My Subi has Chicken Pox!!

KlassicSubi · October 14, 2016

Evening all

Sounds painful? Yep!!

Was just looking at the underbody of my 1999 v5 classic when I got a humongous scare - feckin rust spots & rust (apologies Mr Moderator aka Lord Gambit). A classic symptom of The Tin Machine (RIP DB).

What should I do?

Thought I'd call a rust proofing company called "Ultimate" who quoted £490 to rust proof the underbody with Dinitrol. Is that what I should be doing?

Or

Looking at the pics , I think the sway bars need replacing. What else should I be replacing? - - the Subi is 17years old with 100k.

i would definitely appreciate your advice guys.

stants · October 14, 2016

I'd replace the bits you can, arb, arb mounts heat shield etc, maybe the rear subframe if too far gone,

Get the car up on a ramp or stands, wire brush everything, then treat with a rust converting agent, then underseal with a waxoil spray or brush on underbody hammarite protector.

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KlassicSubi · October 14, 2016

Thanks Stants, would you know where I can get a workshop manual for my Impreza 1999 GC8?

i went on the Ken Gilbert website but couldnt download the manual.

stants · October 15, 2016

Pretty sure @savagebulldogs has some or links to them, have a look in his build thread think they are posted up there

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Jay762 · October 15, 2016

yup they are on this forum somewhere - I know Gambit uploaded some ages ago but here is an alternate link that may work...

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/?utm_source=SubaruOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks

savage bulldogs · October 15, 2016

I used the ones on ken gilbert for my early classic, think there's a link on the first or second page of my build thread .

Could it be a pop up of firewall setting on your p.c ?

Most of the front end rust pics look like it's just the manifold heat shields . Not too sure if you can get replacements but you could always remove the headers take the oe heatsheilds off and wrap the headers in heat wrap .

I'd say that the arb to chassis brackets look quite corroded but I just removed mine ground them back to bear metal .Then give them a coat of hammeright rust killing primer and smooth black paint . Seems to have held up ok for 2 winters so far .

Most get a uprated Whiteline arb ,which solves the look of twiglet looking standard arb for a while .As imo Whiteline stuff seems to do the job well but it rusts fairly easy and doesn't look mint for long .

KlassicSubi · October 16, 2016

Thanks for the replies & links Stants, Jay762 & SB (your detailed write up was excellent)

I totally agree with getting underneath with the wirebrush to check the overall condition.

Any recommendations on Whiteline Arbs - whether 22mm or 24mm for front & rear. I've seen link packs too so may line up an upgrade if the corrosion is really bad - I think it is lol

A question on Lifting kits, I've seen Halfords have a deal for £40 for 2 x 1tonne Axle stands & 2 Tonne jack - Or should I buy separately 2 x 1.5tons Axle stands & a 3 tons jack? Tempted to go with the later considering the motor weighs 1.2tons.

Also looking to get a full exhaust system so will definitely get the headers wrapped during installation.

stants · October 16, 2016

If your only planning on using the car on the road, I'd just go 22mm rear bar, leave the front stock, the will dial out any understeer and make it a more fun to drive, bigger bar on the front is only really needed for track work,

At that price point for a lifting kit the jack won't be much kop, I've been through 2 cheap machine mart ones, the axel stands will be fine, and I suspect you'll get at least a year out of the jack before it goes wonky, if you really want to invest you'll probably have to spend a ton or more on a good jack, all depends on how much your going to use it

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savage bulldogs · October 16, 2016

I used some old school axle stands (I've owned them for ages ) along with a halfrauds "pro" yellow jack. The jack has seen plenty of abuse during my use and is still going strong

kayzarh · October 16, 2016