the body, that should give you an idea if an repair may be a better option

Wotcha and welcome - there is a also a time element to consider - how long was it since the belt was changed has the car been sat etc. I change the belts at 40K intervals or when I first get a new motor so I know what I am dealing with, known baseline etc along with a full service, plugs oil, filters etc. IMO get them changed 😉

Wotcha and welcome - feel free to post a sales thread and good luck with the sale

Wotcha and welcome - It is unfortunate your first post is such a downer. Many of us travel significant distances to get our motors so nothing strange there. I myself bought a motor that had been 'built' by a tuning company, the engine lasted 4000 miles - I only managed 1000 before I noticed the oil in coolant, so you are not alone. The cost to transport back to origin would need to be weighed up with cost to complete repairs yourself, if the seller has offered to resolve this I believe this is the correct course of action in a dispute. If you decide to return it then I would want proof for repairs - receipts for components etc. I suspect there will be some expense incurred by yourself to resolve this however way you approach it so it will be down to how much you want to pay out vs peace of mind with the solution. Keep us posted though

Wotcha and welcome. Dump valve - easily reverted to a recirc from a vent to atmosphere, yes they can make the car run rich as the air that has passed the maf means the ECU is pumping in fuel expecting it to all be there but it has just been vented where as the fuel is still being pumped in. MPG can also be dependent on your driving style. A bespoke map even with a standard setup can get extra midrange which helps overall mpg although I must admit I would expect more like 28 - 30 for your motor Fuel filter - no idea for your model but they do have an intank one green stuff on manifold - this could be the stuff subaru sprays all over the bay bay as a corrosion resistor but check your hoses and cap for any coolant leakage. Rusty brake booster - Subaru metal protection is not great, I am powder coating a lot of my painted stuff but also use ACF50