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Caliper bolt seized


Diz
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Having a bit of a saga with a seized caliper bolt on my '04 WR1. Rear brake discs and pads have been replaced, have the front ones to do the job but the upper bolt on driver side is stuck fast. A few amateur mechanic friends have had a go at it but it will not budge. It has been sprayed with all sorts and had a *little* heat applied to it. I saw 'plusgas' mentioned in another older post, is that significantly better than other releasing oils for this job?

Failing that, can anyone recommend the best way of going about getting this off? Especially a solution that doesn't involve buying a new caliper, as that itself seems fine it's just the bolt holding it on that won't come off. Drilling it out and dismantling the caliper have been mentioned as possible solutions, would appreciate if anyone can advise on the pros and cons of those ideas. The MOT is due up soon and I want to avoid taking it to a Subaru dealer as I suspect I'll need to take out a second mortgage for the repair if I do that.

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Plusgas is OK, better than standard WD40 although WD also make a rust remover spray. I've used Rostek with good effect too but with everything like this, all releaser sprays need pre-treatment for some days - instant results are not going to happen. Have you got access to an impact wrench?

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Mine had Allen heads and were tight as to remove. Think I soaked them the day before with wd40 then used my Allen sockets on my 1/2" breaker bar n driver side. Then think I just removed calliper bolts on other side  to get calliper of its bracket instead of removing bracket as well I've the Godspeed big disc kit though 

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I do know BF was spraying the bolt for a couple of days in a row but don't know what he was using (although knowing him it would have been something decent, he's in the habit of stripping his motorbikes down to the last nut and bolt). But he can't get to the pit in his garage as there is too much stuff on top of it... so had limited space to maneuver. And we're in Scotland and the weather isn't good for doing work outdoors right now.

Pretty sure the garage that changed the back sets would have an impact wrench but they were too chicken to touch the front in case they busted it. Getting the feeling the bolt itself is going to end up needing busted one way or the other though.

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6 minutes ago, Tierney _turbo said:

Mine had Allen heads and were tight as to remove. Think I soaked them the day before with wd40 then used my Allen sockets on my 1/2" breaker bar n driver side. Then think I just removed calliper bolts on other side  to get calliper of its bracket instead of removing bracket as well I've the Godspeed big disc kit though 

It's Brembos that are on mine. All as per original spec as far as I know. Will need to ask re possibility of removing caliper versus bracket too. I'll have a go at my motorbikes but I'm a self-confessed dummy when it comes to cars.

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You need a decent hexagonal socket. Give it a good couple of wacks with an impact driver. Then get a breaker bar or wrench extension on it. Jack it up and turn the steering wheel for maximum clearance.

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Looks like you've tried most things I'd try to get it undone (soaking in wd ,heat ect)

Make sure you use a hex socket and not a "multi point" socket as this will help you not to round the bolt head off .

If it's a rear caliper and you can't get the room to get a bigger bar on it .you might be better off removing the hub ,caliper ,disc assembly and getting it in a vice .

Although that will mean you'll have to re bleed the brakes and get a 4 wheel alignment done once re fitted , it might lessen the chance of having to drill out the old bolt and having to re tap or helicoil the old thread .

I'd also bear in mind that the caliper might need the thread helicoiled afterwards anyways, as the ally brembos are prone to stripping the threads on removal.

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I'm making the assumption that it's the19mm bolt that holds the calliper to the wheel hub. This is how I'd remove it.

Turn the steering so you have a good view of the calliper bolt, find a flexible 1/2" ratchet. 

Find a normal good quality socket DONT use the multipoint sockets for old rusted bolts.

Get the socket and hammer it on the boly, if you do it right and the bolt isn't slipping it should crack, if it doesn't use my technique. 

Wear some timerblands or worker boots with thick soles, slide under the car and get someone to hold the top of the ratchet on the bolt ensuring it's on straight, then rotate the ratchet so you have a good angle to wack it with your heels, this is a overpowered breaker bar, if you hear creaking you're doing good.

If this doesn't work, get a gas bottle and hear the top of the bolt till it goes orange-red then try again.

If the bolt has been rounded or messed up, you'll have to wack a smaller socket on the bolt and restructure it.

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if the bolt head is rounded off you could get someone with a welder to weld a bar to bolt so you can turn it,comes straight off then,done it load with seized bolts on my capri,just buy new bolt then and use anti seize when fitting the new bolt.

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2 minutes ago, aucky said:

No sparks jay if you tig weld it

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Agree - welding is way to go - was thinking the spark erosion approach of 'burning' the bolt head away would be too much for the surrounding alloy casing  

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No sparks jay if you tig weld it

Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Agree - welding is way to go - was thinking the spark erosion approach of 'burning' the bolt head away would be too much for the surrounding alloy casing  

Misunderstood you mate,thinkin you mean sparks from welder.you could bur it off if your go steady n just was it off bit at a time,alloy dont burn like metal it will just go white hot but could loose its strengh.

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