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Forester 2.0 petrol any good?


Mdon
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neutral switch is the highest mounted of the 2
If in doubt put ignition on and in reverse and if pull connector off reverse switch the reverse lights will go out.

You may have the later model with map intake system over maf. if maf - maf is a small square looking block with loom connector bolted to flat moulding on plastic intake pipe. you remove plug and bolts and sensor pulls out and element cleaned with carb cleaner. Give me your engine number if need more precise info to what you actually got .

Shame mouldings not going on, would been nice way do them if rust minimal . One of those jobs where 4 arms and a heat gun or hair drier would be useful .


 

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On 16/12/2016 at 9:28 AM, Mr B said:

neutral switch is the highest mounted of the 2
If in doubt put ignition on and in reverse and if pull connector off reverse switch the reverse lights will go out.

You may have the later model with map intake system over maf. if maf - maf is a small square looking block with loom connector bolted to flat moulding on plastic intake pipe. you remove plug and bolts and sensor pulls out and element cleaned with carb cleaner. Give me your engine number if need more precise info to what you actually got .

Shame mouldings not going on, would been nice way do them if rust minimal . One of those jobs where 4 arms and a heat gun or hair drier would be useful .


 

Hi MrB as you can probably tell my free rest days are few and far between. My engine number is 124918.

 

cheers

 

mike.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I know is probably going to jinx the whole situation however the EML and 519 code hasn't popped up again since I had the gearbox and rear diff oil changed. Fingers crossed and touch wood that has something to do with it, it's been 3 weeks now. Does that sound possible Mr B?

 

the car has gone into the bodywork garage today to get both rear arches done, once done I indeed to perhaps fit some all season tyres as per your suggest in the other thread and I've found a light bar and some spotlights to fix on by the number plate, I've already found and bough some genuine front rubber mats (can't find the rear ones though) and she has some nice new roof bars for my kayak and mountain bike. The car is almost complete.

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Fingers crossed then Mr B. No doubt I'll be back on here when it comes on again. I'm going to sort the neutral switch anyway if it comes back on or not. I got the car back tonight, haven't been able to look in the daylight yet but she appears to have two rust free and smooth rear wheel arches. 

 

These are the lights I'm looking at, 

 

mounting bar:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252448992992 

 

Lights, either a 14 or even better a 20" LED bar something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172245707559 

 

Or a pair of hella compact spots something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252681462170 

 

Which do you think would look better?

I also need to workout how to wire them up, if just using leds may put them to the full beam circuit or separate switch, I don't know if the current wiring to the full beam would take the extra load for two spots or a 20" LED bar, have you any suggestions?

I don't have any blanks anywhere as all switch slots are taken up with cruise control etc etc so I would have to cut holes in the dash. 

 

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^ rectangular like the Hellas ideally I think .

Very easy make your own light bar, problem with eBay one is sticks outwards a lot as bumper already protrudes massively on the SG fozzy, can make simple one from some alloy flat bar and short length alloy angle plus some stainless bolts or rivets and fit similar by using number plate fixings but also have 2 flat bars go through grill to keep it firm, wiring can run under one of these bars (eBay one one just 2 plate fixings will flex a lot making lighting look flickery) . doing this means lights can mount above and flush to bumper . We done a couple and alloy bumper lipped skid pan to replace the plastic nappy :-) ...

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I was planning on drilling through and bolting the lightbar onto the crashbar behind the bumper to keep it secure, I didn't think about it sticking out even further than the bumper. Have you got any photos of what you've done? 

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unfortunately not, is easy diy one though, just couple alloy flat bar strips off the number plate holes to a 25x50mm or 75mm alloy angle cut to required length for spotlight spacing.
Alloy bar easily shaped for nice contour and can go to back of angle keeping joints neat, less than £20 in materials inc stainless m6 bolts/nuts/washers .
You then feed a flat bar through the grill, can do one in centre as this lines up with bonnet latch support upright for easy attachment, can do 2 bars through grill but bit more work, 1 works fine and doubles as track for wiring .With fairly slim lights this keeps them flush to bumper so less prone to damage and vehicle length not increased .
You can get some A-bars with spot mounts, iffy with insurance these days though .

 

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