Martian

Just reread my messages with the mapper and the reseating the injector seals with a bit of grease fixed a cold start problem i had forgot about, but not the other mentioned problem described above.

Hi, Just wondering if any of you technical guys can help me out? I have had my car mapped, TD05, yellow injectors, walbro fuel pump, 3 bar map sensor, and newage coil packs. Since then the idle has been off, when it first starts its nearly 2000 rpm and will sit there for a while, I blip the throttle and it will drop a bit, then about a minute later it will start hunting, unfortunately it does this even when driving. This hunting makes it impossible to crawl in traffic with just a touch of throttle as in first and second it kangaroos. It does it in every gear but obviously the higher gears its not as noticeable. If i drive foot to the floor the car is fine, unfortunately I cant drive like that in traffic. When I first got the car back home and noticed it I contacted the mapper who suggested an unseated injector seal, so I took them all out and greased the seals slightly and the problem did not go away however i felt it was a bit better, im not sure if that was a placebo effect or not though. Is there anything else i can check whilst im chatting to the mapper? As this could possibly be either a mechanical fault or mapping fault and i would like to be able to say i have checked things before asking for a free fine tune and then finding out its actually something else. Thanks

Crazy! It could come in really handy sometime.... like when I end up upside down in a ditch in the middle of nowhere, I can hear the rescue chopper but it cant see me, I will reach into my trusty Subaru passenger foot well and pull out my rescue flare, fire it into the air, and blow up my hand instead, because Subaru actually put an explosive into the car instead of a flare. Might have to let mine off somewhere then, get a bit of fun out of it seeing as its an explosive.

The switch is definitely a rear fog light, i have the exact same switch on my import, best to check tho, turn it on and go out and have a look. The other is a flare, which i didn't know was illegal?? Mine has been in my car since 1994 when it was first imported.

I appear to have sorted my injector problem out, took them out one by one and checked them out, all looked perfect. New seals that i put on a few weeks ago looked fine. I used a bit of red teflon grease to seat the seals and made sure i didnt put too much on that would interfere with the fuel and she started perfectly. I took her for a run around the block at low revs, sub 1500 in first and second and no kangarooing! Tomorrow will be the acid test, will it mess up overnight. I also fitted phillips h4 racing vision plus 150% bulbs so i can finally see at night in oncoming traffic

Thanks to advice from the mapper i have found the problem starting and in low gear at low revs to be a leaking injector seal. When starting the car at work earlier i smelt fuel whilst it was trying to turn over which confirmed the problem. Problem is I put new seals on when fitting the injectors which where sonically cleaned and flow tested before fitting.

When i have some spare cash im buying the lead for my esl so I can do the same, or at least help find the problem before I have to go get mapped again. Its a bit of a pig to start. (not going on an I hate the mapper rant, the rest of it seems to be fine.) And I wouldn't mind knowing what the cause of the problem is before i go driving off if its not a mapping problem. Anyway, today I bought a v2 sti steering rack with roll centre track rod ends (whatever they are lol). That will replace my leaky wrx steering rack and I will replace the bushes and few other bits at the same time.

I wish i could make head or tails of the info I read on esl data. I'm thinking of buying the cable to attach to mine to get the data off so I can learn how it runs.

@GeoffLeggy Haha im already all smiles! But yes once the leaks are sorted I will be happy. I was just going to fit the koni shock inserts and that will be that. However.... I am now thinking about buying prodrive or similar springs. I dont want slammed or track settings. I am after slightly lowered and firmer that will cope with B roads and Shropshire pot holes. Also I am thinking about buying a set of cheap GF8 shocks and cleaning them up and painting them, fitting the inserts and getting everything ready for the day of fitting to avoid any complications that can be avoided on the day. And whilst I'm at it I may aswell look at anything else I can replace whilst they are off.

Lol dude I have the same problem! I have no engine issues other than some leaky bits but I have noticed that air sound when accelerating. I have only noticed it the last few weeks, probably because I have been closing my windows since the cold started and they have been open all summer. I know nothing about the air system, but in my head a broken air recycling switch thing might allow air pushed by driving into the cabin even when you switch the recycle cabin air button, which I tried. Or if the switch isnt broken, then the bit of plastic that the switch moves to block air will be broken. I have no idea, they are just thoughts i have had. Edit, it might not be that because i just remembered I get it when the air unit dial thing is switched to off, so it should not be allowing any air through the system...

I am not entirely sure what exactly it will do to your car. I can only speak from experience with a lot older import. I have been using tesco 99 for the last year with occasional shell vpower top ups and had no problems. I recently changed jobs and started using texacos 97 ron performance fuel. Thought it would do the job. The car slowly started running like a bag of nails, kangarooing in low gears when approaching traffic lights slowly etc. This went on for a week and a half before i finally realised that it wasnt a mechanical problem. Filled up with half a tank of shell and half of tesco 99 and the problems disappeared. This to me backs up their claim. There is a difference between fuels. Im no scientist or engineer, but read that higher octane fuels react differently under high heats and combustion pressure. It would make sense that higher bhp targets include higher heat and combustion pressure.... When my car was mapped yesterday the mapper asked me what fuel i had in my tank and what fuel i was going to use regularly. I had my shell, tesco mix in it and said I would continue with that. It sounds like you dont have a choice about the fuel you will use, but thankfully above 280bhp imo 30bhp wont make an extreme amount of difference, get an aggressive map and you will still be really happy.

