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Hi everyone.

Ive not posted much on this forum but I thought id give a quick update on what the forester is wanting...... money. She wants my hard earned money!

Cam belt & water pump, x2 front inner cv boots, plugs & leads and Wiper Blades. All in parts are going to cost me around £300. Ive also dropped a Bo**ock by dropping my key fob in a puddle. Ive tried drying it out and replacing the batteries but I think she's a gonner. I need a new MPT 1340 single button, single LED fob. Does anyone know where I can get one? Ive hunted eBay and Amazon and I just keep finding crap.

Once all the parts and money has been spent, I will be looking at a few performance mods. Maybe a cat back system and a remap. I already have a K&N and a performance back box fitted. Does anyone have any other ideas that are worth doing to get more power from the 2.0 turbo unit? Suspension and wheels are standard. I may change the wheels but Id like to keep the standard suspension as its used as a daily, long trips and off road use.

Any tips on the cam belt and CV boot replacement?

Ta very much


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You'll need a higher flowing fuel pump if you go for a map, keep it from leaning off under increased boost,

As for the cv & cambelt are you after info on how to chnaged them or where to buy ?

Personally I wouldn't bother with the water pump, but it's your car can do what you want 😀

It's best off to do the pullies/idlers too when changing the belt,

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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Power from a 2.0 lump, hmmmmm..... depends on how far you want to go, both @Tidgy and @savage bulldogs are running 2.0 lumps with a reasonable power delivery, They have a great project threads here

Or you could take it a bit further

The Gobstopper 2 runs a 2.0 turbo and is reasonably nippy :biggrin:


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Cheers lads.

Ive gone and bought all the parts, including a water pump as a precaution.

Ive seen a few videos on doing a EJ cam belt and ive done a few on other vehicles before but never on one of these so any tips would be nice.

Also on doing the CV boots. Ive done plenty before (its one of my least favourite jobs in the world to do) but any pointers? Are the pot joints held in by a drift pin at the g.box end?

As for power id probably be happy with anything over 200hp.

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Can't help much with the cambelt as I always pay someone to have mine done,

Watched them do it this time, looks easy enough with a locking tool and the knowledge, but what the garage did in an hour and a half would take me 5+ 😂

I have been road bulldog clips are a useful tool to help with keeping it in place,

There is a drift pin at the gearbox end on the driveshaft,

Which year foz have you got ?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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MPT1340 remote would be 2 button (one lock, one unlock) if you got single button have you actually got a M30 alarm installed ? upload pic of remote ...

Cambelt is pretty easy, I did write a guide in thread on here but youtube video has loads to give you idea on how proceed. Is super easy car do cambelts on to be honest as boxer layout works well here

Best tips is pull rad out with fans attached & mark old belt tooth to pulley's with marker pen and transfer to new belt as makes it impossible go wrong if do well. couple bulldog clips are super useful fitting new belt unless have 4 arms .
Buy quility cambelt kit such as ADL blueprint or Dayco, waterpump best inspected for play, bearing roughness and seal integrity and if do replace use quality japanese pump or you throwing better part in bin (Subaru waterpumps are superb quality and can do over 150K easily)
Other thing inspect is the crank oil seal as these common leak and as only £7 for genuine seal they worth doing as only another 15 minutes work when cambelt off .

driveshaft boots super easy on subaru, just loosen drive nut and be sure shaft free in hub then punch out drive pin, remove wheel, pull 2 bolts from strut (mark position of top bolt as it camber adjustment bolt) The shaft can be pulled out of hub while still attached to lower arm. strip and clean on bench and refit. Buy good boots such as ADL or SolidAce as fit like oem and last way way longer than cheaper brand stuff.


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Right an update.

The remote plip is indeed an M30 alarm. It did however have MPT1340 on the reverse of it. However I managed to find a used plip on eBay and programmed it in. :)

I replaced all 4 spark plugs and leads. They were a bit of a bugger but not too difficult.

The CV boots... now then. I posted a while ago about a burning smell I had coming from the car. well turns out cv grease on a hot cat will stink like a gud un. I replaced both front inner cv boots. After a couple of drives though they kept popping off! I think ive got them to stay on now. I HOPE.

I also got the car tracked up and wheels balanced. Much nicer on the motorway now.

Unfortunately I never got time to do the cam belt. All the work I did above was done in the pouring rain on my week off from work amongst trying to have a break.

for info my foz is a 2.0 turbo on a w reg (1999) The car is in priddy good condition for its age and from the looks of things well maintained by the previous owner. 

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Cv boots can be issue coming off if poor size match and don't have proper lips, only ones we use are adl or solidace as they fit just like oem. We use nylon zip ties on inner boots, must be proper nylon not the plastic **** and larger width strap so strong. Mainly go with them as quick easy light and don't rot.

Cambelt is pretty easy if take time and take rad with fans out as one unit as gibes loads of room and all easy see. Crank pulley bolt witho ut impact gun can be removed with car in 4th gear whith wheels on ground or someone stomping brakes or use old belt trick looped on alternater and crank (yoitube likely habe that) . Would wait for better weather as no fun in rain and increases problems working in unfavorable conditions .

Least alarm sorted, M30 easier and xheaper than early sf subaru remotes .

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