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Oil change time


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So 5k interim is coming up, used millers cfs10-40 for the past 3 years and happy with it, recently noticed my oil temps hitting the mid to high 90's when really pushing on for extended periods of motorway driving, spoken to Opie a while back, said there's not much point in a 10-50 any other views on this as most mapped/modded cars that I know go to 10-50?

Also thinking of possibly going down to a 5w as she lives outside now and when I don't use the sump heater takes a little longer to get up to temp opinions please

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7 minutes ago, stants said:

 

Normal speed it's fine only when north of 80 ish

I heard that coolers do more harm then good in daily drivers?

total rubbish mate, only people who say that don't have a clue about correct setup. Usual drivel I hear is people saying they keep the oil too cool. when the reality is they bought a cheap kit that didn't come with thermostatic control. aka a sandwich plate only diverts oil too the cooler when the temp goes over a certain temp..

 

 

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Are you comparing oil temps to before and after Duncan mapped it ?

As the jdm ecu had probably tweeked the fuelling and pulled timing out. Creating a safer colder map for our uk fuel to stop it leaning off .

Since mapping your probably running more boost and a tighter afr .

If you've been using the same grade oil for a while and it's only done it recently, I'd look at what else might have changed . Have you taken off any heat shields ,doing longer journeys since you moved or Changed a air filter maybe ?

I don't know for sure cos I'm no oil expert like tim .

I think a 5 w will be thinner when cold than the 10w ,so 5w will flow better when cold but it will be thinner creating more piston slap until up to temp .

The 50w will be thicker at 100% (once up to temp) and might cause more wear if the engine is quiet when up to temp with the 10w 40

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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  • 5 months later...

worth checking gauge accuracy & radiator system to be sure all A1 .
90 to a little over 100 is nothing to worry about in oil temp & about ideal as cleans out some of the moisture deposits once hot enough.
Quality full synthetic 10w40 can handle 115 & 120<>130 short term if has to.Too cool an oil is more bad than too hot, going higher viscosity than needed sucks mpg, hp & creates bit more heat . Oil coolers are okay when really needed ( ie: you getting 120+ & want keep it around 100), oil cooler is extra work for oil pump so be sure it fit & can still provide volume flow required .

 


 

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standard cooler thermostats tend be 80 which still little low really when road only . If not seeing prelonged over 100 on road no need for a cooler .
It just more weight & more work for oil pump when not really needed .
Does your 97 model have the oem oil to water cooler on it !?
 

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yeh that the one, they help speed up oil temp from cold as water heats faster than the oil, also handles bit of oil cooling when full running temps reached.
If water temp seems normal I would not be too concerned at present, calibrated oil gauge is more important than a cooler to start with, once seeing accurate temps for prolonged periods around 100<>105 then time look at a sensible 85<>90-thermostatic oil to air cooler .
 

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Well she went in for a major service and my mechanic put 10-50 in this time round, it's quietened it down a fair bit which is nice as doesn't make me wince as much on start up,

Also seeing a few degrees cooler on the gauge May just be me?

Spoke to Opie a while back and they said the makeup of the 10/40 & 10/50 is pretty much identical so should be fine,

Water always sits around 90° when up to temp, and behaves herself normally 🖒

Nice run down to the south of Wales Friday so give me plenty of opportunity to see how Temps look in mixed driving,

Randomly the evoacan software doesn't let me see oil Temps,

I know my water gauge reads a few degrees out over what the ecu sees so I assume the oil gauge may do the same

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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