Mattb

Pulled the front knuckle assembly out ready for new wheel bearings and hubs, ABS bolts snapped both sides and a blackend finger but their out! So might as well do the ball joints, trackrod ends, drop links and new brake backing plates as well. Fortunes spent but still smiling.

Or there’s that one if it’s the next model up.

Hi again. There’s one on eBay for sale now. Have you a photo of which wheel you want?

Message me mate and I’ll sort him. He’ll do the job at my place as I have a garage if it’s raining.

If you can get to tebay one night he’ll do it on his way back from his work. Not a big job he says, you T into the boost pipe and run a live from the ignition. You have all the parts I am guessing?

No worries, I’ll get back to you.

A few of my work mates are out that way, what model have you got and I’ll ask him if can do it.

I have a mate that works on my classic and he’s a good mechanic. Where abouts in Cumbria are you? Or should i say whesta frey?

Now then. There doesn’t seem to be any dedicated meets for Subaru owners but there’s quite a few classic car meets. Just keep an eye on the local rags, they’re usually advertised in there. A lakes tour next year would be good, seen as though it’s a stones throw away?

Hi. I see this post is nearly a week old but have you sorted it yet? If not I’d check the little leaver on the lock it’s self, (boot lid side) to see if it’s down. Drop the rear seats forward and take a torch with you. The boot side panels don’t fit that well and you will be able to get your finger down the side to see if the leaver has been knocked down. If it is the cable then am afraid it’s front and rear seats out, plastic sill plates out, boot side panels out then trace the cable out and back in with a new one. Good luck.

If it’s driving ok then I can’t see it being drive train related. I may be wrong though. I’d check all the droplink bolts, bushes, control arm, anti roll bar, struts... its really strange that he can move one side and you didn’t have a problem before you took it in?

The smoke would of been condensation in the exhaust. The oil leak could be one of a number of things. If you could get underneath and see whereabouts it’s coming from then put another shout on here and let the lads give you a diagnosis. Cheers.

It looks well. You need some sunny days for a cruise out now.

I don’t think you’ll want these door cards mate. After rattling round my garage for 2 years they aren’t the best.

Finally got the oil leak sorted. I had to get it in before my mechanic left to go and work on tractors for a living. 🤔 Oil seal changed, new separator plate fitted plus pin cover. Also flushed the cooling system, which looked like river water in a flood! New gear box oil and new clutch. Big thanks to Chris Alison @ Courtfield garage Appleby. I think I had my wear out the clutch!

Aye I’ll have a look mate, I’ll put some pictures on later. Mines having its oil leak sorted today. That means gear box out, new clutch, new crankshaft oil seal and new oil separator plate. Glad I bought the parts separate ages ago to split the cost! Typical though, I’ve sorted the oil leak at the front 2 years ago, the back oil leak today then another will start this next year I bet!!

Your restricted on door cards am afraid mate. You can swap seats round from model to model with not much difficulty but the door cards on the face lift are unique. I’ve got 2 in my garage but no idea what state their in.

Hi and welcome. Tricky one to answer as you have to weigh up if it’s worth it. If your happy with the car and it’s only the engine with no other issues then yes go for it. When sourcing an engine I’d say always buy from a reputable breaker not just one advertised on eBay as you don’t know what your getting, you could end up with a worse lump than the one you have. Good luck.

Aye you could get the price up with not much effort and expense to be fair.

Hi. I’d put it at £2000 - £2200. If the bodywork was tidied up it might get up to £3000 Immaculate inside and out £4000 Hope this helps. Cheers.

Looking tidy! It did my head in too when I went underneath the car and saw a rusty fan cowling.

Hi. Your shiny metal caps will be a different metal to your valves so will of corroded together. Squirt them with WD40 a couple of times and try again. The metal of the threads on the valve will go down quite a bit into the rubber so maybe squeeze it with cloth between the teeth on the pliers while you turn the valve cap. Just a question though. I had those type of caps many moons ago and they had tiny locking allen key screws on them...

I have a couple of sets of your interested.

Seems leshit to me.... 😆

I’d weigh up the cost to fix it and make the decision after. Be a shame to have all that work and effort getting the car like it is for it to be scrapped. Crying shame.