@GeoffLeggy Yeah! It will be fun if i can get my mates to help though. I cant wait to get rid of that burning oil smell everytime i pull up somewhere! Also my engine is filthy, I cant wait to clean it and it stay clean! Yesterday I had alan carr map the car. He was an alright chap. Not very talkative. The two maps are awesome. A low boost one to try and save on petrol day to day, its running 0.5bar of boost, Alan says that it is slightly more power over all than factory but using less fuel and smoother due to the newage coil packs and other mods combined with less boost, so about 230 i guess. The second map is 1.2 bar of boost and about 310 he reckons. Its absolutely nuts I tried to get to the appointment in time to let the car get cold but he put me ahead of someone who had dropped the car off for the day so it was still warm unfortunately. When it starts from cold it needs more starter motor to kick over than before. Nothing major. Overall im very happy. Konis arrived today

I knew i had an oil leak somewhere on the engine and a power steering fluid leak from the steering rack, but didnt know how bad until a mate and i got under the car with some bright lights last night and discovered both rocker gaskets leaking, 1 badly the other really badly. My sump gasket is leaking, fairly badly (not the sump plug washer, the actual sump gasket.) My steering rack is leaking power steering fluid out of the steering rack gaitor. My power steering pump housing is leaking fluid all over the top of my engine. Its being mapped thursday to accommodate the td05, injectors, pump and map sensor and then its parts buying time.... again Im really looking forward to taking it all apart and fixing this problem myself with my mates. The sump leak has been undiagnosed despite 2 mechanics looking at it and been a pain in my !Removed! making me wonder where the stains under my car has come from lol And I have just this second won some brand new Koni inserts front and rear on ebay at an amazing price, no more bouncy wagon!

Sorry bud, its a sucky thing to have happen to you when you have just bought a car. In all honesty you will end up saving money and massive headaches by getting a refund and spending the extra on the 2.0. Plus you will get endorphines from having the 2.0

I had to cancel my appointment with Bob Rawle last week which i was gutted about. I am looking to head down to see him at the end of the month, 1st map will be an eco map, hoping to see about 35mpg, and the second map will be what I can safely see, 300ish, I dont want to be breaking gearboxes tho lol.

I had work at 4pm last friday and didn't finish it until 3pm lol, I started it and it was really rough, turns out i forgot to tighten up the bottom of the up pipe Fixed that and it ran a lot better. But I messed up the rear exhaust, it was not aligned properly and the gasket needed replacing. Sorted that today and it sounds a lot better and doesn't gas me out when i stop at traffic lights which is always a bonus! This has completely changed the car! It is insane! Pulls all the way through the rev range when the turbo kicks in, the old map pulled to 4000rpm and then dropped off and by 6000 it was gone. This sounds evil and is now a proper scooby!

Then my turbo turned up and a corner had broken off So I created a steel washer, found the broken piece in the box and super glued the broken piece to the main bit just so that it would be in place when I tightened the bolts. Then I cleaned off my resonator delete and painted it with high temp gloss black. My air intake pipe was absolutely filthy, I think a 3 port catch can will be soon. Cleaned it all out with brake cleaner before fitting.

I have been really busy with the wagon over the last few weeks, I have been stockpiling bits and pieces to all go on at the same time. TD05 turbo that has done aprox the same mileage as my car, 70 odd thousand miles. 2.8 bar map sensor Newage coil packs and pfr7 spark plugs gapped to 6mm as per request from bob rawle Walbro fuel pump Greddy up pipe ESL board with a 6k map on it that will work with my mods until I can get it mapped soon. Yellow injectors First though I had some maintenance and cleaning to do whilst I had space in the engine bay, my intercooler was proper messed up, so I bought a second and fixed the fins on that and just swapped them over. My old one Cleaning all done.

Quite possibly because its already quite a low car... It made the steering all twitchy and the tyres wear unevenly. A bad experience that im wary of repeating.

Damn those are some bright wheels, welcome

Hi, and welcome. I hope you find the parts you are looking for. Contact some import business's (import car parts, import monster, Jesse Streater), breakers, and not pushing you away at all, but try a legacy specific forum for parts or breakers. Make sure you let us know how you get on.

This guy used to be my cat, the missus took him and his sister. This guy was my fave though, he was lazy, full of attitude but always up for a laugh, as smart as a brick (I love that expression, someone said it on a previous post) but totally awesome. I called him Storm. Its been 9 years, cant quite believe it, but I still miss him.

I lowered my old celica on eibachs, worst mod I did to that car. It wore the tyres on the inside I think? It changed the steering a bit, and made it a bit harsh over bumpy roads, not too bad though. I think personally, that if you are going to lower, do the whole package not just springs, you need to be able to adjust camber etc to compensate and stop uneven wear on the tyres. For my current car I dont want to lower it much but want to improve the ride, so am looking at koni adjustable shocks and some springs, not sure which ones yet.

I use a wax free soap to wash, then when i have time a polish, then I use 100% carnauba wax. She comes up a treat... for a few days at least

Well I feel like a right Rodney, I didnt check the oil feed on the turbo before I went into panic mode. It is a 10mm banjo on the turbo side and 12mm on the engine side, so its ready to go. Its old, but i have checked and there is no dirt or blockages on it so its going on. Its a shame as I have a fancy new aftermarket one that I will have to return or sell on. I wonder why some td05's have 12mm and some have 10mm banjo bolts?